redfjniner

I have not seen them side-by-side, but Yamaha calls both of them "Candy Red" on their respective web pages. See the specifications section on 2017 FZ-09 and 2015 FJ-09. I would expect that they would use different names if they were different shades of red, but I don't know that to be true.Yamaha uses the same name for the same color. Candy red on any bike, weather a cruiser or sport bike is the same color. Look up the number and they will be the same.

(currently in construction) This is a list of tools we need, to work on our FJ-09s and Tracers. I will start from the Manual and what I use. Anyone that has a better tool or knows of ones I didn't cover, please let me know and I will add to this list. I will note as "shop tool", and "bike tool kit". As in shop tool would be a set of metric sockets, bike tool kit would be 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets, etc., and then I will list "helpful tools". I could use some help on all these, so post up suggestions and I will keep this first post up to date. Buy this if you don't have any mechanics tools for $56 at Lowes, then build from there: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-80-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/1000290623 Shop Tools: Metric socket set with these: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22, 25, 27 (1-1/16 SAE). I like deep set 6 point sockets for the smaller ones. Socket wrench: I like 6+" and an offset flex head 12+ inch, both 3/8" drive. Drive extensions: 3" ,6" and 9". Need all to get to the handle bar riser nuts. Metric Allen set and/or hex key sockets that includes a 14mm for front wheel. 2 foot breaker bar: Torque wrench: 10-100 ft. Lbs. min. Phillips screw driver or JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdrivers: I like adjustable handle to allow my weak hands to apply more torque and one to allow change of drive head. Wrenchs: 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17 Bike Tool Kit: Metric sockets: 10, 12, 14, 17, I use the shallow sockets due to size. Put on a bolt with nut. 1-1/16" box/open end wrench for axle nut.(1-1/16 fits tighter than a 27mm) 14 inch breaker bar Metric x 3/8 hex key sockets + 14mm: 6" x 3/8" socket wrench Wrenchs: 10, 12, 12, 17 Helpful Tools: When on the road, you can save $70+ on having a replacement tire installed if you can remove and mount your own tire. If you plan on doing this, its not hard, but you must carry the right tools: 1-1/16" SAE 6 or 12 pt. wrench, 4, 5, 6, 14mm Allen or hex key sockets, For removing and reinstalling engine, you will need two special tools that can be made from flat bar stock. See McGroovy's video:

Am I the only one that doesn't have a snatchy throttle on his FJ? I could hardly ride my FZ-09, it had a snatchy throttle, on off in the corners wanted to send you into on coming traffic. Nada on my FJ. Never been a problem. I'm temped to do this procedure to just check out the numbers and to see if any changes take place, even though there is no need to do so.

Maybe you need to explore different tires?

No trick to getting on the bike. You just lift your right foot over the seat and lean into it. If that is a problem: turn the handlebars to the right and it will lower the seat a little bit and makes it easier to put your foot over the seat. If that doesn't work for you, step on the foot peg and swing your leg over the bag, knee down toe up. I'm only 155# and have had two broken ankles, 5 bypasses and 3 strokes. Just getting on the bike is an accomplishment. Stepping on the foot peg is the best, just don't park where the asphalt is sloping down making the bike lean more. Try to park where the bike sits more upright.

I have 64,000 on my original CCT and it still sounds the same. An early 2015. VIN:JYARN37E3FA000066

One other note regarding Metzler and ‎Pirelli tires: These are the only makes that I have wore the rubber off to the cords (5X) and through the cords once leaving me having to tow my bike home 150 miles. I once had to replace a tire in Kalispel, MT and it was a Metzler. Metzler tires are made by Pirelli. Here is my last Angel ST at 5300 miles: Never had that problem with Dunlops, Bridstones, Avons, or Michelins. I always like the performance of the Angel's and the Metzlers, just dislike the quickness they disappears when about 1mm near the wear bars.

