kenvieri Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 6 minutes ago, BBB said: I suspect your clutch cable just needs adjusting. Check first that you don’t have the original cable that came with the 2015 Tracer, it was upgraded to version 2, with a smoother bend near the lever. The original was prone to snapping. It reads as if you have viscous drag in the cold gearbox oil, which goes away when the oil warms up. Adjust the cable at the lever end and see if you can alter the symptom. The clutch cable had been replaced for 9 months. Clutch level was always adjust since I got the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Have the valves been adjusted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenvieri Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 4 minutes ago, peteinpa said: Have the valves been adjusted? Never, because just 30k km Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Do some reading here. This bike is showing a disturbing trend of exhaust valves getting too tight LONG before the first required check. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenvieri Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 Yesterday, I clean and lubricate and adjust the clutch cable, clean the clutch switch. The problem still remain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenvieri Posted April 4, 2021 Author Share Posted April 4, 2021 (edited) Here is the situation. And...it happened not only when the engine cold but hot... Edited April 4, 2021 by kenvieri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 So when the rpm dropped in the video above, where was the clutch lever? What about the throttle position? -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenvieri Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 8 hours ago, skipperT said: So when the rpm dropped in the video above, where was the clutch lever? What about the throttle position? -Skip Skip, I keep the clutch level and throttle position "freeze". It means I didn't release the level more and keep holding the throttle in same position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 5 hours ago, kenvieri said: Skip, I keep the clutch level and throttle position "freeze". It means I didn't release the level more and keep holding the throttle in same position. Ok. Then based on the video above and your description of the symptoms i would focus on the clutch. I can’t ride your bike in person but that video clearly shows the RPM and engine sound all of sudden “settle” as you accelerate. Anotherwords the engagement of the clutch instead of being smooth as you disengage clutch lever and apply throttle when accelerating - seems to happen very abruptly. If this is the case I’d take it apart and inspect for damage to the ramps of the slipper mechanism (if equipped) and grooving in the primary gear and basket. The springs could also be weak and not be allowing a smooth engagement. Also check the needle bearings and shaft where it enters the clutch cover for binding. If you decide to tackle this yourself remember that I’m just some wacko on the internet providing you my opinion and free advice. If you disassemble the clutch yourself remember that you can damage the transmission shaft if you improperly remove the staked nut (27 or 30mm socket) with an impact wrench (that retains the primary gear). You can remove pressure plate and clutch plates for inspection without taking the nut off. If you take it in for diagnosis I would demonstrate the problem for a tech before dropping it off so they know what to concentrate on. if you feel that the engagement of the engine when applying throttle and releasing the clutch happens smooth and normally- and that instead what happens is that the engine stumbles and catches, focus on a fueling issue, vacuum leak, bad gas, etc. one final drivetrain check would be to confirm rear axle tightness and also to grab the rear sprocket and chain with your hands and attempt to rotate the rear wheel back and forth. If there is excessive movement then you have worn or damaged rubber absorbers between the rear sprocket and rear wheel. Confirm the nut retaining the front sprocket is still tight and staked to the drive shaft. good luck and keep us posted. Skip 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Still looks like the lean stumble I had, which is worse with your after market pipe. ECU flash will cure all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenvieri Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 Does anyone know can 2017 FJ09's clutch fit for 2015 FJ 09? I would like to change it, and just to make sure about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 8, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted April 8, 2021 1 hour ago, kenvieri said: Does anyone know can 2017 FJ09's clutch fit for 2015 FJ 09? I would like to change it, and just to make sure about that. Yes, the clutch will fit. You can buy a Assist/slipper upgrade. XSR900 Slipper Clutch for FZ-09 : Part Shark 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenvieri Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 3 hours ago, betoney said: Yes, the clutch will fit. You can buy a Assist/slipper upgrade. XSR900 Slipper Clutch for FZ-09 : Part Shark Thank you, one more question, do I need to replace the [Cover, Crankcase 2] from 1RC-15421-01-00 to 1RC-15421-11-00 and Damper 1 B90-15316-00-00 and Cover B90-15492-00-00?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted April 8, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted April 8, 2021 7 hours ago, kenvieri said: Thank you, one more question, do I need to replace the [Cover, Crankcase 2] from 1RC-15421-01-00 to 1RC-15421-11-00 and Damper 1 B90-15316-00-00 and Cover B90-15492-00-00?? When you buy this specific kit, it comes with everything you need for the conversion. There was a thread on here a few years ago on the process and steps to swap the parts. As a note - you do have to swap some of the original clutch plates for this specific conversion. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted April 8, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted April 8, 2021 17 hours ago, kenvieri said: Thank you, one more question, do I need to replace the [Cover, Crankcase 2] from 1RC-15421-01-00 to 1RC-15421-11-00 and Damper 1 B90-15316-00-00 and Cover B90-15492-00-00?? Without me looking those part numbers up, if they are the 'newer' clutch cover and rubber sound damper then the answer is not necessarily. I did the slipper clutch install on my 2015 and kept my original clutch cover. No issues to report. BTW - You'll like the end result if you go ahead with the slipper install. 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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