Buggy Nate

Twist as you lift, a slight burst of air nozzle pressure in the spark plug drain hole under the exhaust ports can help too.

You can get a speedo healer which will correct the issue. Some Suzuki ecus let you correct the difference but Yamaha doesn’t.

Tender loving chainlube?

I still run by that system as well, my old 660 tenere had the valves set by me when it had 1000k’s on it and never moved in the 100,000k’s I put on it. Such an awesome bike.

Yeah I’ve had this a fair bit being stuck behind trucks on the freeway. A few things helped as in a better rear shock, with adjustment for more length. Fork upgrade, but the main thing that resolved it was pissing off the stock screen for a shorty. I’ve run this screen with both stock and aftermarket hand guards with no issue. But the bigger screens are nicer in the cold. So use a bit of throttle to get out of there!

And get a new mechanic. They sound like a bunch of muppets.

I have noticed a few Led taillights over the years do this. Unfortunately the cases are usually glued together and are a pain to get apart to repair the joint/led.

The Yamaha xvs650 that had awful shaft drives that I was speaking about.

They were new models when I was working in them, they still make them now in Oz.

I’m offended you think I’d own one of them...! I was a mechanic. The amount of these we had through with buggered shaft drives were astonishing. Yamaha put absolutely bugger all grease in the splines from new too.

It was a 650cc vtwin hardly rideable lookalike. Hideously heavy as well. Even learner approved here because of the terrible power to weight figures.

When you have access to the Ecu you can make any mode the fastest. I kinda agree someone may have modified the wrong map.

Disagree there. Yamaha’s Xvs650 is the worst driveshaft/diff in the world. Constant issues with howling stripped splines etc. Almost impossible to find a second hand shaft drive here.

Just get it repaired, there are specialist wheel repairers who can re roll the rim straight. We have had it done hundreds of times over the years with no issues.

You are forgetting about the nut holding the handlebars.

I ordered a Chinese belly pan for mine on a impulse buy. Pretty sure I seen it here somewhere. Will post pics when it arrives post corona clean. 😂

Only problem with that is that it is no more accurate. Only that the distance is the same between bolt head and the nut. Bolts aren’t a machine finished item and aren’t very accurate. What do you find hard about the standard marks?

They are all straight cut. As are most motorcycle gearboxes. Some other strange anomaly going on...

So much easier to not pull the caliper off the mount, just push it back by hand to get a little room between the pads and pull it off in one piece.

Just making sure you aren’t doing anything silly like taking your hands off the handle bars are you? We used to get so many customers come in and say my bike wobbles when I take my hands off the bars. Id say ‘don’t do that then’.

Yep it is a usable step. No issues.

0.27-0.28 for the exhausts, all the inlets were 0.15mm. To be fair I am pretty anal with filter maintenance and I rather use the mid range and the torque of the motor rather than valve bounce it. Not sure if that makes any difference. I’ll check them again at 60,000km.

Just checked my valves again at 40k km and all are perfect as they were at 20k. Only pisser was the brand new cam cover gasket I had in stock was split so I now need to get another one.

Kawasaki should take a note from Yamaha and put the Er650 motor in adv bike. It is a nice punchy motor.

Where is the disc side wheel spacer? It looks like it is missing in the last photo?