Oil Filter Union Bolt Help

[electricpanda]

So I decided to take my new FJ for a spin. Missing front wheel sensor and all. I took it easy in B mode and got a nice short ride in. I decided to go ahead and do an oil change while I’m waiting for my wheel sensor to come in. The filter was almost impossible to get off. It took about 4 different tools to finally coax it off with some resistance toward the end. I didn’t have to use the screwdriver method but did put some small dents in it. When screwing the new filter back on, I started to feel resistance before the o ring made contact. I backed it off and the threads on the union bolt are chewed up and not true. So I’ll be ordering that too now.
 
Does anyone know if the union bolt that the filter attaches to unscrews clockwise or counter-clockwise? I’ll be searching for torque specification for it too.
 
Thanks!

[Guest highplainsrider]

You are going to need this part number: 90401-20008-00
 
It should be standard threads. The closest I can come to verify it is by looking at a picture of a union bolt for an FJR.
 

 
Do you think the dealership cross threaded the filter during assembly? Seems like the bike would come with an oil filter already installed. It really sucks that you have to deal with these issues on a new bike. Are there any independent motorcycle mechanics in your area? I would be good piece of mind to have someone help you go over the bike assembly to make sure that it is safe to ride. I hope Yamaha corporate steps up and tries to make things right. Maybe throw a year or two of YES your way.

[betoney]

When screwing the new filter back on, I started to feel resistance before the o ring made contact. I backed it off and the threads on the union bolt are chewed up and not true. So I’ll be ordering that too now. 

 
What do you mean by "union bolt?"
 
For changing the filter I use a 65mm End Cap Oil Wrench
It is a standard direction thread, "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty".
 
 

[Guest highplainsrider]

When screwing the new filter back on, I started to feel resistance before the o ring made contact. I backed it off and the threads on the union bolt are chewed up and not true. So I’ll be ordering that too now. 

 
What do you mean by "union bolt?"
 
For changing the filter I use a 65mm End Cap Oil Wrench
It is a standard direction thread, "lefty-loosey, righty-tighty".
 

He means the bolt that the oil filter screws onto. This is a union type joint that is also threaded into the engine case. Sounds like the threads got trashed so he will need to replace the union bolt. Cost is about $8 and it shouldn't be too difficult to replace. 
 
 
 
 

[betoney]

@highplainsrider You can learn something new every day... I never knew that was a "bolt", I thought it was a machined part of the motor.

[micah2074]

Stuff like this is why I love the little nut on the end of K&N filters. Easy on easy off.

[electricpanda]

You are going to need this part number: 90401-20008-00 
It should be standard threads. The closest I can come to verify it is by looking at a picture of a union bolt for an FJR.
 

 
Do you think the dealership cross threaded the filter during assembly? Seems like the bike would come with an oil filter already installed. It really sucks that you have to deal with these issues on a new bike. Are there any independent motorcycle mechanics in your area? I would be good piece of mind to have someone help you go over the bike assembly to make sure that it is safe to ride. I hope Yamaha corporate steps up and tries to make things right. Maybe throw a year or two of YES your way.

 
 
Thanks a bunch! I found a place last night that has the part and I should have it by Wednesday. I’ll double check the threads of the new bolt to make sure it’s standard “lefty loosy - righty tighty” threads. I’m also going to check the old bolt for threadlocker, seems like it would come with some on there.
 
Yeah, I’m going to be contacting Yamaha for sure. I’m not sure if the dealer is responsible for the oil filter situation, although it’s likely (The filter spun freely after I got some big pliers on it and then about two full turns later it started binding up - damaged threads. I’ve drilled and tapped for many bolts and I know when you get resistance to take it easy and work it back and forth until you get it out/off) It’s no surprise along with my laregely under inflated tires, handlebars situated noticeably to one side, zero play in the clutch lever, rubber band tight chain, front wheel situation, etc.
 
I enjoy doing my own work but this is ridiculous.
 

[electricpanda]

@highplainsrider You can learn something new every day... I never knew that was a "bolt", I thought it was a machined part of the motor.

 
 
I didn’t realize it was a bolt either until I started trying to figure out how I was going to replace it. When I looked at a parts diagram, it listed it as a union bolt. I was surprised too. It made sense to me though, union bolts typically being hollowed out bolts that allow fluid to pass through (typically on master cyclinders, calipers, pumps, etc. My mind was at ease when I realized it was a cheap replaceable part.

[nsmiller]

Get a union bolt from Norm Kern on the FJR forum or facebook groups. I can help you get in touch with him. He will machine off a few thousandths of an inch so off your union bolt so that you can safely run a wide range of aftermarket filters.

[electricpanda]

Good to know about the option of running different filters with that. Thanks 
 
I got the union bolt off. Took a 27mm socket and a breaker bar to remove. I’m estimating it took about 45 ft lbs of force to remove. It is standard lefty - loosey threaded. The threads are damaged on both side of the bolt (see picture). No threadlocker seen on threads. I could probably use a tiny file and clean the threads up okay enough to work, but I’d feel better with a new one.
 
 

 

[nsmiller]

Definitely do not use thread locker.
 
Proper torque on the union bolt is 70 N*m or 51 ft*lbs.
 
You are supposed to lubricate the threads on the side which goes into the engine with engine oil prior to installation per the service manual. The longer side goes into the engine. Shorter side goes into the filter.

[electricpanda]

Definitely do not use thread locker. 
Proper torque on the union bolt is 70 N*m or 51 ft*lbs.
 
You are supposed to lubricate the threads on the side which goes into the engine with engine oil prior to installation per the service manual. The longer side goes into the engine. Shorter side goes into the filter.

 
 
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!

[koth442]

Yikes! Sounds like your bike was assembled on a Friday electripanda haha.

[electricpanda]

Haha, I think it was!
 
update: I received the new union bolt and installed it. Everything is good as new!

[unspecific]

Ok. I'm not alone! Just did my 600 mile oil change on my brand new, purchased with 0 miles, 2019 Tracer, and the exact same thing happened to me. I was barely able to remove it before destroying the oil filter. Luckily, the union bolt came loose and I was able to remove it with filter attached. Used a dremmel and pliers to peel the oil filter away and the threads on the union bolt were destroyed. Ordered a new union bolt and came across this thread while searching for the torque specs. Bad Yamaha!

Edited September 19, 2019 by unspecific