BBB

After using my phone and google maps with the cosmo mount for a while, and getting annoyed with the vibrating screen and lack of speed camera alerts I bit the bullet on an Easter deal and bought a TomTom Rider 400 satnav. All the ebay wiring connectors I had diligently collected didn't fit any of the spare terminals under the windscreen so I pulled the spades out of the ivory connector and soldered/heat shrink wrapped the TomTom wires on and ran them back the mount. I used a ram bolt mount that replaces one of the handlebar bolts. And the TomTom mount attaches with a short Ram arm. No shaking at all now. And finally, the satnav mounted. It can twist in the mount to portrait view and talks to me via my bluetooth headset.

Threadlock those allen bolts, they are a very soft alloy and back out really quickly. I lost one after checking it before setting off on a 30 minute ride!

What is the red box in the lid of your Givi case?

My UK bike is in miles and miles per hour and also celcius.

Search on here show how to get into diagnostic mode I know this works on my bike. May or may not work on yours. My bike was flashed that may or may not matter. - turn the ignition key off and the engine run switch off - hold down the 'tcs' and 'reset' buttons - turn the ignition key on, keeping both buttons held down - after about 8 seconds, the display will change and say 'ecu' - press and hold down both buttons again display will change and say 'diag' - press and hold down both buttons again.....Walla your in the screen. You can use the "tcs" & "reset" buttons for up and down in the menu.

Found this for super tenere, may be the same? I apologize I'm replying to this thread that's a bit old but it kept coming up in google searches and I wanted to provide some updated info. On the yamaha R6 and R1 you can switch from C to F and vice versa by going into diagnostics mode, and changing the value of D62. 00 = no temp display, 01 = C and 02 = F. Instructions (might be a bit different for your bike): 1. Turn the key to the on position. If the clock is displayed in the distance/clock area, press the “SELECT” button for more than a second to change it over to the distance display. 2. Holding down both the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for more than 2 seconds changes the speed display from “mph” to “km/h”. The dash must be set to km/h to switch the coolant from F to C and to mph for C to F. 3. Turn the key off to store the new setting in memory, though a disconnected battery nulls it and brings the display back to the original display. To switch the water temperature display units: 1. Set the engine kill switch to OFF/STOP. 2. Hold the “RESET” and “SELECT” buttons down then turn the key to the on position (keep holding the reset and select buttons until “Co” appears in the left of the display area instead of the distance and time). 3. Press the “SELECT” button. The display changes to “dIAG “. 4. Press both the “RESET” and “SELECT” buttons at the same time. “d01: xx” appears in the display area. (your TPS value is displayed in “xx”, it is unimportant for this change.) 5. Pressing the “RESET” button 2 times displays “d62: xx”. The “xx” in “d62: xx” indicates which thermometric scale to display, Celsius or Fahrenheit. “00” = No display “01” = Celsius (°C) “02” = Fahrenheit (°F) To change the display, operate the engine kill switch from “OFF” to “ON”. The thermometric indication changes in order of “00”, “01”, “02”, and back to “00” and so on (each time the kill switch it turned off and on again). 5. When the desired setting appears, turn the key to the off position to store the new setting.

Paraffin in a trigger spray. Dirt cheap to buy at 5 litre scale, a great all round solvent and you can use any trigger spray bottle that is made of high density polyethene (normally written underneath in a triangle symbol) for example a plant watering spray. Spray on, wipe off with any old rag.

The "object" in question being nasty little, nimble-fingered scrotes (as we call them round here).

I read on another Tracer forum that the really annoying, odd-shaped bit of rubber that hides the front seat latch does have a function after all. If, like me, you took it out and threw it in your toolbox, it is surprisingly easy to remove the front seat without needing to unlock the rear, but the rubber stops that. As suggested elsewhere I drilled a hole and put a plastic screw from a number plate in, which makes it easier to remove the bung when you need to. I've no idea how serious being able to remove the seat without the key is, but I've put the bung back in now, to reduce the possibility.

I'm jealous that you all have such shiny headers. I've given up trying to keep them looking like that as I've ridden all winter.

eetea, see the note from cruizin re image hosting

That must really suck. UK tracers are 115PS out of the box (113 bhp) allegedy. So a $1500 penalty to restore the bike to a spec freely available in other countries. What's the reasoning behind the power drop? Emissions?

I used plastic rivets londonsi

..I have never wheelied a motorbike. There, I feel better now. Just about every review of our bike mentions the ease with which you can pop the front wheel up and I often read it in threads on here. But I always ride with TC on, and I'm too chicken, so the wheel stays where it was designed to be. So to the questions. Do you have to be a demi-god in terms of "feel" for the bike to wheelie in a controlled manner? Isn't it pretty easy to make an arse of yourself when bringing the wheel back down again and lose control? Browsing youtube brings up lots of videos of failure, as well as some very talented skinny girls holding wheelies for long stretches (but that's more a comment on my browsing history) so I'm guessing that it can't be too difficult, but costly if you get it wrong. Power on wheelies seem to be the most difficult to control, clutch popping seems the preferred method. Or am I way off base here? Where does a wheely virgin start or should I give it up as I'm just too sad, old and risk-averse?

Thanks piotrek. Ordered but will have to come from the States.

I presume you went for the pro version? Do you happen to have a part number?

Has anyone found a reliable source of the APE tensioner in the UK? Not sure I want to get something so important off ebay, unless there are no known cheap copies knocking around. Mine is noisy all the time now so needs replacing.

Sorry for thread hijack, but if the wheel nut torque setting is too high, what do you suggest as an alternative? I did mine up to the spec.

Thanks for this insight. The overly large logo had bugged me since getting the SH36 cases. The letters came off easily as you suggested and a quick rub with 1500 grit wet and dry paper has turned the underlying piece a nice smooth matt texture.

Being a dummy, I thought the starter motor would take more current than the fuel injection system.

Thanks to bruceintucson and piotrek for the instructions on raising the forks in the triple trees.

Was that easy to do? I keep thinking about doing this to help when I have the rear side cases on.

I like learning a new language From this forum I've picked up "farkles" and "cagers". Great words, although cagers is self-explanatory, it took a search to find where farkles comes from.

I learn something every day. Thanks. I also now know that the "triple tree" is what I would have called the yoke.

Which part of the bike is resting on the horizontal pole brick? Looks like a good way to suspend the front end.