Panther6834

One thing to consider when purchasing SD cards, whether for a dashcam, camera, drone, or anything else that uses SD cards (including microSD)...the "fastest" is NOT always the fastest. For one thing, the capacity factors into the read & write speeds (and, remember, the write speed is FAR more important). Additionally, different brands have different speeds, even when comparing "identical" (ie. capacity, and classification). Case in point - SanDisk "Ultra" & "Extreme" cards. I just purchased Nikon's just-released Coolpix P1000 Ultra-Zoom camera, and needed to get an SD card for it. While the camera does support up to 512GB cards (if they're SanDisk, as the camera only supports up to 128GB Samsung cards), I decided that 128GB should be more than enough...although I would also consider two 64GB cards, depending on price, & read/write speeds (ie. if two 64GB cards were equal/less than the 128GB card and/or the 64GB card was significantly faster than the 128GB card). Anyway, I compared the specs of the Ultra & Extreme cards, in both 64GB & 128GB capacities. With the 64GB cards, the Extreme was noticeably faster than the Ultra, yet the price was only slightly higher. If I were to decide on a 64GB card, I would have gotten the SanDisk Extreme. However, I was still leaning towards the 128GB cards...and here's where things get we extremely (pun intended) 'interesting'. While the Extreme was faster than the Ultra with the 64GB cards, the opposite was true when it comes to the 128GB cards, as the Ultra is actually faster (for both read & write speeds) than the Extreme. Considering all four cards were on sale, the 128GB Ultra was the snag smartest/wisest decision. The moral of this story is, do NOT just go by the speed classification - while many U3 cards are faster than their comparable (ie. capacity) U1 cards, there ARE some U1 cards that are faster than their comparable U3 cards...when purchasing SD (or microSD) cards, ALWAYS compare the read/write speeds for the capacities you are considering. It's ok to "trade" a little speed for a higher-capacity card, but, if the speed difference is to great, then (especially for use in a dashcam) consider the next smaller capacity.

In some areas, retaining the cat is required by law, thus the reason the Yamaha/Yoshi exhaust system is (as far as I'm aware) the only n50-state legal replacement exhaust system. In my case, being in California, it's most definitely required. When I can afford it, the Yamaha/Yoshi system is what I'll be going with...and I'll be leaving it 'as-is'...well, with the exception of having 2WDW update the flash on my ECU.

If I remember correctly...and if it is the same connector as found on pre-2019 Tracers/FJ-09s...this is to add a second 12V "cigarette" accessory power plug (installed to the right of the display), identical to the factory-installed 12V accessory plug to the left of the display. The "sad" thing about both of these is that (as mentioned by others, in various threads) it is only 2A, as opposed to 3-5A. While a 2A plug is (barely) adequate for something like a GPS, it's not enough for most other plug-in accessories, such as a dual-USB adapter (most dual-USB adapters have either one 1A & one 2.1A, or two 2.1A). I wonder (meaning, I haven't checked on my '17 FJ) if it's possible to replace the fuse for this line only (ie. leave the left side 2A) with a slightly higher (again, 3-5A) fuse, which would make it perfect for installing a dual-USB port into that second location. Personally, I've already installed a dual-USB port, but, instead of attempting what I just described (which might have been easier than what I did), I ran the wiring through the frame, above the engine, with the + connected to my Rowe AmpLink, and the - connected to my ground terminal block. On a separate note, for those not familiar with the Rowe AmpLink, it's a Bluetooth version of their PDM60. For those not familiar with either of these, it's, essentially, a circuit breaker for motorcycles, with 6 circuits, providing a total combined output of 60A (no one circuit can be more than 20A). With the PDM60, or AmpLink, you no longer need fuses for your connected accessories...and, if any such accessories also use relays, you no longer need those. While it is a considerably more expensive way to go ($200 for the PDM60, $250 for the AmpLink), as fuses are relatively cheap, it cleans up the "spiderweb" of wires that would normally be connected to your battery...and also saves your shop mechanic from scratching his/her head for an hour trying to figure out what all your wires are.

When I installed mine, the only problem I ran into was the lower bolt on the left side, near the shift lever. It was a serous PITA, purely because the bolt goes entirely through the frame, needs a wrench for reach side, and (realistically) requires two people. I had to take my bike into the shop for something unrelated, and asked if they'd loosen the bolt for me, which they did (no extra charge). Once they'd loosened it, getting it off the rest of the way, and getting it back on, was fairly simple. I started removing it from one side with a rubber mallet, and pulled it out from the other side using a vice-grip. Side note: The GIVI Engine Guard Bars make an excellent mounting point for the compressor of a Denali SoundBomb Dual-Tone Air Horn, highway pegs, & running/fog lights. If anyone is looking for a great highway peg mount, I HIGHLY recommend the Joker Machine 1.25" Highway Bar Footpeg Mount (available from Revzilla, https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/joker-machine-125-highway-bar-footpeg-mount?kclid=b7938ee1-d968-456f-936d-e78e532d1099&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2f7bBRDVARIsAAwYBBudjJkLHbTM7-2IANfcT42WDmKC4dWnRQnanxR8MO9keIcu3o58PQAaAhMcEALw_wcB), along with your choice of footpegs. Joker Machine makes several footpegs, but any HD-mount footage should work. For mounting, use a couple of short pieces of 1.25" OD, 1" ID tubing (this recommendationcame directly from Joker Machine).

