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coachluciano

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Posts posted by coachluciano

  1. 7 hours ago, DaBizness said:

    Thanks for all the advice. Much appreciated. Has anybody had a good experience with a specialist in the DC area that flashes ECUs?

    Ivan was in NY, but moved to NC I believe over the spring. I have his flash. They are all good. I’m tempted to buy the used ECU on eBay for my bike and have  2WDW flash it. Then I can swap between the two and give a good report. Maybe if I reach out to 2WDW and tell them what I’m doing, they’ll give me a break on the flash in return for a proper Ivan / 2WDW review. 

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  2. On 11/3/2019 at 2:06 PM, MikeH said:

     

    I wear my heart on my sleeve and will be really honest I suffer with a little depression etc and a return to motorcycling really is a great therapy for me!

     

    You and I are not too far apart on that one my friend, if at all. Very similar stories and when I purchased my FJ it was for that very reason. I have no concrete data as to why I ended up with FJ, other than fate. Not only did it fill my previous “crotch rocket”  obsession but got me off the couch and back into the world of fresh air and pushing boundaries. I’ve made the best of that, trust me. Welcome. 

    • Like 1
  3. Unless you ride where there are no filling stations within a 100 radius of each other, my advice is to ride the hell out of it and when you get concerned about running out of fuel, fill up. My bike was new last year and I’ve had tanks go into 240 miles before I was told to refuel. I’ve also had tanks do the same  thing at 130 miles. When you are concerned, pull over pop open the cap, slosh the tank and you’ll know where your at. 

  4. 5 hours ago, Mission360 said:

    Can anyone please help with the issue I am having?

    I have trawled the forums regarding this and want to be able to up the amperage of the 12v accessory socket near the handlebars. At the moment my phone drains quicker than it charges when Nav/comms/music are active. I have read that it struggles to deliver even 1.6 amps.

    I purchased an Optimate Usb charger plug that states it will deliver 3.3 amps as long as only one usb socket is used https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o106-usb-charger-cig-plug

    I have disconnected the 12v accessory socket and I have wired in a 30 amp relay with 17amp cable going direct to the 12v accessory socket instead. I have found a switched live to provide switched power etc etc. The relay is doing it's job and providing switched power to the accessory socket, and also a connection directly to the battery to the relay but I am still no better off amperage wise.

    Have I misunderstood that this was even possible? I followed the instructions in the link below.

    https://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html

    Help!!

     

     

    You have to be careful with that “lighter” plug. It will vibrate out of proper contact and look like it’s plugged in connected to your battery when it’s not. Put a shim in there to make sure you have no play and try again. 

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  5. Temp will fluctuate. Mine goes anywhere from 165 when I’m moving up to 200 if I’m siting still for a bit. Stock ECU does not turn on the fan until 220, so you are fine at 200. Just make sure your fan is kicking on at 220 and it doesn’t spend much time at 220. I have a flashed ECU and my fan comes on at 200 or 205 so my temp don’t get much higher than that. Welcome to a beast of a bike. 

  6. 18 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

    @skipperT - Done just that and happy to report I'm good - thanks.  But will have to be more mindful of that hose in future.

    Cheers.

    Yes. Was playing with my hose last night and if you aren’t careful when you attach it to the breather box, you can easily introduce a kink. You want to “twist” the hose once it’s connected clockwise slightly before you lock it into place.  That will reduce the possibility of a kink significantly.  

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    • Thanks 1
  7. 27 minutes ago, skipperT said:

    @coachluciano A new one shouldn’t cost too much, but you could still try working with yours if you want. 

    That hose is formed in such a way, so that it naturally routes in a certain way. Take yours off and see if it is still open and holds that form. 
    it’s difficult to describe, but almost resembles a “U” that’s rotated on its side, and has a slight twist to it. 
    you can reposition it on the valve cover side so that it is pointed in the correct orientation toward the air box. if none of this makes sense, let us know and I’m sure someone can snap a pic. 
    -Skip
     

    @skipperT Thank for this - yes I do what you are referring to.  I'll snap a picture of what mine looks like.  $12 for a new one so that's good.  Gut tell me to just buy a new one. 

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  8. On 11/4/2019 at 11:44 PM, norcal616 said:

    You might be able to see it if you look from the sides along the top of motor, but you just may have to pull the airbox up to see, maybe get a friend to see/help... The hose is on bottom of airbox and goes to valve cover... The "whine" is distinct, you will notice if you did have a kinked hose vs a non kinked hose( I should mention I removed the noise damping foam under the gas tank) so that might make the "whine" more audible... 

