clint

Farkle-La-La-La! Tis the season! Integrated the Electronic Cruise Control with FJR1300 CC switchgear purchased off eBay! The old CC switch gear. New FJR1300 CC switchgear. Farkles on the tank. Coolant Recovery Tank Shield. New tires! Metzeler Roadtec 01.

...next time you do this, twist the APS CCW to near mechanical limit while in Diag14/15... you should hear something click pretty loud (I do, each time I tried). I think it's good to know where that point is to stay clear from it.I found that the click occurred when both bolts were not sufficiently loosened. It seemed that instead of rotating on center, it was pivoting on one bolt and swiveling on the other.

What make is that red tail bag @clint ?I made it myself using an Axio backpack I bought off fleabay.

Some pictures from my rides to WV. Greenbank Observatory Highland Scenic Highway - WV 150 Spruce Knob, WV

Added a red pinstripe!

Very nice sir! Where did you get the red striping tape? What is the width?

Tank should come off. @nsmiller posted a YouTube Video recently on how to replace the spark plugs. Very well done. I've ridden 3 of the past 4 days here in NC and these plugs are great. Really no difference in the stock ones, but should last a lot longer!

Why would you say that? If you don't mean it, use the winking smily face: Of all the brands I've ever used, and I've used them all, Dunlops have been the worst. I tend to lean (pun intended) towards brands with 0 degree belt construction, providing a linear turn in vs. tires with a more triangular shape that fall into turns. But mostly, Dunlops don't hit the price/performance marker for me to buy them. I'd probably pick up a set of Q3s for a track day, but that's about it.

I changed the spark plugs and air filter today at around 12,300 miles. I used the NGK Iridium CR9EIA-9 and stock air filter. The stock copper plugs were colored perfectly and could have certainly lasted 20,000 miles. It only took a couple of hours working meticulously....not hard at all really. The bike fired right up with the iridiums and I'll take it out for a few hours tomorrow.

Friends don't let friends ride on Dunlops!

I recently upgraded to Stebel HF-80 and they are comparable is shape to the Hella units. Stebel HF-80 Upgrade Used in combination with the OEM horn, they're extremely loud. Very happy with the results.

Yeah, not a recall. Go get the bike, ride it home and install the APE. Your bike, your terms...bug off (st)ealer.

Sprockets looked good on mine too, so I just replaced the chain. No issues.

Because "VENOM" sounds so cool! No other reason needed!

...is that a Sargent seat Clint? Looks good on the bike... I was concerned it woul look awkward, but it does not. How do you find it?... me wants one.Yes, that's a Sargent Seat. I had a Seat Concepts seat before and the difference is significant. Also, the little bouncy play in the OEM seat is gone with the Sargent seat! It requires a more forceful push to engage the lock. When it's there, it's not moving at all! The Carbon FX matches the Seat Concepts rear very nicely.

Would that make us the Three Stooges?Well, that's just silly.

Ahhh, those pictures look like... home! (or at least someplace real close by) Clint, what did you coat the FJR bags with? Paint? Peel-coat? You, me and @brick need to get together when things warm up and take trip for a few days. The first pic is on WV-150 Highland Scenic Highway up near Marlinton, WV. The second is on Spruce Knob also in WV. The finish on those bags are known as "unpainted" by Yamaha. They were available at one time in the U.S. It's a nice matte finish.

...for reference, here's my rig with SH48. Need my top case for commuting... side cases to take stuff on trips. Yeah, I'm not a big fan how a top box looks, but simply can't argue with the utilitarian aspects of it. I've got the Yamaha 39L with the FJR1300 hard bags. It looks so much better without it.

That looks very nice! The combination of the side bags and top case is well integrated into the lines and looks of the bike. Going larger might have provided greater utility, but it would have looked awkward. IMHO

Agreed, and that's what I do. But I believe his predicament was that he had to take the wheels to get them changed and didn't want to make two trips since it was 80 mins away.

I've got a Coats 220 tire changer in my garage, but have had both wheels off the bike at the same time, no problem. Put it on the center stand and remove the rear wheel. Remove or loosen everything on the front wheel to where you are ready to remove it. Then use a floor or scissor jack with wood block under the header or catcon to raise the front tire 1 inch off the ground and remove the wheel. Put the front wheel back on first.

Should be fine. There's not much weight on the front wheel when it's on the center stand. You could also use a floor jack with a small piece of wood on it. I used that method when taking the forks off.

You rock dude!

Clint Yes, I can see the nut on the right side, its the bolt head on the left side that I cant access or even see. Once I remove the nut then I have to pull the bolt out from the left to remove the shock, but like I said, on the left side I cant move the wiring harness out of the way enough to even see the bolt head. It doesn't want to flex at all. Thanks again for your help. I forgot to add that after you remove the nut from the top bolt, connect a couple of 1/4 drive ratchet extensions together and tap out the bolt from the right. That pushes it right up against wiring loom and the shock can be dislodged from the mount. No question, this isn't a 15 or 30 min procedure, it's a fiddly and frustrating process. Relax, be patient and it will come together.

I'm beginning to think that my only hope is to completely remove the tank to aid in access. Regardless what everyone says to just move the wiring to the side to access the top mount, I simply cant move them even a few millimeters, let alone enough to even see the bolt. I know that some say its a 15 minute procedure, but the only progress I made today was removing the lower dog bone bolt. I feel like a frickin' idiot, I finally gave up and threw all of my tools back in the tool box in frustration. Okay, let's take a step back. Make sure you're getting to it from the right side of the bike. Right side, as you sit on it. This is what it looks like on mine. You might want to tape off that area of the frame to keep from scratching it up.