PR-5 is a good choice. I have over 64,000 on my FJ-09 and have run a number of different tires. Here is my position: I have run Michelin PR-1's, 2's, 3's and 4's. At least 4 sets each if I include the FJR and have found that there wasn't much difference in mileage. I could get as little as 6,000 or as much as 9,000 on the FJR rear and 1 or 2,000 more miles on the FJ for each of those different models. The MFR tries to sell you that you will get more miles but it just never panned out for me. I just installed a set of Michelin PR-2's on the FJ-09 as I have found they all work good for me no matter what the sales program says. I like the PR-3 for Fall-Winter-Spring because of the extra sipping. The 2's and 3's are suppose to be the same construction and rubber mix. The roads we ride can have a big effect on your tire wear so it is real hard to make good comparisons. Michelin dropped the PR-2's but put them back into production because (?) they are that good and people wanted them? That's my take. Run you PR-5's and note how you used them, roads etc. then go get a set of PR-2's and save some money. Give us a report after you use them up as reports on partially used tires isn't worth much, in my opinion.

Don't overlook the Michelin Pilot Roads. Get the PR2's and save money. The 2's are equal to the 3's but without added sipping. As good as any tire on the market. Personal preference based on over 400K of ST tire use. But then I'm old.

Sorry to hear that the Sergeant isn't working for you. You certainly have put it to the test. I have had better luck with my butt. Just completed 10,000 miles since April 12th, 2 1/2 months with the longest ride/day 660 miles. Compared to my FJR's Russell DayLong seat which I have over 170K on, I'm very happy with the Sergeant. Some times it just takes miles to get your butt in shape to do the long distance and day after day shape. I would try to rack up 25K before investing in another seat.

I only use the vented jacket when at home. When on a multi day ride I use my Olympia 3 season jacket with lots of sippered vents. 4 vertical on the back, 4 vertical on the front all of which allow for large areas to be opened up and the cover tucked away making the jacket almost as good as a fully vented jacket. BUT, I rarely open it up as when it get over 90, I usually wet down a tea towel and just put it around my neck, letting it drip down my chest and gut. I then zip all the vent closed on the jacket, close the collar and ride. The little bit of air that leaks in caused the evaporative cooling to take place. My problem is that the cooling vest are too cold. Many years and thousands of mile with just the towel.

Lift all day long under the Higdonion cage. The structure goes directly to the engine mounts. The skid plate is the shit to lift elephants on. Just saying. Best to stabilize and secure bike first. Hate to have it fall on you.

No real suggestion as I use all these. Have just acquired over the years. Got this from a friend who had been riding a Harley. Worked okay, Harley luggage, but I didn't like the top lid, if you road off with it unzipped, stuff would disappear. I lost a pair of Alpine star gloves. This was another tail bag that he gave me. It works good, and is a Dowco Iron Rider. Same problem with the top lid. I lost a new S5 Samsung phone. This Tour Master Unit, the biggest of all (24L-26L) I had originally picked up for the FZ-09. When I made the tail rack, I sized the rack for this case and the one above. The Tour Master worked great on the FZ09 placed on the seat, what you are looking to do for the FJ09. Here is pic on the FZ.

I have No Mar's cheap version Cycle Hill tire changer, and a make shift tire balancer from Harbor Freight using my own axle rods, and plastic cones from No Mar. HF's rod was slightly bent. I have done over 50 tire changes for me and friends. Technic is important if you only weigh 150 lbs. If you weigh over 200 lbs, your weight and muscle do most of the work, you don't need Technic..

I'm going to note here that Yamaha has a history of not greasing areas that they can skimp on, like the axles. And are often found with corrosion by the time the tires need replacing. When doing the steering head, you might want to remove the nuts and the washer that they torque against. This washer is to be set in a bed of grease and if Yamaha skimped on the grease, moisture may leak into the bearing and over time the bearings may rust. Same reason you grease the rubber seals on the wheels. Use a waterproof grease.

