Buggy Nate

Mucho Gracias Vduboy! I'll make a tool per your description. Did you epoxy the hex shank into the hex nut? When the generator rotor & case a/b timing marks line up, is Cyl #1 at 125 degrees BTDC? I know the FSM talks about that as well as the 240 degree valve time phase delta between cylinders. The FSM did state that on installation the punch mark in the shank of each cam should face up. Is the company down under that makes the shims for you Precision Shims Australia? http://www.precisionshims.com.au/ I emailed Chris there and asked on 7.48 x .020 mm shim kit pricing but do you know offhand their approximate price for a 1.20 ~ 3.50 kit runs? I have checked with APE, Pro-X/Wiseco, K&L, AHL and Hot Cams and they all only have shims in .050 mm increments. Thanks No I didn't epoxy the hex, I just made it a press fit, not a lot of torque on it anyway, yes the 125 degrees BTDC is the magic mark to pull the cams, they are mostly unloaded at that point. (easier to get the cam caps on etc.) And yes the punch marks (oil holes) on the cam are what you align, ignore the lines on the cam sprockets. Yes precision shims is the company. No idea on the cost unfortunately, all I know is the boss sheds a few tears everytime I stock up the workshop on the 12+ sizes of shims we have to carry!!

On the shims, we have a company here in Australia that manufactures shims for us in any sizes we want, not too cheap but they are far better quality than some other aftermarket ones. Not sure how the cct tool does it but when it is inserted into the hex hole after the blanking bolts is removed it locks the tensioner in what ever position you leave it. It only springs out when the Allen screw tool is removed. Even still the fsm as you said required another 1/4 turn of tension. It is one of those things that you will sus out instantly when doing it but takes too long to explain!

Hi mate, correct, the tool I made negates the need to remove the tensioner thus no need to worry about the cct gasket. And yes I reused the cam cover gasket no worries as it was on back order when I checked my valves, it is so cheap though I would have just replaced it anyways. And yes I have about twenty of those t pieces used to lock Honda/Kawasaki and some Yamaha and Suzuki tensioners. They can be a life saver sometimes. Any other questions please ask.

Get the biggest shim kit in the most range of sizes you can get, it'll help with getting the clearances exactly where you want them. As with your other question if you have to ask if the cam chain needs loosening it is really Not a job you should learn on. They are just a little different to a conventional jap motor to do shims on, either way a manual is 100% a must. No offence intended by the way.

...is that a DIY for the tool shown here? Part# 1RC-12228-00 (hexagon wrench). Cool tool, but I assume just a shortened Allen key would work? No it won't, not enough room to spin the allen key, unless you have a 3mm spanner! As soon as you remove the allen key the tensioner springs back out.. and yes to replace the tool pictured.

See if this works, the exposed allen key section is 35mm long, I cut the thread off a generic 8mm flanged headed case bolt, then drilled a three mm hole in the centre. (Lathe helps there) And pressed the allen key into the bolt head.

I did two Mt-09 valve jobs this week at work. Piece of piss to work on these triples! So much nicer than the british lumps I get sometimes... One was the naked mt-09 and the other was my own Mt-09 Tracer. I had stripped mine down to the cams and checked the clearances in 40mins. The customers Mt-09 needed two exhaust shims changed at 25k km's, and mine were all in spec at the same k's. They were only marginally out 0.23mm on one exhaust valve on #2 and #3 cylinders. The cct is a interesting design with a special tool required to retract and reset the tensioner. I made one out of a cut down 3mm allen key pressed into a 10mm hex nut section. It enabled me to remove both cams without the need of removing the cct. The tensioner retains its position whilst the allen key/special tool is inserted and only springs out once the allen key is removed. The manual also called for a extra 1/8 to 1/4 of additional tension once light contact had been made with the guide. The other VERY different point with these motors is the cams are removed at 125 degrees btdc rather than tdc like every other manufacturer. Also the cams sprocket timing marks don't line up with anything of any significance. So again please make sure you have a factory manual to help with these little details.

