Borisboyce Posted May 1, 2022 Share Posted May 1, 2022 Hi All I am in the process of fitting 2 x 20watt flood lights to my trader 900gt 2020. I intend to have them on all the time when the ignition is switched only ( using them as DRL's). I was going to wire them via a relay that was supplied with the kit but to save alot of work runing cables can I just wire in straight from the light fittings directly into the auxiliary plug behind the screen?. The lights have a combined current rating of 3.3 amps. (This is based on 2 x 20 watts = 40watts ÷ 12 volts = 3.3amps). My question is can the circuit supplying the grey aux plug behind the screen adequate for this current rating? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted May 1, 2022 Share Posted May 1, 2022 No, I don’t believe so. The issue here (I think…someone will correct me if this isn’t accurate) is that your math of 3.3A draw is based on continuous running of the lights. It doesn’t take into account what the start-up current requirement will be to fire the lights initially. You CAN use the connector behind the screen (which is fused for 2A IIRC) to fire the relay which will then provide battery power to your lamps. Just make sure to wire into the switched power connector and remember that Yamaha doesn’t always power certain circuits until the engine is actually running. -Skip 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borisboyce Posted May 1, 2022 Author Share Posted May 1, 2022 29 minutes ago, skipperT said: No, I don’t believe so. The issue here (I think…someone will correct me if this isn’t accurate) is that your math of 3.3A draw is based on continuous running of the lights. It doesn’t take into account what the start-up current requirement will be to fire the lights initially. You CAN use the connector behind the screen (which is fused for 2A IIRC) to fire the relay which will then provide battery power to your lamps. Just make sure to wire into the switched power connector and remember that Yamaha doesn’t always power certain circuits until the engine is actually running. -Skip Thanks for your reply & advice. I will wire in via a relay to play it safe. Boris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomikem Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 Has anyone located the Aux power connectors on a 2022 Tracer 9 GT? I've taken the screen and panel apart, but the 22 model is a little different and there is no other wiring there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robzilla Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 1 hour ago, nomikem said: Has anyone located the Aux power connectors on a 2022 Tracer 9 GT? Yes it's on the left side. YT video provided by another fellow Tracer rider... I used the aux connectors to install my Zumo XT. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldBikers Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 (edited) I use both and haven't had any issues. Edited March 14, 2023 by OldBikers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ziggy105 Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 I used the lower connector to power front running lights that draw approx. 1.2A Used the blank connector by installing 2.3mm male terminals and wire seals purchased from cycleterminal.com. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomikem Posted March 17, 2023 Share Posted March 17, 2023 thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownsteady Posted August 23, 2023 Share Posted August 23, 2023 (edited) I have a similar question / issue... Can I use the OEM connector under the left side fairing ('22 Tracer GT) to power ClearWater Darlas? They're rated at a "max" of 2 amps. I figure if I run one light per connector, I should be right at the limit. Can anyone give some more feedback regarding powering AUX lights with these connectors? Thanks in advance Edited August 26, 2023 by slownsteady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownsteady Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 I would like to install the lights with this minimal wiring: Lights direct to a pigtail for the OEM accessory input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownsteady Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 But... at a max of 2amps per light, and the circuit rated at 2 amps I think I have to run them to the battery with all of this wiring. Unless I can run each light to a separate accessory port? Anyone have input or advice? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 2 amps as stated on those lights are just the operating current. Don’t forget that a component can draw more amps initially when it is first powered up and blow a fuse if the amperage exceeds the fuse rating. the best way is wire it so that the 2A circuit triggers one side of the relay, which then pulls 12v fed directly from the battery. Any good relay should have a diode in it, so pay attention to polarity on the coil side. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownsteady Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 Thanks for your feedback Skip! Appreciate it. I ended up using the entire harness from Clear Water to install the Darla lights. I wanted to try to make the installation as minimalist as possible by wiring the lights directly to the AUX connectors, but as you pointed out the rating for the lights was at the max amperage for those circuits with 2amp fuses. The Clear Water harness included everything needed for the installation. I installed the relay on the right side of the instrument cluster brace, and ran the power terminals back to the battery. The most time consuming parts were self imposed: using heat shrink crimps instead of the supplied PosiLock connectors, fishing the wiring under the gas tank, adding loom protection and heat shrink to the harness, and adding the connector for the left side AUX for the AC/on instead of tapping a headlight wire with a PosiLock. Also making sure the wiring didn't impede turning at full lock was a pain. I opted to not connect the horn and highbeam wires (flash on full bright with horn, or turn to full bright with high beams). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownsteady Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 Thanks for all the info in this forum. It made this project a lot easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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