I have the Puig Touring Windscreen installed, using the includes handguard brackets (they move the second piece of the handguard figure out by approx 1.25"), as well as the SW-MOTECH Barback Risers. I've had no problems, whatsoever. However, when it came to installing the barback risers, I discovered a "problem" (which had nothing to do with the windscreen, or (technically) the risers) - the brake & clutch cable lengths don't allow for excessive movement of the bars. Thankfully, the "resolution" was quite simple. When installing the SW-MOTECH Barback Risers, if the OEM risers remain in the 'stock' position, it moves the bar back too far, resulting in the brake & clutch lines begging stretched too far. A lot of people don't realize that the OEM risers have 2 positions: back, & forward. The "stock" position, as placed by most dealerships, is in the 'back' position. However, if you remove the bar, loosen the bolts holding the OEM risers, rotate the risers 180°, place the bar back into the OEM risers, and then tighten the riser bolts, this will allow the barback risers to be installed without stretching the brake & clutch lines.

TwoWheelObsession did a great (almost 19 minute) video review, covering installation, as well as some daytime (at the 16:28 mark) & nighttime (at the 17:11 mark) video examples, front & rear. He also mentions the looseness of the bolt holding the camera to the mount, and mentions the same lock-washer solution. Here's the link to his video review: While my car already has a 2-channel dashcam system (Thinkware F770 (front) & F770R (rear)), I've been looking for a front/rear dashcam system for the bike. Of the various models I've read reviews for, and watched videos about, the HaloCam M1 does appear to be one of the best options (I can't honestly say "the best", as I'm certain I don't know ALL available models/options). I was waiting for Sena to release the 10C Pro (will be MUCH better than the also-not-yet-released 10C Evo), but (a) I'm tired of waiting, & (b) it's really just another "action cam", and not a true dashcam. Looks like the HaloCam M1 will be my 'winner', as well.

I agree with quadnorth's "suggestion" of a tether. I use a Kryptonite Disc Lock, which came with a bright orange one, on the front, with the other end of the tether on the front brake lever. As for the rest, not to worry, as I have that covered (when parked at home), using a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Chain Disc Lock w/ 3.5ft chain. I'm even considering picking up the 5ft version. According to their claim (and their warranty), you can just lock it up, and fahgettaboudit.

Today was "install electrical accessories day", although, technically, not everything installed related directly to being 'electrical'. With the exception of the ground block (from Twisted Throttle), everything came from Revzilla. Kicking off the installations was a RAM Mounts Torque Bar Mount (more on this, below), mounted on my GIVI S900A SmartBar, plus a pair of R&G Racing Bar End Sliders. Next up was a ground block (installed under the pillion seat, just in front of the rear brake light), which has 8 12V O-Ring attachment points. After the ground block came a Dual-USB port (one 2.1 Amp + one 1 Amp), installed where Yamaha invented a second 12V "cigarette" power adapter. Moving to the other side of the bike, a harness for a Garmin Zūmo 595LM (mounted onto the RAM Torque Bar Mount) was installed on the left side of the GIVI SmartBar (a GIVI S920L SmartClip is installed on the right side, leaving more than enough room for two 3-way switches for auxiliary lighting, which will be installed in the coming months). Finally, to "control" the power of all current/future accessories (except for theMCCruise Cruise Control, due to its 30 Amp fuse), I installed a Rowe Electronics PDM60, which is "hidden" under the pillion seat lock mechanism. For those not familiar with the PDM60, it stand for "Power Distribution Module, w/ 60 Amp maximum current capacity", and can have a maximum of 6 accessories attached to it. Programming the PDM60 is done via a proprietary USB cable (you MUST disconnect PDM60 from battery whenever programming). Think of it as a circuit breaker for motorcycles...although it can also be used with ATVs, cars, trucks, etc. The ground wire for the PDM60 was connected to the ground block, leaving enough remaining ground block connections for 7 accessories (when I have additional time, I'll reroute the cruise control's ground wire, which leaves 6 remaining ground points, equal to the 6 connections on the PDM60). For those who like the idea of a motorcycle "circuit breaker", but don't like the idea of having to disconnect it from the battery ever time you add/remove an accessory (because you have to reprogram the unit EVERY time you add/remove accessories), Rowe Electronics just released a second version, AmpLink PDM, which uses an app to program the unit via Bluetooth 4.1, and for which (from what I understand) you don't need to disconnect it from the battery. There are a few other differences, but, to me, the $50 difference ($200 for PDM60 vs $250 for AmpLink PDM) wasn't worth it. Maybe, in the coming years, with further advancements in micro-electronics, bikes will start being released with PDMs installed by the manufacturers, replacing the plethora of fuses, as this would not only save money over the bike's lifespan, but, in working together with the ECU, and other core electronics, the display could, potentially, display info of where electrical problems are occurring. This would not remove companies, such as Rowe Electronics, from the equation, as aftermarket PDMs would still be needed for aftermarket accessories. As for my "day", I spent so much time working (and washing, once finished) on the bike (as well as taking care of a few personal matters, including a ticket for doing in the carpool lane with only me in that limousine...don't ask...lol), that I didn't have time to hit the road. Oh, well...maybe next Sunday.

