BBB

11 hours ago, Buggy Nate said:

Fit up some big metal gear discs with some spacers I made up on my 100 year old lathe. Still goes alright! Waiting on pads and bolts now.

Those are excellent @Buggy Nate. You could easily sell them to interested folks.

Welcome to the forum @Hogie. It’s probably worth getting something like a CTEK charger for maintaining your battery during the lockdown. Mine has a permanent, fused connector to the battery, that stays under the rear seat. That makes it easy to connect up when you need it.

3 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Just need to shake off/fix my recurring (most of 2020!) Carpel Tunnel issues so that I can actually enjoy my ride now moving  into 2021.

Have you tried sleeping with a wrist brace @dazzler24? It helps mine a lot.

Welcome to the forum @Gary tracer.

If the red wire requires a switched live feed, then the best source are the auxiliary connections behind the windscreen.

24 minutes ago, Howton said:

Might not be a bad idea to switch the bolts with a higher grade.

I did this, switched to marine grade stainless fixings for the riser and reused the OEM for the lower attachment.

I chased the details of the pillion box through Yamaha UK and up to Yamaha corporate and was just given the runaround. Eventually they linked me to a government purchase website that stated the box was only available to purchase by emergency services. They then stopped answering my emails 😁

I was trying to find out who made the box.

This might be helpful, but read the whole thread just in case.

I have those QC versions and they’re great 👍🏻 

32 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

I’ll typically pause the music when I’m riding with any enthusiasm, since I also find it to be a bit distracting when I need to be 100% focused.    But even on the boring straight-line droning over the last couple of weeks, I haven’t missed the music at all. 

I do like the audio alerts from Waze, so I will still go ahead and swap the Sena system over.   But I’ll likely keep the music off by default moving forward... 

I’m the same: technical/high concentration bits are without music, but I like pootling around with tunes as well. I have a remote control on the left grip that makes muting and track bumping very easy.

24 minutes ago, Larz said:

might be the wheel; seems unlikely 2 different brands of tires would do the same thing,eh. The beaky bill is slighlty flexible, was thinking it might be flexing at speed causing the bounce. Guess I'll pull it and lay the question to rest.

It would be very useful if you could feedback on your findings. 

Welcome to the forum @MSandikci. When you get time, post your location on our member map.

EDIT. Thanks, you’ve done it already 👍🏻 

I have sometimes found an inaccessible fastener, where a torque wrench is just too bulky to get in there. I've just bought this to help in that circumstance and thought I'd share the idea.

You may know this already. You may hate torque wrenches. You may already have calibrated knuckles...........but I like collecting tools 😁

3 hours ago, yamtracergaz said:

I have re-purposed a blood pressure cuff to aid putting my wheels back on,it's great just place it on the ground with the wheel on top and pump it up[like a very small cushion]pump it until the spindle hole lines up,really helps as you have the spare hand needed to put in the caliper hanger properly and the spacers don't go flying across the garage,really good for the front also because you don't want the wheel dangling in one hand whilst trying not to cross thread the spindle in the fork,then a release valve to let it go flat and put it in your drawer,love it.

Great idea. They use the same approach for hanging doors.

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4 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

My SRC skidpad arrived today, haven't had time to install it yet.  Looking at where the brackets fasten to engine bolts looks like the insertion is to reuse the OEM bolts.  Is that what everyone has been doing?  Any issues?  Everything will go together with medium thread locker.  I got the powder coated black one, mounts are aluminum so may paint them with flat black engine paint.  Quality of the SRC part is fantastic, everything about it is very well done.  Will know more in a day or two about fitment but based on the quality of the parts do not expect any issues.  More than an eBay part but worth the extra to me.  Shipping was super fast as well.  

Reusing OEM bolts is fine, it’s not a high torque application. I don’t even use thread locker on the engine bolts, but do on the insertion into the plate itself as that is where you get more vibration (pendulum effect). Mine is a different design (SW  Motech) but the principle is the same.

@WKE002, let’s split your example into two pieces.

