Buggy Nate

Fit up the partshark Xsr slip/assist clutch this arvo, out with the old and in with the new in under an hour and a half including burrito time! The kit didn't come with the three different thickness plates for adjusting the pack thickness but mine was bang on the money even with the old plates (37k) It was very straight forward and no issues at all. I would recommend a map/gas torch for loosening the loctited hub nut. I think partshark will be my go to for Yamaha bits from now on. The clutch is now silly light especially with my hydraulic conversion and has a very good feel. First proper test ride tomorrow!

Haven't done it yet but received my order from part shark. Very quick delivery of my Xsr slipper clutch. Will be buying from them again. A quick looksie through te box and all appears to be there. Will probably fit it up this weekend.

I stuck on a set of up and back risers from fleabay that I seen on here somewhere. I had to re route the throttle cables as they were a tad stretched. I'll likely flip around the stock risers and move them forward a touch to see if I can get the cables back in the stock position.

I think you are giving simple spark plugs too much credit. They are simply there to ignite a mixture. They cannot change the 'mixture'. They can have an effect on engine temperature if the incorrect heat range is used. I would rather stock plugs as I actually think the iridiums don't last as long, as soon as the precious metal is eroded in normal use they tend to wear down very quickly. If there was a standard replacement for them all our customers preferred the standard style.

I had a chance to try out the seat concepts touring seat last night. I rode to the local bike accessories shop for some dirt bike goggles. Only a short ride but what a massive difference! The foam is noticeably taller. I'd put it at a level between low and high settings. When in the high setting it becomes high high! The foam moves a fair bit more than stock and actually compresses when you move around. If you were just into sports riding I would steer away from the touring version. Not saying you can't ride briskly on this but you loose a little of the sharpness of the stock seat. So far I am stoked. See how it goes on a long ride soon hopefully.

For round 2 try not to mount them so far apart, they are probably a bit too far away from the supporting bolts and just swinging like a pendulum. I only just ordered my seat a day before you directly from the supplier and as you know have already got it fitted. If they haven't sorted their shit out just go direct. Cut out the incompetence...

Installed the touring version of the seat concepts seat, all was very straight forward, would have liked it if the waterproof plastic layer was big enough to cover all the foam.. Left the cover in the sun for an hour to heat it up. After I got the correct staples and a new staple gun as mine shet itself about four staples in! It was a 20 minute job. Hopefully take it for a ride soon. It is a little taller than the stock seat which is good too.

Hi @kimmie can you forward me that as well please? Cheers!

@wordsmith, yes they are the ones. I put them directly under the bolt heads..

The Adv Tech bracket is the way to go - I fitted one on my previous Tracer, but the postage is exorbitant, and installing it a real pain as the mounting holes behind the lights in which it's mounted are all but impossible to get at. I have dainty hands, but the backs of them were black and blue after I'd finished! Good move to DIY! But I still cannot work out which bolts under the lights you used to mount the cross-bar! Looking at their bracket I'd say I have used the same bolts at the back, my second photo shows it the best, silver Allen bolt in the middle goes through a small 90 degree bracket that bolts to the cross brace. Which then also bolts to the back straps from the back of the headlight. A ten mm ratchet spanner is your friend here!

They would have been easier to mount further out but I wanted mine tucked in. I liked the adventure tech bracket but the cost to get it to oz and the lack of verticle support made me need to make my own.

No I thought about using them but they are only self tappered into the head light, I slipped a narrow, (maybe ten mm wide strap up behind the honeycomb panel and drilled a small 5mm hole for a Allen bolt into the bracket. It is the silver headed one in the front on view of my bike. The led spots are for the road, I had the knuckle guard lights on the stock hand guards and love the look but like lane splitting better so I mounted them to some Old mx style hand guards. Excuse the shitty paint job..

I'd be very interested to see a pic here, vduboy (or some words if no pic is available), as I'm awaiting my LED spots and am thinking about options of where to/ how to mount them. Thank you... See if these work for you @wordsmithI used the two lower headlight bolts for hangers and made a small strap that bolts up to a small 5mm hole I put in the silly honeycomb plastic panel as additional vertical support. It is very strong. You an see the straps the go to the headlight bolts are on a angle as I wanted them tucked in as much as possible.

I'd be very interested to see a pic here, vduboy (or some words if no pic is available), as I'm awaiting my LED spots and am thinking about options of where to/ how to mount them. Thank you... I'll try and get one up tomorrow for you mate, pm me if I forget...!

Made my fog/spot light bracket and mounted them, just waiting forever for the waterproof switch to turn up so I can finish the install..

Hi kimmie, Can you share with us how Karl did the electrical connection ? As I stated before, the High/Low beam switch signal on the handlebar is coming straight from an unprotected output on the ECU. If anything happens to that line (relay failure, short circuit, ...) the ECU will take the hit and fail (fact). I'd be very interested in knowing how yours is wired up and for how long it has been holding on. Maybe he did find a better and safer way then I did I'm sure that there are a few of them wired up your way as well mate, that is exactly how I would have done it too... Maybe it was just a freak thing.. I won't be playing Guinea pig on it though!

I just received mine too, took a bit to get down under but very nice quality so far, will fit them up when I loctite my handle bar riser studs this weekend.

...you're gonna be stuffed... or take hem apart and fix them. Under an hour if you go nice and easy. I'll probably just do that, unless Yamaha is hiding some nasty metallurgy lies under all that facade... I have another dealer I used to get parts from who I can hit up first. See how we go.

...right on! Just get the gist of the recall right just to make sure you're covered... YMMV, but my interpretation of the recall as follows:.... in addition to the Loctite not applied to the studs (interestingly, the manual doesn't call for that), I think the contact surface of the lower bar holders was painted by mistake, or with too thick a coat (note that the corresponding mating surface on the steering column is machined flat/bare). This makes for a shear layer of paint between the two, that could let go (break inertia) during impact and cause the stud to snap. You might have to remove the holder altogether and gently brush the paint off on a grinder (brush wheel obviously) and remove the paint somehow. My front end is apart and waiting for new springs, so will be removing these bar holders to check. Another option is to just get the recall kit... if they let you have it. I asked my dealer for the parts as I am fully qualified to fit them but they wouldn't give them to me. I'll be stuffed If I am letting someone else work on my bike...

Fit up and bled the magura hymec hydraulic conversion, feels nice in the garage. Not a straight bolt up though. Will need to finish making some brackets for the hand guards tomorrow.

The rubber on the sides of the front sprocket is for noise reduction, it's just that they are about three times the price of a/m nobody bothers with them..

That is good to hear. Might have to do this mod if my new hydraulic clutch doesn't get it light enough for me. Since increasing the engine braking on my re flash I can lock and slide the back end under very hard engine braking. I kinda like it though, not nasty at all.

May be this is what u need https://www.ebay.com/itm/272496336067 Seen them before. I used to have to fit them to hardley ridables when I was an apprentice. Sort of work on a over cam system. I am going hydraulic to see if I that helps my sore arm..

I have all the parts and I am about to install. I have about 100 miles on a friend's XSR and I noticed no less engine braking effect under my normal sporty riding conditions. However the shifting and clutch feel were much smoother. When I get a chance to ride mine I will report back my findings. Awesome thanks mate.

Got the shits with breaking another cable, ordered a magura hydraulic conversion kit from venhill, will post something up when it gets here, I will have to remake the hand guard mount though.