bruceintucson

Bruce, do you think it would be possible to extract the 5wt fork oil out of the right leg using a syringe with plastic tubing extending down into the fork leg? At 175lb, this might be an inexpensive solution for me. Also, is the additional 15cc of oil added to both forks 2.5wt?

Discussed this several times and if you weigh under 180 or so this mod costs about $10. Take the right fork leg off (loosen the top nut first...careful of the ABS sensor & ABS disc on the wheel). Unscrew cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil (a Ratio-rite works perfect for this). Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. Snug the cap, slide the right fork back into the triples and snug it with the lower triple pinch bolt. This is a great time to raise the forks to put more weight on the front end. 5-6mm is a good compromise; use a business card with a marking on it so you can get both forks the exact height. Loosen the left top triple pinch bolt & spin the cap out til it's free. Add 15cc of fork oil to each fork leg (you can get a small graduated medicine device used for giving medicine to children for free at Walgreens/CVS, etc.)Tighten each fork cap, tighten the upper & lower pinch bolts (19 ft/lb upper, 17 ft/lb lower), slide fender into place but don't tighten bolts yet, install front wheel & torque axle but not pinch bolt, install brake calipers & torque to spec; install ABS sensor & cover. Put weight back on front wheel & bounce the front end up & down a few times using handlebars but DON'T apply the front brake. Tighten axle pinch bolt 17 ft/lb, tighten fender mounting bolts. Add 1-3 clicks of rebound and go ride. The lighter oil reduces the cheap/overly aggressive compression valving and the 15cc of oil added per for leg greatly reduces dive under braking without affecting overall ride quality. There is plenty of rebound, you don't have to worry. You could probably replace all 450+cc's of 5 wt in the right fork with 2.5 wt and still have plenty of rebound.Check your steering head bearing preload while the front wheel's off the ground. It should fall easily to either side with no drag or binding felt. Most appear to be coming from Yamaha over-tightened which drastically effects handling in a negative way!

Tucson as well. You have the red FJ my wife has seen may times at Tucson Racquet Club? BTW, it's her bike, I still ride a Bumblebee 2003 FZ-01.

Mentioned the VW plug several months ago. They also have one (for the Jetta's IIRC) that takes a standard allen, not a torx.

...and that was in royal currency too x_x .Yamaha pays the Dealer 1.1 hours to do the swap, and as mentioned parts are under $100. So unless the Dealer gets $450+ an hour.......?

Are you getting any error codes on the display or any weird readings or flashing of the TC light? Did you have a flash on the ECU?

From first post http://imgur.com/qVzEurJ Well at [em]least[/em] I now know why my timing access bolt started leaking. :-) They probably didn't put a new one on. Got a new one (not Yamaha OEM, gasp) and changed it myself.

NEGATIVE. They do not have to replace unless its noisy! That's why this is a Technical Service Bulletin. It's NOT a recall! Skip Wrong! The TSB from Yamaha says IF the FJ VIN # is in the # range for replacement, it needs to be replaced, period! I've read the TSB.

You might TELL the asshat Dealer that if your VIN falls in the window, it's supposed to be replaced, period. No "bring it in so we can listen, we'll look at it if it fails, no I'm too lazy to spend 2 minutes on my computer to log-in to Yamaha's Dealer Website......" And Dealers wonder why no one likes or trusts them. Contact Yamaha N. America, turn your Dealer in.

About 10-12 days iirc. End of June order, second week in July install. And no I didn't have to take it in so they could hear it. Input of VIN showed the "recall" for the FJ.

I like the look as well.

WD-40 & a rag, followed by SemiChrome metal polish.

This is something I've never been able to figure out. An OEM oil filter runs less $12.00 on-line. A Bosch 3323 (good filter BTW, but I had one failure on a Bosch on my Van) runs about $8.00 now days. If you chance the oil & filter every 4K miles it comes out to about 1 penny per mile to run the OEM filter! Really? You're quibbling over $20 in 20,000 miles? Don't eat at McDonalds 3 times in the next 3 years and you're money ahead. :-) Geez, why even question it?

Nice! Friggin' Dealers. Pay your mechanics enough so you can get someone who knows a box end wrench from a box cutter! Geez.

Thibk the FJ's noisy, listen to a 1st Gen FZ-1. Noisy as hell, been that way for the last 34K miles....and works fine.

My understanding is the bolt is of a different design to allow more oil to the CCT; at least that's what I was told by the SM at the Dealership that swapped out my CCT.

Got these Amazon pegs for Mary's FJ, she loves them. Just went to Ace Hardware & got stainless Button head bolts & locking nuts to use instead of the supplied pins. Looks good & is very secure.

Ohlin's with hydraulic preload adjuster....[strong]Moto Porn[/strong]! :-)

Must be the one, fits a bunch of VW's. And yes Yamaha's OEM drain plug washer seems to be a perfect fit. BTW, I torqued down to 18 ft/lbs., seems fine.

Yep, 4-6mm seems to be the magic range on the FJ; could probably go up to 8mm without creating oversteer.....IF you adjust your rear shock preload for luggage/passenger or added weight in the rear. Otherwise you get too much rear sag & you're right back where you were before raising the forks. :-)

Don't know, he showed me the bolt but I didn't ask how he got to it. They didn't drop the radiator, know that for sure. Looks like a pretty straight shot taking off the right lower (turn signal) and right middle plastic & using an extension.

Got the new CCT installed. Now all I hear is gear whine from the tranny. Didn't think it was really noisy to begin with, but guess it was. They even washed the bike! :-)

If you've decided to replace the drain plug on your 2015 with a flush mount plug, there a an alternative (better option) to the Mazda plug. The Mazda plug has the O-ring which will eventually wear out/crack & it does seem to distort the Yamaha crush washer. Plus it takes a T45 Torx to R/R.Get a Volkswagen plug, part # N91086801. M14, 1.5 pitch, and takes an 8mm allen head, and there is no built in rubber washer.Think they're $4-5, but sent Mary to get it while I was having the CCT changed, and the guy gave it to her Gratis. :-)