docsimple Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 .... When I had finally completed it I head to the shower bitter and covered in brake fluid. Several showers later (and beers) I decided to never do this job again as long as I live....Very inspirational...but at least now you have an awesome story to tell. It will only get better with each time you tell it... add something about developing a nasty rash, or an itch you haven't been able to reach since the incident... etc. If I inspire one person to not do it my work here is done. I do all my own maintenance. I have changed my shock, fork innards, throttle body sync, installed the cruise control and my Higdonion cage. This one was just not worth it. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 fair enough. I retracted that last line but you quoted me faster than I could delete it! :'( No hard feelings? ...except for the engineers that ran those brake lines of course 8D 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adjuster Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 It would be interesting to see if the ABS works BETTER with the firmer lines. The best would be hard lines from point to point, but you have moving suspension parts, and that's impossible. So, the teflon tubes inside the braided lines expand less, and that results in more feel. Had HEL lines before, loved them, but have not looked into the FJ09 until now. I'd have to think that the ABS module would be able to "modulate" the brakes better/faster than stock with less pressure loss across the lines. It's one of the reasons so many passenger cars went to rear disk brakes as ABS became more common. The "drums" could not respond fast enough to really make them effective, so nearly all new brake systems are disk brake based, and only very low end economy cars still have drums for the most part. (Perhaps as parking brakes, but that's about it.) It would be cool if a brake line supplier would take an FJ09, fit up some no drop "training wheels" and then do before and after tests with the stock lines, and then with their lines to see if there is a reduction in stopping distance and control. It would be a great rig to test tires, brake pads and rotors etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 fair enough. I retracted that last line but you quoted me faster than I could delete it! :'( No hard feelings? ...except for the engineers that ran those brake lines of course 8D All good... I take liberty with my sense of humour more often than I should.... and I apologise. How I haven't been fired from my job yet I don't know... I was crabby from lack of sleep. And the internet doesn't carry tone... now back to brake lines.... 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camthelurker Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 As docsimple stated previously, the front lines are a "bear" of a job. Would've been smart to read this thread before I started the work. I also ended up demolishing(cutting) the hard lines underneath the tank just to remove them. I removed the tank and airbox for better access. The rear lines were piece of cake compared to the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eeetea Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I've done mine too, and i fully concur about the additional feel and the less effort on the lever. I used Hel. AVOID. Nothing wrong with the quality of the actual components, but their customer service is shocking. Everything is just chucked in a bag together so the stainless fittings scratch each other in transit, what were nice machined surfaces have scratches and drinks. ThenI had to make up packing pieces were they hadn't fitted holding rubbers to use the line holder clamps/brackets (not sure what you call those? ) The line to the front brakes could do with being 5-10mm (not much) longer, as it looks fully extended when on full lock Hel aren't interested. Years ago was their first customer for TDM900. They made some, and they didn't fit. After three attempts (I gave them The correct measurements) Of friendly chat They gave Up, The lines we're to long, and had to have a big loop off each front caliper. It Was like It Was My fault. The only reason I used them this time is that they were a present from my son Honda SS50, Kawasaki Z200, Honda 400/4, Yamaha TDM900, Yamaha XT660Z Tenere, KTM 990 Adventure, BMW R1200GS, Mr Stevens, and my favourite of all: Yamaha MT-09 Tracer...a bit like FJ-09 only properly named :¬P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter426 Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 One trick I do (on a regular basis) is to push the caliper pistons in all the way with the calipers mounted on the bike. This forces any air bubbles up to the master cylinder and makes the brake line feel more firm. I do this on the front and rear brakes. Just make sure to let them cool down before you touch the calipers or the rotors. I do this on my motocross bikes before every ride weekend. It is like having a power bleeder built in to your bike. Remember to pump the lever/pedal back up before you ride! This also helps to make sure the calipers are sliding smoothly on the pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 25, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted December 25, 2017 One trick I do (on a regular basis) is to push the caliper pistons in all the way with the calipers mounted on the bike. This forces any air bubbles up to the master cylinder and makes the brake line feel more firm.Please explain how this is possible on this bike. On my motocross bike, yes, I do this as the caliper slides on pins, on the FJ there is no movement possible. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucer Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 One trick I do (on a regular basis) is to push the caliper pistons in all the way with the calipers mounted on the bike. This forces any air bubbles up to the master cylinder and makes the brake line feel more firm.It is not advisable to do this on any vehicle with ABS. The old brake fluid in the calipers are below the bleeder so the fluid doesn't come out no matter how you bleed the system. Over time the fluid becomes filled with water and contaminates. Pushing the pistons back into the caliper will force it out up towards the master cylinder, but it will also push the contaminated fluid through the ABS system where it can cause problems. What one should do is to put a hose on the bleeder valve and crack the valve open while pushing the pistons into the caliper. This will force the old fluid, and any trapped air, out of the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider1127 Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 In some bikes this will happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucer Posted December 25, 2017 Share Posted December 25, 2017 Yes, short circuit. The bleeder valve is intended for bleeding air from the system, so it is placed at, or above, the brake line connection to the caliper. Remember that brake fluid (except DOT 5 silicone brake fluid) is hydroscopic and absorbs water. Water lowers the boiling point of the fluid and can cause corrosion of the piston bores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member clint Posted December 26, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 26, 2017 Yes, short circuit. The bleeder valve is intended for bleeding air from the system, so it is placed at, or above, the brake line connection to the caliper. Remember that brake fluid (except DOT 5 silicone brake fluid) is hydroscopic and absorbs water. Water lowers the boiling point of the fluid and can cause corrosion of the piston bores.Brake fluid is hyGroscopic actually. Piedmont of NC '15 FJ-09 '94 GTS-1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter426 Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 I agree it is hard to move the pistons on the FJ vs my motocross bike but it is possible to move the pistons into the calipers. Otherwise you would not be able to mount new pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member micah2074 Posted December 28, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 28, 2017 This little beauty makes it easy to press the pistons in when changing pads. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Quick-Quad-Spreader/dp/B005GLQCKA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1514479939&sr=8-4&keywords=lisle+brake+caliper+tool Let’s go Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider1127 Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 If you need something like that to push in them , something is wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.