BBB

On 10/23/2021 at 12:47 AM, Skidood said:

I had my ECU done just for this reason, although by 2019 Yamaha had managed to tune out a lot of the twerkiness.  One important  aspect of the flash is that the deactivation of the injectors during deceleration becomes a thing of the past.   Meaning that after the flash, (from what I understand) the injectors are still working during deceleration.   Which gives you a wee little bit of popping in the exhaust, which to me sounds great.   Yamaha deactivates the injectors on decel to keep emissions down, I believe. So generally when you are making very small adjustments  up or down to the throttle while riding, it feels more like a carbureted bike.

I didn't think that was the reason for the decel pops (but could be wrong of course). I thought it was the AIS (air injection system) which is switched off in the flash, so there is no air mixed in on deceleration and so you get a richer mixture going through the hot exhaust.

There’s a threaded rod on the shifter, so you can adjust the pedal height until it makes sense for your feet/boot combination. You shouldn’t need to move it on the splines.

Ordered 👍. Just over $17 postage. Thanks in advance @Clegg78

Is there a UK rate @Clegg78? I could bodge a solution but would like to support an innovative forum member.

On main stand, drain the oil until the level is just below the top of the sight glass. Try to start the bike again.

If it turns over then it’s not the run switch. If it doesn’t fire at all watch the exhaust for any signs of smoke from the exhaust. Check the airbox as @betoneysuggested, there should only be a tiny bit of oil wetting the bottom of the box. If that doesn’t work, remove the plugs from the top by removing the airbox you just stared at, or removing the top bolts on the radiator and tilting it forward. New plugs are probably best if they are contaminated with oil.

Let us know how you are doing.

I can’t find the member map either 🧐

Glad to read that you survived the crash; I sincerely hope you heal well and quickly.

There was a recall on risers some time ago as they could come loose. In your case it probably helped that they came clean off.

A side note on pain meds: most work by peak dose, so be careful if you try the advice above about taking half the number of tablets more regularly. If your bloodstream dose doesn’t get above a certain value you get considerably lower pain relief. Your call of course, but dosage advice is there for a reason.

When I dropped mine on gravel, the tank was laying downhill, with the tyres uphill. I was in a safe position from traffic so I took my helmet and jacket off and calmed down before attempting to raise the bike. It was a really difficult task with the incline and the loose surface; no way I could have done it with full gear on.

17 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Didn't you guys just start the pleasures of ethanol over there?? 

Our standard fuel is going to 10% ethanol, but Super is staying at the 5% it’s been for a long time so that shouldn’t be the problem.

I would check the standard service items like air filter and plugs.

Good decision @dazzler24, I would have replaced it too.

To help others avoid this, was the tool you used, something like a pair of pliers with shaped tips? I find the latch really awkward and bought the tool I’ve just described but haven’t used it yet. It would be good to know if I have to be super cautious in the future.

Tyre plugs, CO2 cylinders for inflation, cable ties in case anything comes loose, spare fuses and a spanner for the mirrors as they come loose regularly. Anything else goes wrong it’s time to call recovery.

20 hours ago, betoney said:

Since when?  I have always had extra keys created for all of my bikes at any local locksmith for a few dollars each. 

I’m guessing, as he said “program” that he’s referring to transponder keys.

As far as I know, there is no way of removing the case from the rack without the key, otherwise they would be easy to steal. Any competent locksmith will be able to open the case for you, so you can then take them off. Once you’re in, just order a new keyset from Givi or take the advice from the locksmith about getting a replacement.

And make sure you store a spare somewhere safe at home in the future 😆

Probolt 🤤........must resist buying more replacements......

7 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

So I bought a Vortex rear sprocket.  Today went to install it, first step removing nuts, first five loosened without too much trouble but the last one the socket slipped on!!!  Have tried a couple of ways of loosening the nut but nope!  All I've done is butchered the nut!!!  I'm at 11,000 miles and about a year old.  Have ordered a new set of nuts and a couple of studs but leaving in 9 days on a long trip.  Rear sprocket is not in bad shape so thinking plan A is to just tighten the 5 nuts (carefully) and worry about it when I get back.  Certainly dont see the one nut coming loose.

Certainly very frustrating - I need to buy a good set of 6 point sockets for the tough nuts.

For future reference, IIRC they are held on with threadlock, so a bit of heat really helps when removing the nuts.

5 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Cut the air intake?  Cut what, exactly?  

I’m guessing, the snorkel inside the airbox. I cut mine down a few years ago when I fitted a K&N filter and can’t honestly say it made a lot of difference, perhaps more induction noise.

One more thought, if you are thinking of a roll top bag, but are put off by the price of Givi stuff. Lomo made bags for canoeing and have now branched out into motorbike stuff. Cheap and fully waterproof. Available on Amazon too.

https://www.lomo.co.uk/acatalog/dry-bag-holdalls-60L.html#SID=83

@petshark, this guy is a road tester so rides a lot and is probably at the minimal end of packing, but offers good tips. See around 12 minutes in for specific packing advice.

Potentially a can vs worms argument starter but...

I’ve never heard of doughnut oil filter magnets and will try one on my next oil change.

Fine looking rear sprocket @petshark 

I’ve done three ride outs with our bike club. We’re all advanced motorcyclist instructors, we use a rear sweeper and use a system where we take it in turns to mark junctions.....and I still don’t enjoy them. I ride to enjoy myself, go where I want, stop when I want etc and although our group rides are safe, they’re all the things I don’t like doing. Lone riding is my preference by far.

I’ve had it a few times and it has been when I haven’t fastened my cuff straps tight enough. Air flows up the sleeves, but not enough for my arms to feel particularly cold, then gets trapped in the jacket and it inflates. Keeping the front vent flaps closed, but opening the rear vents works but it feels cold. The only solution I’ve found is to ensure the jacket is tight at your wrists or wear longer gloves that come over the cuff.

9 hours ago, jthayer09 said:

2021 T9GT doesn't come with a helmet lock so I'm in the market for one,

I'm leaning towards: https://amzn.to/3yYoVsO 

I dig the rubber tubing and 4 digit combination, most locks only have 3. It also looks like it should have enough cable to run through my jacket sleeve and helmet at the same time to lock both to the bike. I could also just buy the lock on its own and spring for a thicker cable.

Of course there's also the idea of buying a security cable and generic rubberized padlock so I'm not fiddling with a combination at night.

Does anyone have suggestions or anecdotes?

I use that type for my helmet and lock the carabiner through the handlebars, towards the centre. I had to file the T bar down a bit to fit my Schuberth helmet ratchet strap though. Not a big deal but worth checking before you set off for the first time. I’ve got no experience of the jacket bit though as I never leave that on the bike.

8 hours ago, mferring said:

MInes a 2019. I measured it exactly using a Motion Pro Graduated funnel.

If you’re worried, ask a friend to slowly tip the bike from upright, onto its side stand while you watch the sight glass. I suspect the level will very quickly drop and you’ve only just filled it above the window.

4 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

What paint did you use for the engine case?

I dropped my bike a few weeks ago making a slow speed U-turn and ended up with identical damage to the case.

Plastidip spray. A pretty good match if you feather the sprayed edges. I only used that because I had it though, laziness and expedience won through and I’m sure there will be better options out there.

You okay from the drop?