clint

Discussed this several times and if you weigh under 180 or so this mod costs about $10. Take the right fork leg off (loosen the top nut first...careful of the ABS sensor & ABS disc on the wheel). Unscrew cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil (a Ratio-rite works perfect for this). Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. Snug the cap, slide the right fork back into the triples and snug it with the lower triple pinch bolt. This is a great time to raise the forks to put more weight on the front end. 5-6mm is a good compromise; use a business card with a marking on it so you can get both forks the exact height. Loosen the left top triple pinch bolt & spin the cap out til it's free. Add 15cc of fork oil to each fork leg (you can get a small graduated medicine device used for giving medicine to children for free at Walgreens/CVS, etc.)Tighten each fork cap, tighten the upper & lower pinch bolts (19 ft/lb upper, 17 ft/lb lower), slide fender into place but don't tighten bolts yet, install front wheel & torque axle but not pinch bolt, install brake calipers & torque to spec; install ABS sensor & cover. Put weight back on front wheel & bounce the front end up & down a few times using handlebars but DON'T apply the front brake. Tighten axle pinch bolt 17 ft/lb, tighten fender mounting bolts. Add 1-3 clicks of rebound and go ride. The lighter oil reduces the cheap/overly aggressive compression valving and the 15cc of oil added per for leg greatly reduces dive under braking without affecting overall ride quality. There is plenty of rebound, you don't have to worry. You could probably replace all 450+cc's of 5 wt in the right fork with 2.5 wt and still have plenty of rebound.Check your steering head bearing preload while the front wheel's off the ground. It should fall easily to either side with no drag or binding felt. Most appear to be coming from Yamaha over-tightened which drastically effects handling in a negative way! Bruce, do you think it would be possible to extract the 5wt fork oil out of the right leg using a syringe with plastic tubing extending down into the fork leg? At 175lb, this might be an inexpensive solution for me. Also, is the additional 15cc of oil added to both forks 2.5wt?

Thanks for offering! I eyeballed it and the longer rivets look like they'll work. There's quite a lot of space between the lid cover and the inner case. I'll find out for sure this weekend when I get around to fixing the case. Offtopic: With the nice FJR bags on my FJ, I feel like ditching the flimsy Kappa top case that came with my bike (courtesy of the PO). But the lady insists on having a backrest if I want her as a passenger. I think I'll either get a medium-sized top case from GIVI (V40) or SHAD (SH39) and put a back pad on, or get a dedicated backrest. I went with the Yamaha 39L top case to compliment the FJR side cases. It mounts so nicely on the OEM tail rack and all 3 bags are keyed to the ignition. Back pad is available, but I didn't want it for mine. Solo rider.

They might work, but I'm just not sure. I'm thinking they will bottom out, but you'll absolutely know when you insert them. The 1/4 ones should be available at [/url]Amazon. ...or if you'd like I can drop a few in the mail to you tomorrow!

Wow, just crazy. APE it, and forget it! I did it 3 months ago and have never looked back.

I road mine today up and around Marlinton, WV. Beautiful, cool, dry Labor Day Weekend at the Old Clark Inn. Green Bank Radio Telescope in the background.

What screen is that, and how do you like it?That screen is a Calsci Tinted Shorty. Very nice on warm days and no buffeting. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FJ-09prod.html

Rode about 400 miles today on the Blue Ridge Parkway and around Boone, NC.

As long as it blocks the oil hole, it should be fine!

Hmmm...none of that at all on mine with 9500 miles. Just the normal jap bike "whirl" in neutral and totally silent when engaged. My FJ-09 has totally smoothed out since about 2000 miles. Vibrations minimal, nice 3 cyl whistle at idle and ROAR when hard on throttle. Gear changes, clickity-smooth. Never a false neutral. Was your bike part of the clutch recall? If so, I wonder if something coming loose inside.

Anyone have a link for this?Here it is: http://r.ebay.com/Mq1DyR

I think it would look better if the screws and washers were painted black before installation, but that's just me. OH, ALRIGHT!!!!!

I just picked up a 4 pack of OEM Yamaha 5GH-13440-50-00 for $44.95 shipped off eBay. A little more than $11.25 each, it's hard to go wrong with the OEM product.