After you hit a bump and your front wheel is in the air, you will feel steering wobble regardless of front suspension settings, because the forks are fully extended when all the weight is off the wheel. There’s no setting that will change this, but relaxing your arms so you don’t have a death grip on the bars will help and some people fit a steering damper which may also help. I’m presuming that you don’t do this often, so relaxed arms is my best advice.

The reason your front wheel lifts when travelling over a series of bumps, when travelling fast, is that your forks have not been able to cope with the frequency of the impacts. They’ve happened too quickly for the forks to react in time. The most important factor is the compression damping. If this is set too high, the fork cannot shorten quickly enough in response to the bump, acts as if it is quite rigid and the front wheel gets lifted off the road surface. To help, you need less compression damping. Try reducing the damping by a few clicks and ride the same road again, at the same speed. You can always adjust it back again if you don’t like the change.

The downfall of less compression damping, and damping in general, is that the forks can feel more bouncy, so it’s a trade off.

3 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

Am also going to need to get me a waterproof Garmin Zumo unit. What does everyone use these days for waterproof GPS? 

Not Garmin, I use the TomTom Rider 400. There are updated models now, but it's waterproof, easy clip on, rotatable and I have another mount for in the car so I can use the same unit there too. Free speed camera updates is essential 😉

I use the winding road facility a lot, to discover new routes and also really appreciate the average speed camera function (which is the curse of UK roads).

Modular helmets are great aren't they! And integrated comms are so much neater. I have the Schuberth C3 and a built-in Sena unit and use them like you: music, satnav and occasional calls. It's so good to be able to flip the visor up when needed.

I did like your anecdote about the persuasion powers of attractive sales assistants 🤣

2SCL is just the code for 2017 Tracer.  Yours is “deep purplish blue metallic” by the look of it.

Great trip report @Salish900. I find that riding is a great way for getting away from the stress of life.

That SRC bash plate looks really nice.

On the welding/brazing, I have no experience but I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work. If I were doing it I would put a patch on the inside, with a bolt through it, so the welding from the outside has something to form around, just in case you don't get good penetration with the welds. The sump pan looks like it is made of a very brittle alloy.

@Pietje, have a search for replacement grips. You may find some that slip over the original one, like grip puppies do.

EDIT: link added

https://grip-puppy.com/fitting-instructions

1 hour ago, andz said:

I don't remember if I already replied to this topic and I wasn't going to troll through 18 pages to check.

If you're ever curious in the future: click on your forum name, then click on "see their activity" and you can see what drivel/gems you've ever posted.

On 11/5/2020 at 4:17 PM, betoney said:

From the new MT09 product description:

"New Intake System
The new intake system has been designed to suit the new engine and provides linear response when the rider opens and closes the throttle. The three intake ducts also contribute to the excellent engine sound at midrange and high rpm. These ducts are designed with different cross sections and lengths so that the intake sounds they produce individually resonate harmoniously at varying wavelength ranges. At the same time, the sound pressure has also been tuned to create a pleasing sound in the mid- and high-rpm range. The result is an air cleaner box that achieves both good intake efficiency and a pleasing sound that enhances the feeling of acceleration."

Could this be a revised air intake system or modified internal air box velocity stack lengths?

It reads very much like the latter @betoney. That design can then be translated to other models as it’s not dependent on bodywork changes. 

17 hours ago, Stew said:

ooooft, I was in attack mode

I’m all for riding bikes quickly and enjoying them. I don’t use mine for commuting so my riding is heavily biased towards enjoyment. But, I also know that the times I’ve been too far in the flow, attack mode as you put it, I’ve ended up not leaving any margin for error, shite on the roads or eejits around me. It’s the closest I’ve come to total wipeout when I met a car on my side of the road and I had nowhere to go as I was riding too fast with no visibility of the road ahead. My error.

I’m not saying that your making the same error @Stew, I’ve not seen you ride. Enjoy your rides, but leave a bit of margin for the unknown. Personally I hate leaves on the road and much prefer clearer winter tarmac.

A 3A switch will be fine. The fuse for the circuit is 2 A, which will also be fine.