How to Flush FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer Brake Fluid

[nsmiller]

Attention 2015 Owners: It's time to flush your brake fluid. This needs to be done every 2 years regardless of mileage. Thankfully your buddy Science Biker on the YouTube has your back. New DIY video posted below.
 
 
[video src=https://youtu.be/Z9oJU8BceQ8?list=PL3QgLh1ijqjFSxKOq34KbSnGTv4iQX5fc]
 
Edit:
 
Your coolant follows the same schedule (2 years, regardless of mileage)
 
 
[video src=https://youtu.be/lhMAqfr16Bo]

[berryber]

Just one thing I do different is I have the hose connected and vacuum applied before I loosen the nipple. I don't release the vacuum till after I tightened the nipple and removed the hose. Keeps me from dripping any brake fluid. Thanks for taking the time to do the vids. The throttle body sync video was very helpful.

[nsmiller]

Just one thing I do different is I have the hose connected and vacuum applied before I loosen the nipple. I don't release the vacuum till after I tightened the nipple and removed the hose. Keeps me from dripping any brake fluid. Thanks for taking the time to do the vids. The throttle body sync video was very helpful.

That definitely helps prevent mess. I've done it that way in the past on other vehicles. In this case, I just cleaned everything well with brake cleaner when I was done. Thanks for the tips.

[nsmiller]

Remember that coolant follows the same schedule as brake fluid: 2 years regardless of mileage.
 
[video src=https://youtu.be/lhMAqfr16Bo]
 

[2and3cylinders]

Just one thing I do different is I have the hose connected and vacuum applied before I loosen the nipple. I don't release the vacuum till after I tightened the nipple and removed the hose. Keeps me from dripping any brake fluid. Thanks for taking the time to do the vids. The throttle body sync video was very helpful.

+1 on utilizing those 2 procedural steps.  For the second time I've had air somehow work its way into the front brake system.  I bought my 2016 new in July 2016 with 0 miles on it.  By late July I noticed an issue with the front brake where I pull the lever and have very little braking effect until I pulled it immediately after again whereby deceleration force occurred but almost with a servo effect where the response seemed greater than it should have been.  Initially I rode around the problem until on August 1, 2016 I followed the FSM and checked radial and axial run-out of the front brake rotors; both were well within spec. 
 
I continued to ponder the situation and ride around the issue until finally on September 9, 2016 I flushed and bled the front and rear brake systems per the FSM utilizing fresh Valvoline synthetic Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid. I believe I recall finding the left caliper bleed screw seemed to have a spring-loaded ball check valve in it.  I did not remove any brake line or go back to the ABS module, as this was not prescribed in the FSM.  I'm also not sure but I may have replaced both front caliper bleed nipples with new items.  At this point in time my FJ-09 had almost 4,400 miles on it.  BTW, I also thoroughly clean and scrub the brake rotors with 91% isopropyl alcohol and red 3M Scotchbrite pads at a bias to their direction of rotation. 
 
After completing this task, normal* braking force and response was restored albeit with the usual lack of feel, short front brake lever travel and IMO excessive force being required.
 
After not riding since the very unusual warm snaps we had last November and again this January, this last Saturday (both before and after installing new Vesrah RJL front brake pads) I realized there probably was air in the front brake system again!  So out came the vacuum bleeder and fresh Valvoline Syn Dot 3/4.  I do not recall from last September but this time I'd bleed and with the hose still connected to each caliper and under vacuum, I'd check the lever for feel and find I had to gently and slowly "pump" the front brake lever with short strokes (so not to bring the master cylinder piston o-rings into the portion of the bore where nasty hard crud and deposits my be lurking) to achieve a (very) firm lever feel.  After doing this I then had to top off the brake fluid reservoir which had been full before pumping the lever (and after vacuum bleeding).  Once again, after completing this task, normal* braking force and response was restored albeit with the usual lack of feel, short front brake lever travel and IMO excessive force being required.
 
In the last 45 years of wrenching on all forms of vehicles of conveyance and other ABS brake systems I've never experienced the foregoing occurrences.  Can anyone offer an explanation of how air is working its way into the front brake system via:
 
1.  Leaking bleed nipple seats (how and why), and/or
2.  Leaking caliper piston O-rings (ditto), and/or
3.  Leaking banjo bolt threads or crush washers on one or more brake lines (none have ever been loosened since taking           delivery and appear to be adequately tight (ditto)
4.  A defective brake line (pin holes, porosity, leaking fitting crimps)
 
Also, why after vacuum bleeding each caliper and achieving 0 air bubbles is the lever still soft and needs to be pumped up?  The check valve in the left caliper bleed nipple?
 
As a side note, I have not been able to feel a significant improvement of the Vesrah RJL front brake pads over the OEM Advics GG pads, even after bleeding.
 
*Based on testing other FJ and FZ-09s as well as an FZ-07.

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[nsmiller]

Do you ever brake hard enough to actuate your ABS? Have you bled/flushed brake fluid through the ABS by bleeding normally, then going on a short ride to actuate the ABS by stomping as hard as possible on the rear brake, then bleed the rear brake again.
 
I'm wondering if you have air trapped in your ABS pump that works its way into the the rest of the system.

[keithu]

I would also add for those who haven't bled brakes before, put plenty of rags under the reservoir (especially the front) to protect the paint on your tank and other surfaces. Spilled brake fluid will destroy paint very quickly.
 
Also, do this in a clean work area. If you introduce dust or other particulates into the reservoir - even particles too small to see - they will damage seals in the master cylinder.