I can echo peporter on the Soundbomb. My riding buddies heard it on the open road and have threatened bodily harm if I ever use it in a tunnel. Amazing to get that much sound from a bike horn. Ride Safe The "tunnel threat" probably isn't just because of the volume, but alsi because of the slightly contrasting tones. When my neighbor heard mine, he said it reminded him of a 1960s Cadillac.

Did you check into the possibility of using Gorilla Glue? If so, why was this option "not acceptable"?

And, to think I thought my insurance (SF Bay Area, California) was high. With my previous bike (2006 Suzuki SV650S), and full coverage ($100K/300K, deductible waiver, medical, towing, etc), I was paying slightly less than $400/yr, which jumped to a lol over $600/yr with the FJ. Sorry to hear that.

Can't say anything about the Road 5s (yet...tho they're what I'm planning when it's time to replace the stock tires)...on past bikes, I've run the Angel GTs, and lived them. However, in regards to the GIVI Engine Guard Bars, you're gonna love them. One of the most solid & beefiest bars I've used...I even mounted the compressor for my Denali SoundBomb air horn to them.

It's funny you should ask that, as I was just about to post an update related to this very subject, and happened to come across your post. For anyone considering barback risers, I discovered something that you NEED to know. It doesn't matter which brand you get...that's more of a personal preference...the barback risers are outstanding. On that note.......... Unfortunately, installing the bar back risers with the OEM risers in the "default" (ie. bars closer to the river) introduced the very cable-stretching problem surmised by carlf. There wasn't any problem noticed when the bars were locked (full left), and when centered, the broken was minimal enough that I didn't think it would matter. It wasn't until moving the bike back to its "storage" location that, when the bats were full right, I realized the throttle cables were stretched tight, and the front brake line was fairly right. While rotating the bar into a slightly more upright position removed the tension on the brake line, it still wasn't enough for the throttle cables. The "solution", ingeniously-enough, was extremely simple. Before installing any barback risers, first rotate the OEM riser 180° (bars further from rider). That 1cc difference (5mm forward vs 5mm back) made all the difference. After removing the bars from the OEM risers, loosen the nuts (underside of top triple tree) holding the OEM risers, rotate both risers 180°, temporarily bold the bars back into place, then tighten the riser nuts (these last two steps are just to make certain the OEM risers are perfectly straight). Once you've tightened the OEM riser nuts, you can remove the bar, and proceed to install the barback risers. Once the barback risers are installed the bar in position, and the barback riser's top clamp & boots in place, do NOT tighten the bolts. After centering the bar, rotate the bar back enough to provide the best upright riding position...but, at the same time, make sure it's rotated forward enough to leave slack on the throttle cables & front brake line, THEN tighten the bolts.

I was just doing some research, and your best choices might be the following. For the front tire, as many have pointed out, the Michelin Road 5 should be the optimal pick. Heck...I'm even willing to forgo the Angel GT in the front, just to see how well the Road 5 does. As for the rear tire, going with either the Michelin Road 5 or Pirelli Angel GT, you can't go wrong. Personally, as much as I like having the same tire front & rear, if you happen to ride in wet conditions, the Angel GT might prove better at moving rear-tire water. I'm just curious, but, does anyone have first-hand experience with BOTH tires (rear wheel only)?

I can't say how the Pirelli Angel GTs will work on the FJ-09, but I can tell you that I had them on my last bike (2006 Suzuki SV650S), and they were absolutely fantastic. The slight additional cost over the Angel STs was worth it, as I did a lot of freeway commuting, thus the wear along the center was considerably greater than the side wear. Chances are, when it comes time to replace the tires on my FJ-09, the Angel GT will be my first consideration.