BBB

I have the powerblade on my 2015 Tracer. It’s okay, but none of the variations of top screen size (it comes with tall and short), screen angle or screen height really work well. I had to fit one of the little adjustable aerofoils on the top lip to make it acceptable. I was hoping for the “one screen to rule them all”, that would allow me to adjust for seasons and road type (cold motorways or narrow lane summer twisties), but it turns out to be “one screen that doesn’t work well at all”.

To be fair, I don’t have a lot of mileage with it yet, but it’s not a cheap screen. I also think I was too optimistic and the perfect screen doesn’t seem to exist. It does have the advantage of easy adjustability, but that just gives lots of ways to make it worse.

There was a discount voucher on here somewhere if you’re thinking of purchasing.

I love that we have a new verb; to overtighten and cause problems is “to petshark”.

”Read the manual, you don’t want to petshark that!”

”Use your own judgement as the values in the manual are too high, or you’ll petshark that fastener”

😂

47 minutes ago, getpetey said:

So you just spay down all metal components? Does it need to be wiped off?

Yes, just spray from close up, or onto a cloth and wipe on if you want. I blot off some big drips from fixings, as it does leave marks on plastic if you leave them. Stay away from brakes and if you use it on the exhaust (on the header nuts for example), be prepared for smoke for a few minutes after starting the engine.

@maximNikenGT, have you ever used these? Strip each wire, push into the connector from opposite ends then just use a hot air gun. The ends shrink seal, make the connection waterproof and hold the wires. The low temperature solder inside makes the electrical connection. I use a variable temperature hot air gun: low temp to shrink seal, then wack up the temperature for the soldering. I also use a curved blade on the end of the heat gun to protect anything behind. I much prefer them to conventional soldering, where I’ve had problems getting solder to run properly.

The Tracer has always felt like a light bike to me: quick steering, low mass, part hooligan.

Try taking off the windshield, hand guards, luggage racks etc and I think you’ll feel different about the Tracer. I’m always surprised how different the bike feels with the very short screen I use in summer. The temptation is to add weight/screens/satnavs/engine guards/panniers/coffee holders and use the bike for long mileage rides, but the Tracer is equally good at being stripped down and flung around.

My perspective may be skewed as my riding buddies are all into BMWs, Triumph Tigers, FJRs etc, so mine is definitely the lightweight amongst those, but worth trying the above before you decide to sell.

If you raise the front wheel and either remove the calipers or remove the brake pads, the wheel should spin freely. If it is reluctant to spin then I think you’ll have to remove one of the new bearings and swap the spacer around.

8 hours ago, i_ride45 said:

For those of you with short pillions: what is your solution?

Platform boots? 😂

Welcome to the forum @Bob K. I’ve deleted the member pin on the map that you reported so go ahead and make a new one.

7 hours ago, texscottyd said:

I’ll be your tour guide for today...  

Any reason for the crossed brake lines @texscottyd ? They look like they would more naturally fit the clamps if the lines were parallel to each other.

2 hours ago, skipperT said:

...you need to invest in a good set of flush cutters (not nippers or dykes) to trim the ends of those zip ties so they don’t draw blood from the next bit of skin that gets too close.

That’s another tool I’ve just bought, that I didn’t previously know I needed.

That’s a good solution. I’d be tempted to fit cargo tie downs on that bolt, to help lash anything onto the back seat as you’ve lost the rails. It could be a simple loop or something like this (but the right size of course).

I’ve been stopped multiple times in cars and bikes in the UK.

On the bike: engine off, onto side stand, off the bike and helmet off, look contrite. I’ve never had any form of ticket, even when caught doing 60 in a 30 limit. Talk about bikes, accept any lectures given, nod at their wise insights and it has always worked out.

In the car: 32 in a 30, three points and a fine. 37 in a 30, speed awareness course.

I always get done in the car, zero tolerance, but always get let off on the bike. Strange, but I guess it reflects the major volume of police work will be against cars.

30 minutes ago, Heli ATP said:

Looks like we lost member Rovari after the bickering that went on in this thread. Sorry to see him gone, he was a good resource. 

It’s always a shame to lose a forum member, but it was his choice to leave.

Moderators try to keep a level playing field and I hope people think we get it right most of the time. Luckily, the vast majority of people on this forum keep it civil.

9 hours ago, François Brion said:

I found the service manual (yep, the shop manual (681 pages) not the owner manual (128 pages) for the 2019 900 GT somewhere in the numeric world... 228 Mo PDF

It's an US version but I think it won't bother many people 'round here

Will I be thrown away of this site if I put it on a post so that anyone who needs it can download it ?

 

Don’t post it if it is a copyright violation. The website owner could be held responsible if Yamaha decided to pursue it.

@PaulS, a Kriega US20 is a good choice for this. Clips onto the rear seat easily, is waterproof, and you just unclip and take it into work with you. You’re just left with four aluminium hooks that hang at the sides of the seat. It’s my bag of choice when I work commute, but I don’t carry a laptop. I suspect you’d need the laptop in something like a neoprene cover for protection.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kriega-Drypack-US20-Tailpack-Version/dp/B07SQ8BJJZ

I suspect your clutch cable just needs adjusting. Check first that you don’t have the original cable that came with the 2015 Tracer, it was upgraded to version 2, with a smoother bend near the lever. The original was prone to snapping.

It reads as if you have viscous drag in the cold gearbox oil, which goes away when the oil warms up. Adjust the cable at the lever end and see if you can alter the symptom.

Great idea (and nice reflection of you taking the picture).

7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

IMO the aluminum on an authentic SW plate is quite stiff...

Mine’s the authentic version, but a lump hammer cures all. 🔨🔨

@HigHTauR, the plate material is relatively easy to bend. I had to reshape mine after hitting a kerb and found it to be malleable. You should be able to either increase the angle to the base, or remove the top bend that comes back towards the headers. Failing that, you can redrill the mounting holes in the plate and move the entire assembly forward.

On 3/23/2021 at 8:55 PM, petshark said:

I find the Yamaha factory manual hard to navigate but I'm sure that once I've done a few more jobs I will get better at it. It could also be because it's a pdf that the sections seems unlogical to me.

I print out the pages that I use the most and keep them in a file, in plastic wallets so I can use them in the garage with dirty fingers.

I use gear oil. Simple, cheap, works well. I don’t get fling onto the wheel, but I do wipe off the excess after oiling.

The only thing I don’t like about it is the smell.

 Review in English

YAMAHA TRACER 9 (2021 - on) Review | MCN

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Read our expert, in-depth Yamaha Tracer 9 review - a fine sports-tourer that...

2 hours ago, i_ride45 said:

Is there a preferred way to run power to this outlet?

The original outlet already has switched power, so just swap the wiring over. If you’re fitting an extra socket then use the accessory wires under the screen, which you can see on the first page of this thread. 

Sorry @mferring, I don’t recall. It’s an awkward angle, hence the need for the swivel joint. Try with what you’ve got, see if you can get decent purchase, angling the bars to get best access. It’s not a huge movement anyway, so I ended up fitting bar-back risers to improve my seating/wrist position. My suggestion would be to fit the risers and then judge whether it is worth the additional hassle of turning the lower bar holders.

This is from the 2015 Tracer manual, so it’s probably relevant, but use your own judgement.

As far as I recall, the lower handlebar holders have shaped indents on their sides, which look a bit like truncated arrow heads. If they point forward, the holders are in the forward position, and vice-versa. As for access, I use a swivel head on a long extension bar to get the nuts from below.