raggededge

So if you actually reach your finger under the bracket, you can easily push the plug up and loosen it in no time.

I just finished now myself - kinda chili her in NY. Install went really smooth. Test run around the neighborhood was so nice, i initially thought I maybe did something wrong. Clutch pull is butter as well as the shifting, like to this point you can't really notice you hit the next gear - in either direction. I was strangely amazed at what $230 and an hour of your time could do to your FJ. I have the Andreanis as well and have already dropped the congressperson side to 2.5. I'll probably get the upgrade from Matt over the winter as he seems to make the Andreani's sing. Do you have a parts list or the like to do this?

Hey thanks much. That helps. I might just add that to the Farkle list.

Mind getting a profile shot further away?

Has anyone priced a new ECU to have one without the flash?

Did the APS adjustment last week and have a little time riding it. I’d say it’s better in most situations. Still a little herky jerky in 1rst at low speeds. Put on new shoes and angled metal valvestems over the weekend. Metzeler Roadtec 01’s. Wow the bike actually turns so easily now. I had no idea that the flat spots would affect it so much. And today I just got the handlebar recall and state inspection done.

I’ve hit 114 indicates several times with cases on and stock windscreen in low. Haven’t experienced any trouble but I have a feeling it’s because I’m 230 without gear lol. I keep the sucker planted!

Just did this. Haven’t gotten a chance to ride it yet. Values went from #14 -17 closed, 101 open, #15 -18 closed and 101 open. New values #14 -13, 97 & #15 -14, 97 The bolts required a little more loosening than I thought they would before it would move. Also my small gear wrench bit set was the perfect size for the job. Finally, I used a bar clamp in spread to hold the tank up. Worked great. I’ll include some picture. https://imgur.com/a/ouXkHhW

I just wanted to update this. I cut out the resistors because I too figured they were for load balancing. After some time the blinkers have turned very orange and close to red. I expect at some point they will burn out and I’ll have to do this over again. Oh well lesson learned.

I like those lights. I also now know I don’t like a beak. Thanks for the video.

About a week and a half ago I had words with this dumb buck. Thankfully I had slowed way down since I know this is a big crossing point. What made me mad is when it decided to double back! ? https://imgur.com/a/UoQl2MS

If you don’t want to replace it right away, drill a small hole where the crack ends to keep it from splitting further.

[quite] I think its an eBay lever thing. I had ASV's on my SV650 and they were butter smooth both sides. I'm pretty sure the clutch was a shorty anyway haha. At the end of the day, $25 for a set of levers, ya get what ya pay for. Enjoying my $20 amazon levers just fine. https://smile.amazon.com/Clutch-Levers-Yamaha-2015-2017-2016-2017/dp/B019IK6Z7O/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

https://imgur.com/a/KSaUgNR Added an auxiliary fuse block from https://www.fuzeblocks.com. My added lights got bumped on a month ago and drained the battery dead. Then I added an additional 12v outlet with blue LED’s. I wanted the full 10 amps but also switched so I wouldn’t have to worry about parasitic drain. Everything is crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk where appropriate and also in a loom where it passes under the seat bracket. I also wired direct a bit of 8 gauge wire to a winch style quick connect plug. This is for the jump pack I bought. I wanted something more compact than the alligator clamps which would also have a hard time reaching the positive post. Pretty pleased with it all and now it will be easy to tie in another set of driving lights and some accent lights possibly.

Much better but I would still check your compression clearance.

So Patonme is correct. That’s not going to work. Look at the forks and realize the front fender tire will travel as high as the exposed silver fork piston has room to travel. As a guy with a cracked front fender from not taking that clearance into account, your setup is definitely not going to work.

Sorry to be this guy but can you all banter in a different thread? I, and I’m sure many others, are getting notifications for this thread and it’s about the weather and other non related stuff. Please keep this thread for recent mods you have done to your FJ. Thank you.

No problem. Glad it helped. Thanks to the original poster and person who figured this out. I still have to search through McMaster car for a new pin but they’ve worked just fine so far.

What did you use to cover the gold on the forks?

I have read here that the Factory chain spec is tight. Which is why I went with their maximum limit. I had asked the dealer and they said something along the lines of there must be a reason for the tight spec. Now I know they can get stuff wrong ( facotory and dealer) so... I'm kinda trying to float the middle. Any engineers who can weigh in?

Super cleaned it. Put on R&G tank grips, and an EP radiator guard. Noticed the slack in my chain was huge. I'm talking 3"+ of movement. So I fixed that. Not hard at all. I think. Left about a .5" of movement. Hopefully I was measuring correctly. I had the tap measure end against the bottom of the swing arm same place they showed in the service manual. Set it so the center of the chain only moved up a .5". Hopefully that's right. Also of note, the dealer gorilla must have tightened down the axel nut. I actually saw the swing arm spread out after loosening it some. Hopefully no damage was done and the 108 ft lbs will work correctly. Next up, oil change and Aux. socket if I can find it.

Oooo this is the tire I'm leaning to when the stockers wear out. Let us know how they do!

Not the American Bikes. No mandated Anti theft here unfortunately so no transponder. It looks like a YH 46 which translates to a YM 57 for the Hillman keys. I work for a hardware chain and can get the keys easy I just want to get it right the first time.

Looking to make a few extra keys. Can any one confirm that this is YH46 key for our bikes?

The cable could be manipulated off the hook if you knew what you were doing. Also many cycle shops have people coming in looking to replace the d ring strap not know it's not possible. The shops all know it's a stolen helmet. People using longer proper cable locks are most likely going through the chin bar. Finally like I said, I don't leave the helmet on the bike unless I can see it because I have heard too many people tell stories of disgusting people going to the bathroom in someone's helmet. So I just take it with me and deal with it.