bvod Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I ride 2-UP 100% of the time. After 500 miles of 'break-in' on my new 2016 FJ-09, I assumed my brakes would 'bite' harder. (I have 30K+ miles of 'sport' adventure riding on other hardware.) I weigh 185 lbs (without gear) and my passenger weighs 112 lbs (without gear) I assumed I needed a different set of brake pads, but I found the solution in stainless steel lines. (no other changes) The results are pretty dramatic; braking is now linear from 0-99% of lever force. The FJ-09 ABS braking system has a lot of 'line length' (to and from the hydraulic ABS actuator under the seat) and from 0-75% brake lever force, the results are pretty linear. From 75-99% of brake lever force, there isn't much change in braking force. (the rubber portions of the brake lines are expanding at a greater rate than the caliper force increase). Changing the lines involved a bit of surgery, but the results are quite noticeable. I was able to bleed the system in an 'old school' way with no issues. (no special equipment other than clear bleed hose with a hermetic/hydraulic seal over the bleed nipples and just pump and bleed, pump and bleed). If anyone's interested in the details, I'll be happy to share. (I didn't take photos during the surgery, but I can obviously take 'after' pictures. The braided lines were made by Galfer, and the hardware was first class. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted May 14, 2016 Share Posted May 14, 2016 I did the fronts and they were a bit of a bear. Got a pneumatic bleeder from harbor freight though and that was crazy helpful. Would like to get a snazzier master cylinder though.... 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buggy Nate Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Sweet this is always at the top of my to do list on a new bike, I hate spongey brakes. Where'd you pick them up from mate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwader Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 A yes this would be a great upgrade. I didn't see the Fj-09 listed on Galfer. What color did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldenPenguin Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 This is good to know, my only hold-up was if there would be anything weird about bleeding. I got some EBC HH pads that make a difference, but the lever feel is still not responsive enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buggy Nate Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Bleed first. Many find that solves their issues. Of course I usually go to lifetime lines when the stockers near the stated end of life. Mine isn't a bleeding issue, I have owned bikes with these same calipers, master cylinder, but no abs, and have still preferred the feel of braided lines. The abs just adds a extra sponginess that I can't stomach. The only downside as far as I am concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverninja Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Galfer now has a kit for the FJ-09 - it just hasn't made it to their website yet. Five lines, it's about $164 I believe...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 2, 2017 Supporting Member Share Posted April 2, 2017 Galfer Kit for $147.69 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carey Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I ride 2-UP 100% of the time. After 500 miles of 'break-in' on my new 2016 FJ-09, I assumed my brakes would 'bite' harder. (I have 30K+ miles of 'sport' adventure riding on other hardware.) I weigh 185 lbs (without gear) and my passenger weighs 112 lbs (without gear) I assumed I needed a different set of brake pads, but I found the solution in stainless steel lines. (no other changes) The results are pretty dramatic; braking is now linear from 0-99% of lever force. The FJ-09 ABS braking system has a lot of 'line length' (to and from the hydraulic ABS actuator under the seat) and from 0-75% brake lever force, the results are pretty linear. From 75-99% of brake lever force, there isn't much change in braking force. (the rubber portions of the brake lines are expanding at a greater rate than the caliper force increase). Changing the lines involved a bit of surgery, but the results are quite noticeable. I was able to bleed the system in an 'old school' way with no issues. (no special equipment other than clear bleed hose with a hermetic/hydraulic seal over the bleed nipples and just pump and bleed, pump and bleed). If anyone's interested in the details, I'll be happy to share. (I didn't take photos during the surgery, but I can obviously take 'after' pictures. The braided lines were made by Galfer, and the hardware was first class. Did the Galfer lines replace the metal lines between the splitter near the triple clamps and under the gas tank ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlxr Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Any guess what a shop would charge in labor time to switch out the brake lines? I am just too busy to do it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phpaul Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 This is certainly a guess, but I'd estimate 1-2 hours labor at shop rate. $150-$200? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 it would be money well spent. If you have not already bought the new set I recommend going custom and adding a couple inches to the line. Again, a real bear of a job, took me pretty much all day to do the fronts. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJM Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 it would be money well spent. If you have not already bought the new set I recommend going custom and adding a couple inches to the line. Again, a real bear of a job, took me pretty much all day to do the fronts. What is so "bear" about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted April 3, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted April 3, 2017 Any guess what a shop would charge in labor time to switch out the brake lines? I am just too busy to do it myself.Whereas I certainly know and appreciate what it's like to be very busy and need to prioritize one's time, there is also something to be said for DIY projects. The time to take it to a shop (45 minutes each way for me minimum), wait to have the service order written (and they may not install parts you did not buy from them which could be 25% more than on-line), and then have to return if they cannot (as is the norm) complete the installation while you wait; which means 2 round trips. Then there is the worry they the shop did it totally correctly (and brake systems are not an something you want to fail) and did not have some gloried parts washer do the job, and/or screwed up or damaged something else in the process. I have found over the last 40+ years of wrenching on everything from motorcycles to autos, with ultralights and other fixed wing aircraft in the mix, that (if you have the skills, tools, equipment and facility) it is often more time and cost effective to DIY and know it was done right the first time, and also have the satisfaction doing the job yourself that many but not tasks should give you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docsimple Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 it would be money well spent. If you have not already bought the new set I recommend going custom and adding a couple inches to the line. Again, a real bear of a job, took me pretty much all day to do the fronts.What is so "bear" about it?The brake lines run under the gas tank to the ABS sending unit which lies beneath the seat. Removing the brake lines involves squeezing your wrench in to disconnect the lines, then trying to thread the lines which have solid sections out. I finally gave up on threading and just used tin snips to remove the stock lines. Next you thread the new lines back in (not so rough) and tighten the lines to the sending unit (a bit rough). Finally after all this I cycled about 3 bottles of brake fluid through till I could stop seeing bubbles as you are not just filling the lines but also the ABS unit. There may be an easier way but I did not see it. When I had finally completed it I head to the shower bitter and covered in brake fluid. Several showers later (and beers) I decided to never do this job again as long as I live. A year later I still have not installed the rear lines. 2015 Red FJ 09 2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold 2012 DL650 V Strom - sold 2007 FZ6 - sold 1986 FJ600 - sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.