keithu

I'm not sure what fasteners you are talking about. Does someone have a pic? I know about the plastic ones but they're easy to remove and reinstall.

From Atlanta to Huntsville the route through Summerville and Mentone is pretty nice. I drove it in a car two years ago and it has some nice curves and scenery. Near The Dragon the Wheels Through Time museum is worth a visit. It's in Maggie's Valley.

Nice pics! Correct, the Moto Morini 3 1/2 was a 350cc v-twin. That motor is a little beauty. Sunbeam was a British company; definitely not something you see every day. Those shaft drive parallel twins were four strokes I think.

Not really. Even fully cranked down they don't quite cinch the bracket solidly. At least, mine didn't.

At 6'3" I look over any screen, even the large V-Stream touring screen I have. But with the larger screen any movement is amplified, plus it won't stay in the raised position when the stock adjusters don't stay tight.

I'm definitely interested to see your light setup.

My comments were based on the stock suspension (already well discussed) plus the lack of leg space. Passenger foot space is limited, and my wife mentioned picking up a fair amount of vibration through the pegs and seat.

The FJ is definitely more comfortable than the FZ6, but it's passenger accommodations aren't the best. There are some people here who do a lot of two-up riding on their FJ/Tracer, but I definitely consider this a solo touring bike. It's not a Yamaha, but I hear the Versys 1000 is better for two-up. Your experience with Corbin is common. Some people like them, some don't. I put a Corbin on my BMW K100RS years ago. I got the seat cheap, and my OEM seat was torn. The Corbin was no better than the OEM BMW seat, comfort wise. I had a custom seat built for my FJ at Mr. Ed's Moto. It was a little more expensive than a Corbin, but it's by far the best mod I've ever done to any motorcycle.

I second the recommendation for Warm n Safe. The Heattroller works really well and allows me to infinitely adjust the temperature. My previous solution was an Aerostich heated vest, and it just had Off, Low, and High. A very minor complaint: the LED on the Heattroller flashes at a varying frequency to show the power level. The LED is distractingly bright if it's mounted in your field of view (mine is on my handlebar). I resolved this by painting a little nail polish over the LED. This dimmed it just enough to still be visible but not annoying. I assume the Heattroller is using PWM to control output, but not sure.

Good tip. I have Hepco-Becker crash bars, not Givi, but I should be able to mount some highway pegs to them.

Also, a stroke of luck: the bolt diameter and thread pitch of the Yamaha windscreen mount is exactly the same as the bolts that came with the Garmin handlebar mount. So I didn't even have to find additional hardware to make it work.

I think my simple GPS mount works because I have the V-Stream windscreen. This includes a metal bracket that creates some extra space under the windscreen. Without that bracket I don't think the handlebar Ram bracket would fit.

The next project will be auxillary lights. I got a pair of these nearly-new PIAA LP550s off Craigslist for $50 ($300+ new). They're pretty large and I'm not sure yet where I will mount them. Lily is skeptical.

I purchased a Garmin 396LMT-S. It's powered with ignition via the Fuzeblock, and I mounted it using the included handlebar bracket and one of the headlight adjuster mounts. I don't think it's supposed to be mounted this way, but it works.

I'm going to be adding a few electrical accessories, so I picked up a Fuzeblocks PDU so I don't have 6-7 wires coming off the battery. This unit is powered by 12AWG wires from the battery, plus a switched feed from one of the accessory leads under the windscreen. So far I've connected my jacket Heattroller and GPS to the unit. The Fuzeblocks unit allows me to select whether accessories are switched with the ignition or always on. I expect most accessories will be switched. I cut out a plastic divider and installed the unit with velcro under the seat mount bracket. In my day job I work on PLCs/industrial controls, so I can't stand sloppy wiring. I bought a cheap ferrule crimper off Amazon to help with clean terminal connections. Damn, my under seat area is dirty.

I've already done a few things to make my FJ into a better touring bike, including: * Hepco-Becker hard saddlebags * National Cycle V-Stream touring windscreen * Warm-n-Safe Heattroller for a heated jacket * Yamaha OEM heated grips * Mr Ed's Moto custom saddle To do list: * Cruise control * Auxillary lights * GPS * Auxillary fuel * Hydration system

This thread will chronicle my project to turn my 2015 FJ-09 into the ultimate long distance riding machine. I am preparing to ride Butt Lite X, the 10th and final running of this six day endurance rally that is like a shorter version of the 11-day Iron Butt Rally. An endurance rally is sort of a scavenger hunt, where riders will probably cover about 1000 miles per day for six straight days riding to places that will only be revealed in the hours before we start. Butt Lite X will take place in early July 2020, with the start/finish in Kansas City and a Midway checkpoint in South Dakota. I agonized over what to name this thread. My first choice was "FJ-09 LD" as in "Long Distance" but it just didn't have the same ring as "FJR-09." The FJR-1300 has become a ride of choice for serious LD-rally competitors, including 2019 Iron Butt Rally winner Wendy Crockett. I can't afford to buy an FJR-1300 right now, so I need to transform my FJ-09 into a great LD bike.

I want that Akira bike.

Congratulations! Sadly (or fortunately?) we have no Awful Waffles in the west, so we can't do Eggsanity here.

Correct. The spacers just slide along with the skewer so the windscreen height is now infinitely variable.

They're parts I just happened to have. They are aluminum and a quick measurement shows: ID: 5mm (3/16") OD: 10mm (3/8") The 5mm ID is an almost perfect fit over the QR skewer shaft, but 6mm would be reasonably close. I wouldn't go much bigger though. The OD is probably less critical.

I had them in my parts bin, but you can buy standoffs/spacers at a hardware or home improvement store.

Thanks for the peer review Piotrek, that's a great point about straining the bracket. I checked it and indeed the skewer was flexing the bracket inwards in a way the stock adjusters wouldn't. So here's Version 2. I added a couple of aluminum standoffs and washers to brace between the two sides of the bracket. I also added fender washers on each outside edge so the skewer has more purchase on the bracket. The spacing for the standoffs and washers is 83mm (3.25").

I simply removed the stock adjusters and passed the skewer through the existing holes. The skewer shaft is just small enough to pass through without drilling or any other permanent mod. The skewer is certainly strong enough to hold the windshield in place by itself.

Yes, for bicycles with quick release skewers, 100mm is the standard front axle width. Rear axles usually vary between 130mm (road) and 135mm (mountain). The 100mm skewer is just right for the FJ-09 windscreen adjuster.