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Does your rear brake light still work?


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I was doing a bit of maintenance, and noticed that my rear brake light wasn't working. After scratching my head for a few minutes, I traced the problem to the spring which activates the light when the rear brake pedal is pressed. It looks like there is too much slack in the spring, so the tension never activates the light. (I can pull the spring manually and the light works)
 
Anyone seen this before? I suppose I could try to see if I can tighten up the system, but I can't imagine what would have caused this, and I'm not sure how long it has been out of commission.
 
Anyone else seen this?
 
 
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Yea...I just took the spring off of the sensor a few das ago... my problem is the whole sensor unit is mounted on a rubber pad that should should not be there causing the sensor to rock when the spring tries to pull the sensor to activate the brake light, it will work in my drI've way but as soon as I take a trip around the block with it they stay on 24/7 or works when running over a pothole or never goes off, got tired of messing with it every ride... it's a problem I will tackle during my next vacation week the first week of June, that rubber pad is gonna cease to exist soon ?
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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I just spent about an hour fiddling with this, and can't get it to work right. I'm sure I'm just missing something obvious, but when I adjust the assembly so that the spring triggers the back brake light, there is too much travel on the rear brake pedal. If I adjust it so the rear brake pedal feels right, there is too much slack in the spring, and the brake light won't come on.
 
If anyone has any insights into how to do this, I'd love to hear how it should be done.
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@David watch the sensor uint rock on its rubber pad thats on the heel guard, sometimes it stays, some times it rocks back just a tad or not enough... I believe the culprit is that rubber pad between the back of the heel guard and sensor... I have plans to remove it this weekend since my other bike is outta storage...
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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@david watch the sensor uint rock on its rubber pad thats on the heel guard, sometimes it stays, some times it rocks back just a tad or not enough... I believe the culprit is that rubber pad between the back of the heel guard and sensor... I have plans to remove it this weekend since my other bike is outta storage...
Thanks, I'll take a look this weekend, but it is truly frustrating that this was designed this way. All they had to do was provide some way to adjust the length where they put the spring. 
Let me know how it goes when you remove the rubber pad.
 
 
 
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The brake light switch is adjustable. Make sure you're adjusting the switch and not the pedal.
Where is it adjustable, I see the spring connect to the brake pedal and the other end into an assembly, which I assume is a switch for the rear brake. Is there some kind of adjustment on that switch? 
and if so, how does it work?
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Worked like a charm, brake light now works again!
 
Thanks iSteve - much appreciated.
 
 
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  • 2 years later...

I installed an MC Cruise Control. And as you know the brake light is what trips the off switch.

It was then that I realized that my rear brake light was not tripping the CC until I press real hard with my foot. Of course I almost always use the front brake and rear in  unison. And didn't notice the problem until many miles alter.

I can't get a wrench on the nut the holds the rear brake light switch in order to adjust it. And I can't get the heal guard off the bike.

Prior to mounting the CC, one of the mounting screws on the heal guard  worked it's way out and was lost. I then replaced it with a stainless steel item for the hardware store after applying some blue LocTight.

What's the best way to get the Loc Tight to loosen up so that I can remove the heal guard?

Hey, thanks a million, guys.

 

 

Edited by jimster
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20 minutes ago, jimster said:

I installed an MC Cruise Control. And as you know the brake light is what trips the off switch.

It was then that I realized that my rear brake light was not tripping the CC until I press real hard with my foot. Of course I almost always use the front brake and rear in  unison. And didn't notice the problem until many miles alter.

I can't get a wrench on the nut the holds the rear brake light switch in order to adjust it. And I can't get the heal guard off the bike.

Prior to mounting the CC, one of the mounting screws on the heal guard  worked it's way out and was lost. I then replaced it with a stainless steel item for the hardware store after applying some blue LocTight.

What's the best way to get the Loc Tight to loosen up so that I can remove the heal guard?

Hey, thanks a million, guys.

 

 

One thing to look for before adjusting the switch is that the plunger isn't stuck.  When you press down on the pedal, a spring pulls out a plunger from the switch housing, actuating the light.  Road debris, dirt, salt and corrosion can prevent smooth movement of that plunger, spray it down with some WD-40 or electronics parts cleaner and work the plunger in and out for awhile to loosen it up.  Your rear brake switch will more than likely work much better.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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