redfjniner

Yes, I will do the switch. I'm studying the Service manual now. "Removing the Engine", shows 1. Loosen front engine mounting bolts (4 of them), 2. Loosen rear engine mounting bolts. (2 of them). Of course there are all kinds of electrical connections and piping to remove first, as well as Center Stand, exhaust pipes, gas tank, air box, radiator etc. Some of that stuff is already off the bike. It looks like a doable job, and easier than re doing the Head, but I could have done that too. I just have to make sure I have the special tool(s): Pivot shaft wrench, frame spanner socket, and frame mount insert wrench, if in fact these are required.

After a couple months of looking for a machine shop to do the head, with no luck as in no call backs and getting a ridiculous quote from my dealer ($3,000) I went ahead and picked up a FZ09 engine out of Florida with 4K miles on it for $1400. It has one minor little bolt tap issue. The bolt only requires 7.2 ft lbs so I don't think it is going to be a problem. Right side bolt to seal head gasket at water ports.

Knowing that the main bolts that hold the head on are actually inside and these two on the exterior appear to be there to make sure the gasket doesn't leak out the side. I might ask for a picture of the left side and ask how the bottom of that bolt tap blew out. Thanks Skip for you thoughts.

Still looking for an engine, can't find locals to do the head and dealer is unreasonable. Found a engine with minor damage to external head bolt/block that appears as it would still work fine. Here is the location: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284526622433?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142055%26meid%3D67a6fb138472490b8abd11bf1effcbe4%26pid%3D101113%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D274964743689%26itm%3D284526622433%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb%26brand%3DYamaha&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108 I know it is a gamble, but what I can see in the photos and the sellers description, it appears to be a pretty good deal, for one reason, it includes shipping which usually runs $250 more, and that the price most likely reflects the damage, which appears to be acceptable and not effecting the actual structure and running of the engine. For me, it would appear that dropping the partially disassembled engine and inserting another would be the easiest and least amount of work. Maybe you experts could chime in on that. BTW, I did help a fellow FJR owner install a replacement engine in his bike, and that seamed pretty straight forward. Let me know what you think. TIA

Best buy or the years. $60. Must pick up, will not ship. Go for it. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mpo/d/gilroy-fjr1300-side-bags-blue/7412968476.html

I tried to contact Vinnie, No response. BTW, I ran across another 15 FJ09 owner that had the same thing happen to him, but at 114,000 miles. He went the route of a mechanic, and $1100 to redue head with all new valves. I checked with my local dealer and they quoted a head with valves unassembled at around $3000. Yikes. I tried to contact a fellow that only works on motorcycle engine rebuilds but have not received a response. These kind of guys are hard to find in my area, Vancouver, WA.

I'm looking into having the head redone: new valves, seats as needed, etc. Will post what comes of that.

106,000 miles. The way I figure it, at 10 cents a mile, I have really gotten full value out of the bike, and I don't feel that I would be out financially if it was a total loss. But I have added a number of things that are worth keeping so putting a new used engine in it would be smart.

The valve was beat up, jagged around the edges (many holes). I guess you would call that burnt up.

My number 2 valve bit the dust and either I need to redo the head or just install a good used engine. My question is will the bare bones FZ and XSR engines fit and hook us easy? I have leads on all three, XSR, FZ and FJ09 engines. Any thoughts as to which might be better, like one comes with slipper clutch plates and or ?. I have lots of time to look as I will be riding the FJR until the FJ gets fixed. I think that an engine replacement would be the easiest.

Why the hand guards? First thing I took off my FJ. Anyway, nice ride, always nice to see that there still are folks wanting to set a record for themselves. Your efforts surely help produce better products and your report on these products help us. I haven't experienced the heat issue. The FJ is a dream motorcycle for not producing that much heat, but then I come from two 05 FJR1300s. The heat on them can really be bad at just 80 degrees. Most of my 6-800 mile days were done on the FJR and most of that was with leather pants that zipped up and down for their full length, allowing me to open at the calf and hip. I also like to ride with full length tights as when they get wet they stay wet longer and therefore cool longer as long as you can get ventilation. I would use https://ldcomfort.com/ With vents on the outer pants you can allow a tinny opening to let air in and also out. Wet the full length undergarment legs and ride on, nice and cool. Glad you had a good ride. Keep posting this stuff on this site, I know there are other LDRs here. Riding any day long ride in the summer is benefited with a attached water jug and drinking tube. Both my FJ and FJR are fitted with such.

Pictures, we want pictures. For all we know, you are just making all this stuff up. Also a map would be great to follow you. If you have allowed Google to monitor your location, you can get a copy of your daily ride in that account. Then you can share it and we can load it onto Google Maps or even Google Earth. Relive app is also available and really easy to use. You could share the link in your post here. Rever also can track you and make a map. Pictures will bring the ride to life, so we want pictures or it didn't happen.

I'm sorry, typo error or brain fart, it was the exhaust valve. I corrected it in the orig. post.

