Buggy Nate

Cheers Daz, just bought a set. Cheap as chips and saves me making some.

All this flapping about shims got me paranoid about mine. 🤣 Pulled the cover today and they are still in spec at 50,000 km, although closer to the smaller side. I’m wondering if the angle of the valve/cam cover surface is causing a slight drag on the gauge and making people think they are a little tighter than they are? I suppose you could always insert the gauge from the rear to check. Not doing big k’s anymore sharing the commuting with the hilux. I’ll check them again at 60k and see how they are then.

That’s probably why our freight and postage often costs more than the parts. It cost me over $140 to fill up the hilux last fill. 🤮

For those of us in Australia, there is a good company in Victoria called Precision Shims who manufactures all sizes of shims for all cars and bikes. The old bloke who ran it was awesome and always very helpful. Was able to supply all the odd ball shims even Ducati ones after some people got too happy grinding away. (Don’t get me started on that!) 😂

Put something up in the wanted section here. There’ll be a few sitting in the garage unused from aftermarket systems

Sure does. I have it installed on my own bike.

No worries at all, sorry if I came across as grumpy I just got the rona and feel like shit!😂

True. But the stock shims were undamaged. Reason enough for me to not use them. But crack on and use what you like in your own motor.

I’ve changed thousands of shims in 20 odd years and mostly hot cams were the damaged ones excluding grenaded motors from over revving.

Hot cams shims are definitely subpar. I usually pull them out and bin them due to the noticeable indentation from the valve tip. Stock or pro-x would be my choice.

Fit up a new Michelin Road 6 front to the beast, good timing for the torrential rain we have had in Sydney lately. Initial impressions are good. Continuing my tradition of wearing out fronts before rears too.

#39 on your diagram is the seal. The top bearing and top seal will likely be in the handlebar or frame fiche. But piss off those nasty stock ball bearings and run the aftermarket tapered rollers. Much nicer and they come with new seals.

I’m with Skip, sounds flooded. The added strain of a low battery not spinning over quick enough loads up the plugs even more. A full throttle start with a fully charged battery may be enough to kick it into life. My Mt-09 tracer (fj-09) ran fine with no O2 sensor installed and threw no codes fyi. But if it’s not installed in the exhaust it should be unplugged and not just floating in the wind.

We have the immobilisers here in Oz as well. The wreckers always sell the ecu in a set with all the corresponding locks and receivers. They can be a major pain in the ass otherwise. You will need to follow the procedure to recode the old keys to the new ecu.

If it was me I would be wiring the headlight circuit up via a changeover relay that is triggered by the starter button. So when the bike is cranking headlights are off. Makes starting a little easier. The time spent with key and headlight on is minimal waiting for the fuel pump to prime. I always wire my harnesses up like this when I custom make them. Also saves having to buy a new ECM.

Where do the replacement rubbers get sourced from? The only bug bear I have with it is a 13mm drill bit is not the same angle as a proper counter sink.

And the MAP sensor and Air pressure sensors on some R1’s. I found that one out on a couple customers bikes.

Yep normal contact adhesive works brilliantly and doesn’t harden the gasket like superglue does. I normally clean the cam cover and glue the gasket in before I do the valves and by the time you are done it is ready to go.

I had this same issue a while ago and the front brake switch was sticking on. Same goes for the back one. But double check the sensors for road grime first. They tend to pick up all the iron fillings off the roadway.

What’s the go here mate? I’ve never damaged an input or output shaft with an impact driver? Is it just a matter of some people not breaking the loctite’s hold with heat first?

Is it black smoke (rich) or white smoke (oil)? As you have increased displacement and the vacuum being pulled through the carby you are now massively rich. You will need to go smaller on the jets to compensate. If it is white smoke, some aftermarket valve guide seals are junk. Those motors also commonly cracked heads and sometimes guides. Careful inspection and or crack testing may be in order if all the proper o rings and gaskets are in place.

Yep just some standard circlip pliers will do.

I put some thick as f@{k grease and dried it off really well with brake cleaner. Centred it in the bearing and popped the cover on. First go too… 😂 Don’t be too concerned with the arm position you can take it off the splines to correct the angle.

Some heavy grease can hold it in place whilst manoeuvring the cover on.

Yep as 👆. It probably stems from the days of motors having those god awful champion spark plugs. What an absolute pile of crap they are. I reckon I’ve drilled out about 30 of those bastards. 🤬