Question for the guys who have done this mod, have you lost your engine braking? That is one aspect I don't want to lose and even flashed my bike to get more, but I am in desperate need of a lighter clutch as there is something wrong with my left arm lately and it hurts all day especially after being on the clutch for an hour plus in commuting traffic.

Fwiw I'm with Skip on this too, I have been doing this for over 17 years as well, inlets almost always close up, and exhaust almost always loosen, I have had triumphs in for a service well before the valves were due and they have been well over 0.55mm on the exhaust!! And inlets well out of range on the tight side, Leaving the clearances on the tight side (even 0.00mm) was a trick for people trying to get maximum reading on dyno runs... I wouldn't leave v/c's on the loose side as you often get chattering on the bucket from the cam smacking into the bucket instead of gradually pushing it open. I always go for the middle of the range and check regularly. And if you are at the cams you might as well take the time to set them all the same. We use shims that go up in 0.02-0.03 increments. Eg 180, 182, 185, 188, 190. It makes getting the clearances spot on fairly easy. But some sizes only come in 0.05 which sucks.

I will let you know soon, I'll be checking mine at 24k km's. I cant wait until 40k like Yamaha suggests. I see bikes at work all the time that need adjusting before the recommended intervals.And op get yourself a manual mate, it has crucial info like timing marks and cam removal marks and torque setting that might get missed if somebody writs up a how to for you.

They are plastic so they will shear off in a accident rather than have a nice bit of sharp plastic at neck and face height. Sorry just seen the other post saying just this...

I thought the same... You should try pricing it in Oz..!

That's awesome mate, I'll price this up through Yamaha Australia when I get a chance. Cheers.

I am assuming that the XSR900 service manual will give a range for the thickness of the clutch pack hence the varying thickness steels. It is definitely on my to do list though, especially after my re flashing to get more engine braking. It doesn't look like he uses a new clutch cover? That'll save a bit.

QR = quick releaseDuh. sorry was having a blonde moment... I hate abbreviations... my wife talks in them all the time as she is a school teacher. I make her say the full thing afterwards..! Needless to say we don't talk much!

Seriously? Is it QR? If it is, take it off until you need it! QR?? Please explain..

We used to extend dirtbikes throw out arms to do the same thing at the expense of longer travel obviously.. Fwiw that dot should line up with the pointer on the case too when the freeplay is taken up to maximise the leverage effects.

Suzukis are very bad for this, the silly metal drag nuts they use for locknuts drag and gall their way down the axle and I have sometimes had to cut the bastards off. I find a little anti seize works well on the axle threads.

My SuperDuke 990 was my track bike for its first 10,000 miles and now has north of 80,000 miles. I find stuff on magnetic drain plugs all the time but it doesn't mean it prevented damage. I'll stick with my method: chemtrails, copper bracelets, and pyramids. So you think the metal particles would be ok floating around in your oil? Interesting theory. You forgot about healing crystals too by the way... (rofl)

Then you have probably never seen a ktms sump plug after a oil change... Enough metal on them that the scrap metal guy comes around to fill his truck! Can't hurt at all. My own Vw gearbox was saved when the crown wheel let go and it caught the offending tooth before it had a chance to go through the rest of the transmission.

Triumph tiger sump bolt is another good one. But haven't priced one yet. 8mm Allen bolt too. Can't remember if it was magnetic though.

Decided we are going to go the Flashtune route at work and stock up on their kits. I was a bit disappointed to find out my Aussie model MT-09 Tracer is speed limited even though I'd never ride it that fast unless i was dying...! What gear do folks dyno their bikes in when they are speed limited to get a before power figure?

Sweet I am interested too!

I too would like a taller gearing for 6th, but I am sure as shit not going to do it through the final drive, I do way too much first gear traffic crap and couldn't stand a even taller first... really wish first was shorter and sixth taller. The motor can handle it! I think the taller gearing will really help fuel economy though, keep a eye on it for interest sake.

I bet it is the silly returns spring's hook catching your boot, mine was giving me the shits until i grabbed it and twisted it 180 so the hook pointed down instead of up. It was digging in to my soul and locking my foot to the peg.. Intereseting behavior for when you want to put your foot down at traffic lights!