No. The engine ran great up until it didn't. I only noticed in the past month that I wasn't getting the 48-53 mpg avg. that I had become accustomed to. First noticed when I was only getting 45mpg, then it turned to 42mpg on my trip to Red Lodge. I got a clunking sound at low speed/rpm, like pulling out across the lanes to get into traffic. But no indication going down the road. With #2 having "0" compression, I am really amazed at how well it preformed with only two cylinders working. Saw the pictures of the #2 exhaust valves, they were pretty ragged around the edges. Looked like little pieces came off. No way am I going to try to fix it. Thanks for looking these up. I was already looking at the FJ09 engines noted in the first two links. Have to research as to fitting a XSR engine in the FJ. Don't know if the engine will work with my OEM FJ's electronics. Maybe a Flash could fix that? I'm going to let it sit in the garage for a while. Buying engines in the fall seems to be a better time, and then working on it in the Fall - Winter. Really don't want to think about it now, other than looking. To be honest, I skipped the 75K and 100K valve check. #2 was tight, but who knows why or how that happened. I did do a Yamalube ring and valve shock treatment in the Fall of last year. Maybe that ended up having a negative effect on the valves. Don't know why it would.

After running the engine on two cylinders for a bit, while on a trip to Red Lodge, I became concerned about the engine. So I backtracked to Coeur d' Alene and rented a U Haul and brought it back home. Engine has 106,653 miles and hasn't been any problem. Now #2 intake valve is a mess and 0 compression. Enough spent on that engine, now I need a replacement engine. Looking for used, less than 35k.

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I'm so happy. I like the FJ just the way it is. OEM turn signals, OEM exhaust, OEM tail, but not the windscreen, or the seat, or the drain plug. I'm so happy that I installed electronic cruise control , skid plate, Sargent seat, my custom tail rack, and FJR bags.

Yes, 101,461 US miles, A small increase since I posted those numbers. Looking great in March on a 350 mile ride to Sweet Home and Detroit, OR.

Exactly what I want to hear on a video. I like listening to the engine and gear changes vs. music. Thanks for posting this.

Let me know if you make that trip. I will be in Incline from June 13-18, Sun-Fri. Betoney only indicated Bucks Lake was out of the picture, I'm assuming the three he had noted in his write up are still accessible.

Great ride, I have done them all and look we almost stopped in the exact spot for this picture. Mine was in 2018 coming home from my week in Incline. I usually come over on 89 and either head west on 49 or the Laport road and East on Bucks Lake. The last time I did Bucks Lake I had to take a detour. Will try again this next year. This year I drove down to Incline, thats a first in 20 years. Thanks for the write up, people need to know.

I use Dupont Chain-Saver, wax based chain lube, with Teflon. After only getting 14-17K out of a chain, I started using this stuff and got 24K. Now the question is, did I change the way I took care of my chain, or did this new stuff work better than the other stuff I was using? I think both. After all, it doesn't matter what you put on your chain if you don't also take care of the chain. I thought I was doing both, but I changed anyway and started to make it simple. First I will always wipe down and lube the chain after any ride that is 250m or more. Keep it clean. After wiping it down with a white terry cloth towel (I will take a wash rag size cloth and fold it into quarters, as that will give me 8 wipe downs, which is good for a week only ride. Extra rags can be carried in my top box flat and don't take up any room. I then put the bike on the center stand and start the engine, put in gear and squirt the inside "O" rings for the count of "onethousand one-onethousand two", I repeat on the outside "O" rings and on the chain rollers. I then would wipe the chain with a clean corner of the wipe down rage to get any excess off the chain. Oh yah, the chain I got the 24K out of was a OEM DID chain with a Yamaha parts number noted for the FJ09. I went through two highly rated and expensive chains and only got 17K, went to the cheap DID with Yamaha parts NO. and got 24K, so my conclusion was that it is more important to keep the chain clean and use very little lube often.

Here is the first valve check at 26K, bike is 13 mo old. The next chk was at 64K and I haven't done the 3rd one yet. No records on #2, or I just can't find them. I can't remember how to read the first one either, been too long.

Tires. Whew. I'm coming off a FJR with 220K miles. My conclusion after all that was: I liked Michelins, and preferred the PR-3s for overall riding: wet, dry, and longevity. The FJ is different, but I continue to buy the PR2s and other brands. As you can see in the schedule above, I have run: Roadsmart 2s, PR3s, StonesT30 EVOs, PR4s, PR4 GTs, PR2s, Road5s and Avon Trail Riders. The FJ is different than the FJR. What felt best on the FJR doesn't feel best on the FJ. Now remember, what feels best to me, may not feel good to anyone else, so what I say is worth nothing more than gossip. I like the Avon Trail Riders the best for use in the twisties. I just like the feel, therefore I feel more confidence, therefore safer, more lean with less work, faster. I still have a set of PR2s on the shelf that will be mounted next, only because I have them, but my next purchase will be the Avons.

Last weekend I was riding in Northern California and turned over 100,000 miles. I thought that this might be a good time to share my maintenance records. I have attached two jpg files, open if you can to read them. Today I will take the FJ out to do a Yamalube Ring Free Shock Treatment, just to clean out all the carbon that may have built up over the last 40K miles since my last Valve Check.