Just a note here regarding checking and replacing the steering head bearings. First, it is hard for me to think that anyone on the forum has had any problems, outside of that one off that didn't get any that was mfr. wrong. The rest of us can usually check the head bearing by raising the front wheel off the pavement and move the handle bars right and left to feel if there is any resistance, other then desired resistance. If it is notchy going back and forth or you actually feel a clunk, wiggle up and down when you go over a driveway 1" edge, then you either need to replace the bearings and seats, or tighten the stem nuts. Regarding the stem nuts. I maybe wrong on this, but they should have been set properly at the factory, dealer and if not, every owner should either have them checked or check it them self. Once you know the seats are set to the correct spec, you should be able to just check the torque to 13#ft, or 13 ftlbs. I mean, how are the seats going to move after being set correctly? Have you ever removed seats? They don't move easy. Now, I park my bikes in the garage so they don't get rained on all the time, they are in a dry area. Rust isn't usually a problem. Swing arms bearings tend to get rusty and need to be greased every 6-10K, but head bearings as far as I can tell, can go for 75K without being greased. You all know that the steering movement is very short, as compared to wheel bearings and wearing out of the grease shouldn't be a problems. Now if it takes you 10 years to go 30K, you might want to add the check and lube just due to time. I feel a minor wiggle/notch when I go over pavement edges, so I going to check the steering head torque now at 52K. Other words, it all depends on how much and how abusive you are to your bike. Lubing your head bearings with only 7,500 miles on the bike is excessive, but if you have the time and like doing this kind of work, go for it if it makes you happy. I have run into many that over maintain their bikes. And I have run into some that do no maintenance, but buy new bikes every 3-5 years with the old ones only getting to 50-60K miles.

Yeah, I understand the races need to be replaced... looks like that woul be a bit of a job. I will re-evaluate in 2 years. If you replace the bearings, round or roller, you will need to replace the races. Usually it is the races that cause the problems not the balls or rollers. Rust is always a problem, so cover your bike.

If those were flush mounts that stuck out so someone coming at you in the daylight could see them, I may do the same, but I'm concerned that my visibility would be reduced with the flush mounts you have installed. I'm more concerned about my life and what I do to potentially cause it to be at risk. People say they don't see motorcycles. Studies show that people don't look for and don't see motorcycles. These flush mounts just increase the possibility of someone not seeing you. Just concerned about someone making changes to their bike that reduce their visual present while making a turn in front of a car. I know you have thought about this and made your decision, but I wanted you to think about it some more, as friendly advise from an old fart with past experience.

aesthetics

I'm at 51,000 and still have the orig. CCT. I just wear earplugs and don't hear anything.

Can't believe after only 775 miles how loose the chain got. So, I tightened the chain, cleaned and lubed it to. Then the UPS truck came and dropped off this really big box. So I assembled a new RAD Mini electric bicycle:

You have to keep coming back to update your milestones to keep up to date. Good Luck. Note: Only post milestones, leave discussion for discussion threads. Milestones only, other post shall be deleted. (8/21/2019) olddawg: Has a good idea regarding miles posted in between those in the poll; post on this thread, then post your current miles with an edit to your post by adding a date and the new miles. As I have shown below: 4/12/18 - 52,621 m, 4/30/18 - 58,034 m, 6/2/18 - 60,142 m, 7/21/18 - 65,365 m, 10/13/18 - 70,994 m, 11/12/18 - 72,418 m, 7/30/19 - 88,004 m

I'm coming back from Lake Tahoe and get to a small town in CA. MacDoel, stop at a gas station to get directions to the General Store and when I got back on the bike. It wouldn't start. It cranked as though there was no spark, not even a hint of firing. I moved it to the shade and waited. Removed the tank bag and opened the gas cap. Closed it and it started right up. This was the first time for this to happen. Happened a day later, so I did the same with the fuel cap and it started right up. A bit different then the other hard to start threads, so I thought to post it.

I do experience the same. I must have the windscreen down in lowest position and looking over the top so I can see the road in front of me, not just a 1/8 mile away, but the whole corner. I was able to play with this on my FJR and would always lower the windscreen when coming to corners that would go on for a mile or more. I also noticed that I must always put my sun visor up when doing corners, especially when sun is shining and there is a lot of contrast between the shadows and the sun lite sections. Dark sun shades block the clearity of the road surface. Very important when riding fast, to be able to see everything.

I tried to get some basis for comparison and to make it easier to understand why one windscreen works and another doesn't by doing a drawing that would allow us to uniformly measure and then compare. Here it is again: