coachluciano

21 minutes ago, BugsInTeeth said:

not only THAT ^^^,  but the unit I bought, (and I couldn't care Less  WHO makes it),  weighs over 2 pounds LESS, because it's made of Aluminum instead of steel like the factory pieces...and I too, think that paying yoshi's REDICULOUS prices for stuff you can get cheaper is STUPID.

 

so far, I've taken over 22 lbs of junk offa this bike that I don't like, don't need, or don't want....if you combine that thot

process with the Flash from 2WDW, it's now a REAL  ripper, and it suits ME  JUST FINE       Thank You ! !

 

Look at signature. Think about how many pound have came off my bike. Lol. 

3 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

Why?  Yoshi could sell it at half the price easily.  Paying over $100 for a simple black painted bent bit of metal is (in my books anyways) crazy.  Now, I'd certainly go name brand where quality and reliability are important, but this?  It's functionally identical to the Yoshi but a third of the price.  They're not "ripping off" Yoshi or stealing IP - a tail tidy like this is a simple license plate bracket not some clever invention.

I chose to spend a lot less for my random bracket, and also ride with no shame... And an extra $70 in my pocket.

I was a joke. However, I’ve spent a good deal of my career in intellectual property (patents) for a large global company, protecting our patents and suing for 100s millions in patent infringements. The Chinese steal everything they can. Period. They let someone do all the work and immediately copy what they can and sell for cheap.  you didn’t get instructions because they have no clue what they sold you, nor how to install it  I know this first hand  

I buy American whenever possible anyways. 

1 hour ago, BugsInTeeth said:

here's a link to them...Ebay ..  :

 

 

Yamaha MT-09 Tracer/FJ-09 /Tracer 900 2015-2019 Rear Tail Tidy/Fender Eliminator

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YAMAHA Tracer 900/GT 2018-2019. YAMAHA MT-09 Tracer 2015-2018...

there are no instructions come with this, it's kinda figure it out .....

and I dunno if it would clear the bags or not ...   I don't have them so....

Stop buying Chinese knockoffs. Buy original Japanese. I chose to spend a lot more for my Yoshi and I ride with no shame. 

Switch arrived today from Germany.  Looks like a fairly simple install.  Just tap a small hole in the lever and bolt-er up.  Way cleaner than a hydraulic switch.

9 hours ago, ilanr1 said:

Hi , can you share the list of parts+prices that you use in this project ?,

I think that I'm going to do that too.

Thanks

Let me get the switch working so the whole solution is complete and I'll put something together.  Sadly enough I have to remove everything to install the switch and I hate working with brake fluid.  I'm too anal about drips and splashes - makes for not-so-nice activity.  Also, forgot to use the Spiegler crush washers on the slave, so get that taken care of at the same time.  I knew I was going to have to disassemble for the switch, but had to make sure it worked before.

36 minutes ago, duhs10 said:

Got my Ready Luxe with Bultex... first impressions are positive. Will have to wait for a ride to truly know.

As far as the gap on the rear seat. I probably wouldn't have noticed it right away had it not been brought to my attention on the forum. I will be swapping out the rubber feet on the rear seat to get it a little closer to the body work.

Yes you will. Lol. 

52 minutes ago, Buggy Nate said:

The clutch switch also plays some form of role in returning the fuel mapping to a base setting when idling. Mine wasn’t quite set up right and wasn’t engaging soon enough and was making the idle rough. Occasionally the motor would stall on fast decelerations. It was also stopping the silly eco light from coming on for some reason.

Interesting. Going to reach out to Ivan’s (my flashed ECU) and ask what specifically he is doing with the clutch switch. The switch is normally closed and interrupts flow when engaged. I’ll definitely keep this mind. Make sure it closes the circuit as soon as I’m truly engaging the clutch. Thanks. 

25 minutes ago, betoney said:

Glad to hear that it is all functional and working as expected!  👍

Me too. Lol. $550 litmus test. Real world trials have to wait. Old Man Winter came early to NY. 

Ohh baby. Lines in, DOT fluid in, air bubbles out. And damm, it’s working. I have some tweaking to do, but so far it’s all going together as hoped. Clutch pull is smooth and easier than before. So I have the slipper clutch and best test I was able to conduct was to see if I could pull the clutch in with thumb and index finger, and so on down the finger line. Was able to pull the clutch in with the cable installed with every finger except pinky. Hydraulic clutch, I can pull the lever in with just thumb and pinky. So pull is definitely lighter.

I found a mechanical switch in Germany and I’ll have it tomorrow. That is the only outstanding issues. Clutch switch. I’d just pass it and live with the risks, but my Healtech Quickshifter monitors clutch activity and I think I’d be in for some angst. 

Why did you go back to stock master cylinder?

Line came today. Dry fit was perfect. Glad I measured everything properly. Was a $98 gamble. Get some fluid in it this weekend and finally have the answer to this whole project. 

Ordered the custom hydraulic line from Spiegler today. They were awesome to deal with on the phone. Fingers crossed that not only did I measure properly, but all goes together as hoped. 

12 hours ago, piotrek said:

Rizoma (below) has several fans on here... mostly FJ owners I think. The 900/GT bar is shorter than the FJ... not sure the length. FJ-09 OE bar is 770mm wide.

I have the MA006. It’s really nice. 

2 hours ago, coachluciano said:

Just just read them. Yes. Basically the same. What they don’t tell you is how to “remove” the stock lines. When your ready let me know and I’ll shoot you some notes. On the ingenuity scale, this ain’t for the faint hearted. And you’ll need proper line wrench. Which I know you have lol.  Did this with minimal fluid drops if any. But you can see I immediately wrapped each line when removed. Makes snaking back through the frame less stressful when you're thinking about brake fluid spewing all over the place. 

I take some of that back @texscottyd  the Galfer lines really one the stock “manifold” blocks ( not sure of the proper term. The black aluminum blocks the hard lines tie into in my picture). Spiegler lines eliminates those. Interesting. @betoney no issues with ABS I’m guessing? I won’t know for 4-5 months. Lol. Eff’n winter is here. 

13 minutes ago, betoney said:

I cant see why you would ever need them or want to reuse them.  If you look up above the starter motor, between the frame and motor, you will see the 2 hard lines, I cut them there and threw them away once they were removed.

I had to use my new line wrenches and shed some blood, otherwise cutting them seems more logical. Wasn’t sure how hard they were, so I just unbolted from the blocks and fed them out. Had to bend each one on the way out. Lol.  

1 hour ago, betoney said:

Glad to hear that you have them installed without issue.  Mine didn't come with any instructions 😲 I just went slow like you mentioned, and tackled one line at a time. 

Do you have 320mm rotors? Wondering how these will fit when I kick the rotor back 11mm??  They are very tight  now. Guess I’ll find out when I slap them on thanks to @roadrash83. Spacer arrived Tuesday. 

27 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@coachluciano & @betoney - I’m impressed, and need to get motivated to install my own set of Galfer lines.  I’ve had them on the shelf for longer than I would like to admit.   

For reference if anyone needs them, the Galfer site has good model-specific instructions available to download.   I can’t imagine the process is any different across different brands of lines.   

The instructions download link is about halfway down the page: 

Galfer FJ 09 brake lines

 

 

Just just read them. Yes. Basically the same. What they don’t tell you is how to “remove” the stock lines. When your ready let me know and I’ll shoot you some notes. On the ingenuity scale, this ain’t for the faint hearted. And you’ll need proper line wrench. Which I know you have lol.  Did this with minimal fluid drops if any. But you can see I immediately wrapped each line when removed. Makes snaking back through the frame less stressful when you're thinking about brake fluid spewing all over the place. 

21 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@coachluciano & @betoney - I’m impressed, and need to get motivated to install my own set of Galfer lines.  I’ve had them on the shelf for longer than I would like to admit.   

For reference if anyone needs them, the Galfer site has good model-specific instructions available to download.   I can’t imagine the process is any different across different brands of lines.   

The instructions download link is about halfway down the page: 

Galfer FJ 09 brake lines

 

 

Well this is what came out, just for the front.  @texscottyd. Lol. Replaced with 3  simples lines with well placed heat coverage and grommets that to match stock locations. Spiegler has a proprietary banjo and they allow you to rotate them as needed to align without any line twist. I had to use this. One all is aligned and set up, lock er down and find all the stock grommet locations and  bundle everything up. Sweetness. 

Got my Spiegler front lines installed today. All in all, not to bad. Not something you want to rush. Everything fall into place after you read the instructions a dozen times and go slow. Had some issues bleeding them until I remember the Brembo has a bleeder on it. As soon as I hit that with the vac, all came together. 

Wow. This bike gets around. Thanks for sharing. Doing some research into Hannibal’s Bucket now. That this is slightly huge. 

On 11/22/2019 at 11:08 PM, getpetey said:

Had oil, filter, coolant, brake fluid all changed. Had my SW Motech skid plate powder coated (wrinkle black) and installed. Didn’t really like the look of the aluminum. Looked out of place IMO!

 

 Oh, and I ordered a Sargeant seat......

Yes  you bought mine off eBay. Lol.  Funny how the FJ stars align. The red on the Sargent matches your bike to a T. 

 

Found this after some exhaustive searching. Should be here maybe next week. The hydraulic switch has me on the fence and this will eliminate any doubt. Looks like a simple 3mm tap into the handle to screw down the post and the rest is plug and play. Find out soon enough. Have the bike apart and can finally pull the cable and get measuring for the hydraulic line. 

I will admit, snaking a Spiegler line through the “clutch path” has me concerned. Have conceded to Old Man Winter here in NY so the bike is parked in its winter resting place. Will take the tank and air box off this weekend and get a good idea for routing the line. Need to do that anyways to get the new brake lines installed 

Finally got the slave today. Fits perfectly where it should. Next up, buy the hydraulic line and see if things play well together.