Installed the same on my bike. Solid billet product!

I've got about 11mm of thread past the lock-nut. About 8-9 threads. I installed the APE CCT about 3 weeks ago and it's been PERFECT at this setting.

IMHO, just order the APE tensioner and install it. Instant peace of mind, and about the same $ (assuming they charge you for the part). I was amazed at how much noise mine was making before I swapped it out, and how quiet it was after. Between the gradual increase in noise, and earplugs I hadn't realized how bad it was! Same here. With the earplugs, I didn't realize how noisy mine had gotten after 8500 miles. Once I installed the APE CCT..Wow! So quiet!

You'll be thrilled with your decision. Such a simple device. Set it and forget it. Pre-lube the shaft on the APE CCT with drop of oil before install, then go finger tight. Back off 1/4 turn from there and button it up! Let me know if you need more info on the install as I read all 20 pages on the other site and separated the wheat from the chaff.

Clint, what did you do to address the blocking off of the oil supply issue? Nothing, it's built into the design. See how the body of the unit extends further down into the hole? That effectively blocks the oil supply. I'm totally happy my decision. It's was an easy install (45 min including beers), it's quiet, no more worrying about it and if it needs adjusting in maybe 10,000 miles...5 minutes to adjust.

Clint, is that an aftermarket direct replacement?Indeed. Perfect replacement and quiet....sssshhhh. http://yamahazone.biz/tensioners.html

I just replaced mine with the APE CCT unit. It works PERFECTLY! I'm never going back to the Yamaha CCT.

Agreed 100%. Love my Neotec! I used to wear only Arai because of their fantastic comfort and fit on my mid-oval head. But the Neotec matches it, then adds the drop down visor and convenience of a modular.

Installed my cruise control today from Brandon Distributing....perfect! I'd been thinking about this mount position even before I received the unit. I love it there and it's a SOLID mount. I chose that position because I won't be using it that often and I didn't want it "under thumb". It still looks well integrated and OEM. As you can see, the LED install went perfectly. If you look closely, you'll see that it's actually mounted "upside-down" with the "set" button on the bottom and resume on top. I did that for two reasons. 1. Set on the bottom and resume on the top is how it's oriented in my car! 2. This allows me to hide the wire directly into the other wires underneath! Just got back from the "setup ride". It was a bit abrupt when setting the speed so I had to adjust the "Init Speed". That took only 5 minutes and now it's PERFECTLY smooth when setting the speed. Love this product!

Nicely done! I too was concerned with the lack of LEDs lit on the OEM tail light assembly and chose to replace it with a MotoDynamic unit that provides a fully lit array at all times. Fully programmable, I've got mine flashing quickly 3 times before going to full brightness. It also has a sequential turn signal function that I chose to not use, as my LED replacement turn signals provide greater conspicuity. MotoDynamic Tail Light

With all due respect, your opinion on this matter is pretty far from the facts about ABS. This is about as comprehensive a breakdown as you'll find of ABS functionality on modern motorcycles: <http://www.therideadvice.com/abs-motorcycles-vs-non-abs-motorcycles-need-motorcycle-abs/> I'll admit that the pulsing feel at the rear lever (haven't locked up the front myself yet) is a little... disconcerting... and if you prefer the tactile sensation of fully locking your tires up when you exceed available grip, then go for it, but please be weary of spreading misinformation to other riders here... especially in matters of riding safety. Exactly, he's entitled to his opinion. But not his own set of facts. 70% of braking power? Do you know how fast a modern ABS pump cycles? 60 - 0 mph, very few riders can stop a motorcycle faster without, than with ABS. Even given perfect tarmac and a few practice runs, you will typically not outperform ABS. Complicate matters with unknown tarmac, variable coefficient of friction and adrenaline running through your veins....ABS is your friend. And the best part??? It's only there if you need it! If you're a braking GOD and somehow don't lock up the front or rear during an emergency, ABS is perfectly happy leaving you in control!

So true! And never use the front brake, it's a widow maker!! (rofl)

Naked is good! She's beautiful!! Congratulations and feel free to hang around with us FJ-09 scum for as long as you like!