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Wiring connection from 2 x 20watt fog light direct into ivory coloured aux connector behind screen


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Hi All

I am in the process of fitting 2 x 20watt flood lights to my trader 900gt 2020. I intend to have them on all the time when the ignition is switched only ( using them as DRL's). I was going to wire them via a relay that was supplied with the kit but to save alot of work runing cables can I just wire in straight from the light fittings directly into the auxiliary plug behind the screen?.

The lights have a combined current rating of 3.3 amps. (This is based on 2 x 20 watts = 40watts ÷ 12 volts = 3.3amps). My question is can the circuit supplying the grey aux plug behind the screen adequate for this current rating?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated

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No, I don’t believe so. The issue here (I think…someone will correct me if this isn’t accurate) is that your math of 3.3A draw is based on continuous running of the lights. It doesn’t take into account what the start-up current requirement will be to fire the lights initially. 

You CAN use the connector behind the screen (which is fused for 2A IIRC) to fire the relay which will then provide battery power to your lamps. Just make sure to wire into the switched power connector and remember that Yamaha doesn’t always power certain circuits until the engine is actually running.  

-Skip

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29 minutes ago, skipperT said:

No, I don’t believe so. The issue here (I think…someone will correct me if this isn’t accurate) is that your math of 3.3A draw is based on continuous running of the lights. It doesn’t take into account what the start-up current requirement will be to fire the lights initially. 

You CAN use the connector behind the screen (which is fused for 2A IIRC) to fire the relay which will then provide battery power to your lamps. Just make sure to wire into the switched power connector and remember that Yamaha doesn’t always power certain circuits until the engine is actually running.  

-Skip

Thanks for your reply & advice. I will wire in via a relay to play it safe. 

Boris

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  • 10 months later...

Has anyone located the Aux power connectors on a 2022 Tracer 9 GT? 

I've taken the screen and panel apart, but the 22 model is a little different and there is no other wiring there.

 

 

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1 hour ago, nomikem said:

Has anyone located the Aux power connectors on a 2022 Tracer 9 GT? 

Yes it's on the left side. YT video provided by another fellow Tracer rider...

 

I used the aux connectors to install my Zumo XT. 

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I used the lower connector to power front running lights that draw approx. 1.2A

Used the blank connector by installing 2.3mm male terminals and wire seals purchased from cycleterminal.com.

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  • 5 months later...

I have a similar question / issue...

 

Can I use the OEM connector under the left side fairing ('22 Tracer GT) to power ClearWater Darlas?

 

They're rated at a "max" of 2 amps.

 

I figure if I run one light per connector, I should be right at the limit. Can anyone give some more feedback regarding powering AUX lights with these connectors?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Screenshot_20230822_175418_DuckDuckGo.jpg

Edited by slownsteady
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2 amps as stated on those lights are just the operating current. Don’t forget that a component can draw more amps initially when it is first powered up and blow a fuse if the amperage exceeds the fuse rating.

the best way is wire it so that the 2A circuit triggers one side of the relay, which then pulls 12v fed directly from the battery. 

Any good relay should have a diode in it, so pay attention to polarity on the coil side. 

-Skip

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Thanks for your feedback Skip! Appreciate it.

 

I ended up using the entire harness from Clear Water to install the Darla lights.

 

I wanted to try to make the installation as minimalist as possible by wiring the lights directly to the AUX connectors, but as you pointed out the rating for the lights was at the max amperage for those circuits with 2amp fuses.

 

The Clear Water harness included everything needed for the installation. I installed the relay on the right side of the instrument cluster brace, and ran the power terminals back to the battery.

 

The most time consuming parts were self imposed: using heat shrink crimps instead of the supplied PosiLock connectors, fishing the wiring under the gas tank, adding loom protection and heat shrink to the harness, and adding the connector for the left side AUX for the AC/on instead of tapping a headlight wire with a PosiLock.

 

Also making sure the wiring didn't impede turning at full lock was a pain.

 

I opted to not connect the horn and highbeam wires (flash on full bright with horn, or turn to full bright with high beams).

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