norcal616

I like the Givi one...function over looks is the main goal... compared to stock I love the fact it helps push air away from going over the tank and landing in ones lap to keeping the vast majority of the air to just outside the edge of my legs...it also keeps a good majority of air off the chest area which took me a few days to get used to as the force of the air was part of my "internal speed gauge" ...

When I had stock gearing I used 2nd gear in stop/start traffic...no need to start in 1st gear, who says you gotta start off in 1st gear?... starting off in 2nd gear over 1st gear will be much calmer and allows you to use way less shifting in stop/go traffic...

put the cold weather gear on...Givi windscreen, handguard extension, tail bag to hold rain gear and heat control for heated pants/jacket liner... its gonna be so weird to not feel the wind as it was my speed gauge ?

When are you shifting? I got my shift light set a 9k, most days it's shifted at 7k In fact I don't hardly ever use 1st gear unless I need to activate my LaunchControl, all my stop/starts are in 2nd gear which also eliminates accidentally hitting N when you wanted 2nd Dropping 1T up front is just perfect- cured a lazy lowef rpm feeling when taking off in 2nd gear...now it's feels lively from the get go...

Have you tested the bike, stopped, in neutral gear, with motor revs at 4,500-5000 rpms? In my case, vibrations are still there. Vibration caused by sprocket, would be only when the bike is moving... As someone posted here as well, the vibration seems to come from the core of the motor. you may be chasing a fueling change value in the fuel map...

Interesting... just the fact that the links are riding the rubber collar seems very wrong (is it even intended to do that?). Noticed the indentations on mine too and wondered, but didn't really notice the vibes so I moved on. Even though it's inexpensive, I'm hesitant to replace the front sprocket now at 19,000km as I'd rather replace the sprockets with the chain as a set. There's no other appreciable wear anywhere else.Yes it's ment to ride on the rubber collar more than the inner rollers... the orginal sprocket didn't bother me much with vibrations but I needed to drop 1T on the front sprocket to kick the rpms up a tad when in the lower end of the power band...

you can see the chains links ride on the rubber rather than the inner roller... its hard to see in the picture but the chain marks on the rubber are in a pattern...every other one is more dug in than the other which appear kinda halfway dug into the rubber... the rubber is tough...its like $30 for a new aftermarket sprocket...

yes I am using an aftermarket one...its a reg ole steel front sprocket with no rubber damping thingy... the overall vibrations are still present but it feels "re shaped" to very fine very quick and much smoother vibrations rather than clunky like a bass rhythm that amplifies with more rpm I felt with the OEM sprocket...

Yeeeahh, I'm gonna need you to go ahead and come in on Saturday... Did nobody else catch the reference I was hoping one of the "Bob" screen names would chime in

I honestly believe the cause of the odd vibrations/noises is the front sprocket rubber noise damping thingy... its my belief it changes with the density of the rubber damping from cold to hot...

What is the APS pls? LATER - did a quick search and found some info - thks. MCCruise calls ts the TPS( throttle position sensor) I call it the APS or TPS- depends and NO its has nothing to do with TPS reports on my desk mmmkay?

I discovered the exact same thing after adjusting the APS, the MCCruise was NOT happy! I had to return home and read through the setup instructions again. Live and learn. I know! MCCruise was not happy ?, scared me enough I instantly apologized to my bike like 12 times and promised to not use CruiseControl till its recalibrated...

learned something today: yesterday I adjusted the APS and using CruiseControl for like 2secs today was like not safe by any means...after I had a brain fart few miles down the road I realized the CruiseControl needed to be recalibrated to the new APS location ?... that was not how I wanted to start my weekend... but on the other hand project TTS-10 is nearing a milestone ? what is TTS-10? TwinTurbo S-10 ? just a little ole 408 small block with 2 76mm fidget spinners ?

adjusted the Acceleration Pump...I was so used to the little quirk with quick on/off throttle response since it was originally set 17 and 16...now its 14 and 13... as what the majority have said its really does smooth it out... to me it feels more "old school" feeling like its a full cable throttle system rather than "ride by wire" UPDATE on FRONT SPROCKET after using the new front sprocket the vibrations of the bike in general are smooth and the of the vibrations are very small and rapid in repetition compared to the OEM sprocket the vibrations were bulky/large like a bass system with slower repetitions

actually ordered this safety lanyard kill switch for my FZ-07 since it was my "fun\\track" bike... now its going on the FJ-09...not wired in yet, will do that this weekend, it gets cut into to the power line that feeds the main key switch- without the safety key in the bike cannot run

Eureka!!! now if I wasnt at work right now I would be cracking a cold one bout now...

im thinking If the CruiseControl is not getting a speed signal, its a good possibility the piggyback pin on the ECU got pulled out or separated

to test the CruiseControl tach/speed sign: 1. place bike on center stand 2. retract side stand 3. put bike in N 4. press and hold SET button, turn ignition on and start bike then release SET the light on the cruise control box under the passenger seat should be green followed by a rapid high tone beep- this test is only works for the first 10 secs acter engine start

Page 8-59 of the service manual gives about 5 pages of troubleshooting... the bikes mph speed gets its reading from the rear wheel sensor... TCS light will probably stay on due to the diffrence in speed readings between front and rear wheels... Check the speed wire signal connection at the ECU that the cruise control uses... you can test the cruise control unit to see if it getting a speed signal...

gotta ask... did you or somebody you paid to work on the rear wheel maybe forget a part?? I just wanted to make sure you got all the bits back on like the speed sensor wheel? if thats not there the sensor wont read...

dont pull the starter fuse... some test require the engine to cycle to a reading, thats why they said disconnect the fuel pump... these test are like getting air temp reading or battery voltage for example... the engine does not need to be running to test the rear speed sensor...when you are still under the diag setting toggle to. code 7, make sure bike is in N...the data should read 0... now spin the wheel by hand and see if the numbers go up, the numbers are cumulative till 999... toggle to code 62 is the erase history in fact since I was messing around with all the available sensor inputs I took a few secs to set my throttle cable slack better by watching the sensor numbers move...why didnt I think of this earlier ?

its a signal test you should be able to perform...just spin the wheel by hand I just tried it... just prior to all this the manual says disconnect the fuel pump before using the diagnostic menu since the red start button is used on various test..

According to the service manual, you should be able to test the rear speed sensor via the diagnostic menu... the meter value on the dash should keep going up in number to 999 than reset to 0...the numbers are always cumulative and doesn't reset each time wheel is stopped... this is found under diagnostic 07 when you toggle thru the diagnostic codes...

have you tried clearing the codes and did the codes come back after clearing them?