kmev

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I run a Yamaha 50L and love it. If it holds what you want it to hold, it's not oversize. I run mine with saddlebags to whatever speed I want to ride and have not experienced any ill effects. The 50L has been so useful that I now leave it on all the time and it is the first case I open to store or carry stuff.

Sign up for their email newsletters for sales notifications - every summer they offer an in store discount - and make the trip then.

I bought my bike used with a tidy tail installed. I was going to reinstall the OEM license carrier/turn signals to stop all the crud from landing on the rear rack and passenger seat - looks like I probably don't need to bother with that.

What year bike do you own? If you have a 2017 or newer you have the updated cable. If you have a 2015 of 2016, you want to order part number 2PP-26335-02.

Make sure you get the old cable back to carry with you in case the new cable fails!

If you're fitting the revised cable soon I wouldn't bother lubing the old cable. I'm at 9,000 miles on the original 2015 cable and no problems. I do carry the newer, revised cable with the expectation that I will be replacing it roadside at some point. I found the best way to lube cables was to hang them vertically and wrap a "funnel" of duct tape around the uppermost end and then fill the funnel with the lube of your choice. After a few hours you will see the lube dripping out of the bottom. I don't know how you would use your pictured syringe to add lube without making a duct tape funnel.

My photos are also taken with a Galaxy S5, and I just tried it again - still too large to load.

I started to create one, but then realized I need to resize all of my images as they were too large. Haven't had the time or ambition to do that.

You don't say......now that's funny! Just here to help........The way I installed it the gate opens up and you have to hold the helmet up to keep it from slipping off while you latch the lock. Of course, it never occurred to me that I may have installed it in the wrong direction - I always thought "why did they make the lock this way?".

This link just made me realize I installed my lock 180 degrees wrong, lol!

This summer I purchased the Yamaha helmet lock from Yamaha of Cucamonga: I removed the lock barrel, inserted my ignition key, and then ground the exposed tumblers to make it keyed to the ignition key. I made my own mount that replicated the OEM mount but included a mount for a Powerlet socket forward of the frame. After a summer of riding wet, dirty roads, the lock gets a lot of grime from the rear tire and now doesn't always want to lock. I'm going to disassemble the lock and pack it with grease to see it that helps keep the lock free.

I'm at 7,000 and also in need of a new chain. It was lubed every 500 miles, too.

Yep, I run only 93 Octane (US). I do ride it hard too. I daily commute and the metered on-ramps get treated like mini-drag trees. I even did a 600 mile round trip out of state on a week day a couple weeks ago and followed a couple of sports cars cruising at low triple digits. I'm not easy on the motorcycle, but I do all services on schedule and lube the chain every couple hundred miles. Original chain and sprockets still look great at 16k miles. The good news is the valves were all in spec with no issues. Thanks for the reply. I treat my bike similarly to yours. I always suspected the low octane fuel might have been a culprit in the K75's receding valves, so when I read that receding valves may be an issue on the FJs I resolved to always run high octane in an effort to stave that off. It may be a load of bunk, but an ounce of prevention, as they say..

Do you always run high-octane fuel? Do you rev it high on a regular basis? I had a BMW K75S that had valve recession. I ran 87 octane fuel, and I wonder if that was the culprit. I only run high octane in the FJ, just in case - high octane fuel is cheaper than a valve job.

Looks like you'll need asbestos pants to ride that thing.

Sorry to hear that the Sergeant isn't working for you. You certainly have put it to the test. I have had better luck with my butt. Just completed 10,000 miles since April 12th, 2 1/2 months with the longest ride/day 660 miles. Compared to my FJR's Russell DayLong seat which I have over 170K on, I'm very happy with the Sergeant. Some times it just takes miles to get your butt in shape to do the long distance and day after day shape. I would try to rack up 25K before investing in another seat. I had a Russell Day Long on my BMW K75S (which the FJ-09 replaced) - I loved that seat. The Sergeant digs into my legs at the edge where the welt cord is, and the slope is wrong. I placed blocks under the front to make it a better angle, but I still don't like it. Yesterday I did an 865 mile day on the Sergeant and I'm still in pain today. I don't think more miles is going to help that. Terry's seat looks very similar to the Daylong that I loved and the price is right, so giving it a try. Terry just responded to my email inquiry - he's on vacation until the second week in July with build dates in August. So my Sergeant should be for sale here by September.

I just sent an email to Terry to get in the queue. I just finished 3,600 miles in 6 days on a Sergeant and I need something better for those kinds of miles.

What do you use to re-key it? I was told that I wasn't able to so I've been carrying an extra key around... Dissasemble lock, insert ignition key into lock, use a dremel tool to grind down any tumblers that are protruding from the lock barrel, smooth grinding marks with emory cloth, reassemble and enjoy.

Fabricated a bracket that mounts both a Powerlet socket for my heated jacket and a Yamaha helmet lock that I rekeyed to the ignition switch key.