GT Torque spcs

[Old Bob]

Time for new tires for my 2020 Tracer GT. I looked for the torque specs

for the axel, calipers, etc, but only found them for a 2015 FJ-09. 

Are there any updated specs? I question the 108 ft. lb. rear axel and the 31 ft. lb. drain bolt.

 

Thank you for any information .

[betoney]

On 2/12/2021 at 9:22 AM, Old Bob said:

Time for new tires for my 2020 Tracer GT. I looked for the torque specs

for the axel, calipers, etc, but only found them for a 2015 FJ-09. 

Are there any updated specs? I question the 108 ft. lb. rear axel and the 31 ft. lb. drain bolt.

 

Thank you for any information .

I agree that the torque is too high on the rear axle, drain plug and oil filter, there have been numerous posts on this forum as well as FZ/MT09/XSR900 forum about axle bolts, stripping drain pan threads or needing to destroy the oil filter to get it removed.  I can't help you with torque specs as I don't use a torque wrench for those items, I tighten by sense of feel. - I'm sure some will frown on this practice, so use your own discretion. 

If using a torque wrench, as a starting point you could use the recommended factory torque spec and subtract 25% and see how it feels to you.

[skipperT]

The Oil drain plug will take 31 ft lbs no problem as long as you REPLACE THE WASHER every time. 

You’ll get a variety of opinions on this one. But I disagree with the practice of subtracting whatever and not going with the manufacturer torque values. Believe me, Yamaha knows better than me. 

I’ve got 3 main torque wrenches (and 3 older ones i keep for back-up) and if you spend money and get a good one and don’t drop them or abuse otherwise, you will never strip a fastener. 
(unless you read Nm value and set to ft/lbs on accident, BTDT whoops.)

I’m sure there are plenty of people here that disagree, but whatever. I know when I’m done that it’s correct and won’t loosen up. That’s worth my peace of mind. 
 

-Skip

[FrankQC]

12 hours ago, skipperT said:

The Oil drain plug will take 31 ft lbs no problem as long as you REPLACE THE WASHER every time. 

You’ll get a variety of opinions on this one. But I disagree with the practice of subtracting whatever and not going with the manufacturer torque values. Believe me, Yamaha knows better than me. 

I’ve got 3 main torque wrenches (and 3 older ones i keep for back-up) and if you spend money and get a good one and don’t drop them or abuse otherwise, you will never strip a fastener. 
(unless you read Nm value and set to ft/lbs on accident, BTDT whoops.)

I’m sure there are plenty of people here that disagree, but whatever. I know when I’m done that it’s correct and won’t loosen up. That’s worth my peace of mind. 
 

-Skip

Same here. I also found out over the years that torque wrenches calibrations are often all over the place, especially on lower-end models found at big box stores. That *may* explain why some users might have issues with torques. To verify that, I once purchased 3x of the exact same 199$ model at a local Canadian store (that also sells tires...), just to find out none of them were in spec, with over 30% discrepancy between the best and the worst. All 3 went back to the store same day as this was just an exercise.

As for me, I am lucky enough to have a couple high-end Cementex torque wrenches provided by my employer for electrical work. These wrenches gets calibrated yearly, so I know they're spot on. I use them on my bike for all critical torques and I never had any issue following the mfg specs (besides chain slack LOL).

Also, unless specified otherwise, I believe all torques in the manuel are « dry ». Any form of residue (oil, anti-seize, dry loctite powder) on the the threads will act as a lubricant and can greatly reduce threading friction, ending up in applying way too much torque than specified if the threads were dry. Unless there is a « LT » (loctite) sybol besides the fastener in the manual (which acts as lube during threading), I presume the torque spec is dry, so I clean the threads and inspect the bolt for galling first before installation.

As usual, YMMV.. 

[Old Bob]

Thanks everyone for your input. I think I will go to the old “tighten by feel”method then check with a torque wrench using average values from past experience. About 80 ft. lb. rear axel—20 ft. lb. drain bolt.

 

If anything falls off I’ll post it.   😅

[Ride365]

5 minutes ago, Old Bob said:

Thanks everyone for your input. I think I will go to the old “tighten by feel”method then check with a torque wrench using average values from past experience. About 80 ft. lb. rear axel—20 ft. lb. drain bolt.

 

If anything falls off I’ll post it.   😅

That's pretty much the torque settings I use for both, as BOTH are way too damn high IMHO.