BBB

@silvergreen, a CTEK 3.2 as you don’t need the higher amperage versions. I fitted a fused SAE connector to the battery, that sits under the rear seat. Easy connection that way and mine sits this way all winter. You can also connect a tyre inflator directly via the SAE if needed, which could be useful as the accessory connectors are only fused for low current draw.

The Aldi and Lidl versions are often on offer and have a great reputation on car forums I visit.

18 minutes ago, Scoti said:

And you definitely wont see me sitting butt naked  on a large tray of damp sand !!!

I’m genuinely thankful for the forum file-upload limits.

20 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

You do not want to see the equivalent figures in the UK; they would make you weep!

I still have mine and as irresponsible owners throw theirs away they are now rare and desirable. I will sell you one for $700.

[or you could easily live without one 😂]

@andz, on top of the cylinder blocks are small mechanical valves that scavenge gases. They are controlled by an electronic valve and on deceleration extra air is bled into the mix so that unburnt fuel is diluted before it goes through the exhaust. After market exhausts seem to screw up this system so you get pops and bangs from the excess fuel in the hot exhaust. 

ECU flashes often disable the electronic AIS valve to stop this, presumably because you can damage the exhaust over time, but you can also remove the little mechanical parts and replace them with blank-off plates, as well as remove the rubber piping.

It seems to be good practice to do something about the AIS when you fit a higher flow exhaust, even if the supplier claims you don’t have to. My Scorpion slip-on claims to need no changes, but runs better with an ECU flash and I fitted AIS block off plates to finish off the changes.

Welcome @Mirror_Image. Looking forward to reading about your mods.

And being a sensible chap, I carry the best one.

9 hours ago, betoney said:

To make the airbox access even easier I changed out the Phillips screws with hex head fasteners so they come off with a cordless drill and socket. 

Hmmm, nice idea to do when I’m next in that area. 👍🏻

When I hit my SW Motech plate the mounting arms bent a lot, so they must have taken the majority of the force, but the plate deformed as well. IMHO the aluminium plate is a good design, much like the crumple-zone concept in cars, as it is soft enough to absorb the forces away from the oil pan. Of course there is a limit to how much force can be accommodated before more serious damage occurs. 

I use mine for peace of mind on roads and kerbs, not off-roading.

According to this it fits 2018-2019, so implying not 2020

2 minutes ago, Heli ATP said:

Maybe the moderators should consider adding the thumbs down option next to the thumbs up.

This forum is for enthusiasts of the bike we own. It’s a refuge from social media and so the feedback emojis are generally to show appreciation rather than negative judgements.

@Toddtr has a voice on the forum too. As long as he doesn’t exceed the posting guidelines, he can be abrasive if he so chooses. If you don’t like the comments someone posts, my best advice, like in life, is to ignore it rather than responding and feeding the fire. Healthy argument amongst adults is useful though.

Of course, if you think a post is inappropriate then report it and the moderators will look at it.

As @pilninggasmentioned, also check that the pipe on the left side of the airbox gets blanked off when you fit the plates @koth442.

7 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Since the EBC HH pads are more grippy, with everything else being equal the wheel should spin less. Right?

My understanding is that HH pads are more grippy as they generate more friction when hot. They should not affect wheel rotation when cold, in fact a common complaint is that they are less effective on a cold rotor.

I wonder if a seal in the master cylinder has been damaged, when it was bled dry, so it is not releasing pressure when the brake lever returns.

36 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Does that have detents to hold the bits?

Yes, it has a ball bearing in the hole where the bits go in, which holds them very well. The little slider is to reverse the rotation direction. It’s been really useful in tight spots, but obviously low torque only.

20 hours ago, betoney said:

I got this one from Lowes.   Kobalt Mini Ratchet Set   It has really come in handy on several occasions when you have limited access.

I raise you, with my tiny ratchet 😎

Sealey AK6962 Bit Driver Ratchet Micro 1/4" Hex Stainless Steel Small Access

---

Model No: AK6962. Bit Driver Ratchet Micro 1/4" Hex Stainless Steel...

17 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

I have a new set of Galfer lines ready to install, but I’ve been dragging my feet for two years....

edited for accuracy

Pressures vary a lot on here. For me it is between 33-36 on the front, but its simple to try a few different pressures and just see which one suits your requirements and mood. The tip-in feeling does vary with pressure and brand of tyre. I like the Metzeler Roadtech for consistent feel at all angles, but also Pirelli Angels too. 

Having your forks correctly set up for you helps too as then they behave consistently as well.

Welcome to the forum.

17 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Sounds like all the excuse I need to be ordering some more parts...  

Quarantine + Internet access + PayPal has been an expensive trifecta.

You can get nice kits that also tidy up the wiring for you, with a wire-blanking connector. I did mine when I had the tank off. You also have to block off the pipe on the left side of the air filter, which is what the black tube thing is on the left of the link.

AIS Valve Removal kit with Block Off plates Yamaha MT-09 XSR 900 FJ-09 Tracer

---

<p> The AIS Valve Removal kit by SmartMoto will let you remove the AIS...

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

The biggest risk to your brake system IMO (as I've mentioned twice before) is flushing / bleeding by pumping the lever (versus the vacuum or pressure methods, as MityVacs are inexpensive), so that the MC piston with its fragile rubber seals is pushed to the bottom of the bore where nasty crud accumulates which will damage the seals.

I’ve read this a few times before and can never figure it out. I’ve looked at cutaway diagrams of master cylinders and still can’t see how this would work.

How does pumping the lever move the seal to a different position than any normal movement? All pumping does is raise the system pressure when there is air in the circuit; conversely it can’t raise the pressure in a pure liquid.

Why do you think crud accumulates in the bottom of the bore and why doesn’t it simply get pushed away each time you pull the brake lever?

I’m genuinely confused here so would appreciate explanations.

That does sound really odd to let the MC go dry. Fluids simply displace each other so simply adding new fluid would have completely flushed the old stuff out.

In case you’re not doing these (and I haven’t read the full thread), there are two steps that really helped me

- pump the brake lever several times to pressurise the system, before opening the bleed screw and do this every time. It keeps the air bubbles really small and easier to remove.

- after bleeding, cable tie the lever hard to the handlebars overnight

I have a simple, cheap brake flight flash unit from ebay. It sits in between the rear light and the loom wiring. I wired it in with waterproof connectors that I can just clip in and out, as they are not strictly legal in the UK and it would fail the annual test.

The lights flash quickly, then pulse, then stay solidly lit IIRC. The unit was around £10 and keeps the standard lights.

EDIT: even cheaper than I recalled.

UK 12V-24V Flash Strobe Controller Flasher Module for LED Brake Stop Light Lamp

---

When the brakes are applied this unit first goes into a strobe...

10 hours ago, betoney said:

No, not at all.  Just remove a caliper, swap the pads, reinstall the caliper and repeat on the other side.  VERY simple process and both sides can be done in only a few minutes.

Or...about an hour in my case..but still easy and relatively quick.

Suspension first. Enjoy a much better ride in short bursts. Get off and stretch regularly, readjust your wide grin and then do it all again.

A long journey is just a sequence of shorter ones.

I wouldn’t use a silicone spray @WKE002, as it is horrible stuff if you get it on any part of your front brakes. I’m sure it’s low risk, but there are much better things to use instead.

If you can get hold of ACF-50, this is excellent for preventing rust. Next best would be simple grease. The shaft is prone to rust as it’s in a low air flow environment and if it gets humidity in there, it doesn’t dry well. It’s nothing to worry about as it’s just a link between the two slider ends.