    I had a kinked airbox hose and didn't even notice it till I blew a seal on the clutch arm at the engine cover...after fixing the seal and unkinking the hose, I definitely noticed the distinct "whine"...

    I can tell you that hose in particular is easy to crimp when reinstalling the air box.  I have mine apart for the brake line install and noticed that last time i put the box on i was not careful enough - my hose was kinked, but not completely.  I guess I'll be buying a new hose as this one will no always want to follow the kink-line, unless there is a trick to taking them out of the hose that I am not aware of.

  9. 4 hours ago, vrona said:

    Hello. My name is Michael, I live in Lublin Poland. I am the owner of 2017 Tracer 900 since June this year, I drove about 12,000 km (32,000 on the meter) and I love this motorcycle.

     

    Welcome to the best source of FJ/MT/Tracer data you will find collected in one place.  Hang on, your about to learn all the things you didn't know you needed “for” your FJ needed. @texscottyd @betoney @roadrash83 and a bunch of others  can all attest to the disease of the FJ. 

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    • Haha 2
  10. Sweet - Will be doing that for sure and it solves a slightly different problem I had ever since I added the MPG rearset.  Always had problems "adjusting" so it was consistent.  One thing that had me concerned is the fact it's 90 degrees and wondered how it would line up so it pointed in the proper direction.  I see @betoney  you had no issues.  Does the bango bolt also have the nice "Spiegler" rotation capability? 

  11. 1 hour ago, MemphisTracer said:

    Thanks for allowing me to join. I just picked up my brand new "leftover" 2015 FJ-09 candy red with zero miles last weekend. I was able to get a great price on it. Originally had my sites on a '19 Tracer or Tracer GT. Very happy with the FJ. Looking forward to warmer temps. 

     

    I did the same thing last fall - left over 2015 with no miles - $6700 out the door.  However, you will need that savings to pay for all the stuff you didn't know you needed until you bought this fine machine.  I think I may have doubled the cost of mine getting it to where my OCD mind says it should be.  And apparently I'm not done yet :)

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  12. 4 hours ago, David Phipps said:

    Watching Utube blogs the other day and a guy from the US comment on why the FJ 09 had a speed limiter fitted on them. He reckons it's because the bike goes into a tank slapper at around the 115 mph mark, and he said his did. Does anyone know of problems with the handling at high speeds?

    ive ridden at 130+ MPH whenever the opportunity arises - no issues.  Also  - limiter only in the US I believe.  be aware, I do not have anything stock on my handlebars aside from the switches.  So removing the large hand guards and smaller width helps with aerodynamic issues.

  13. 5 minutes ago, betoney said:

    That is great info.  thanks.  So would you just wire them in reverse polarity?

    No - you need the proper switch out of the gate.  My guess is rear brake is like front brake and uses a normally open switch (which the hydraulic is), but if it's wired in series with anything else in the circuit, that may not be the case. I'll put a meter on mine when I get home. Then we will know.  I also have same hydraulic switch as noted above from my clutch project. I have me rear Speigler lines waiting to be installed.  I think I just found my next project - lol

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  14. 1 hour ago, betoney said:

    I checked mine again last night and it was already intermittent again.

    Well, curiosity got the better of me last night.  (damn internet makes it far too easy to succumb to your temptations)😎

    After a little research, I decided to go with the Spiegler switch.  I have their braided brake lines and know their quality, plus it has a right angle exit from the MC with a heavy gauge rubber boot.

    spiegler_brake_light_switch.jpg

    Out of all the hydraulic brake light switches on the market, there's only one...

     

    Do yourself a favor and put an ohm meter on your current switch to make sure it's "Normally Open" and closes the contacts when actuated.  These hydraulic switches only come Normally Open.  Strangely enough the clutch switch is "Normally Closed" and you break the circuit when the clutch is pulled in.  I to0 like your idea. Ever since adding my MPG rearset, rear brake switch has been finicky and this will resolve that

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  15. 1 hour ago, piotrek said:

    Have to say I imagined the switch mod looking wonky, but now that I see it... nicely done! How do you calibrate the action of the clutch switch... adjusting the lever or the position of the micro-switch itself?

    Both actually. But can’t do a final setup until I can ride it. When I upload some video of the slave and the effect of the adjuster you’ll see why I won’t have an  answer. However, the switch plate mounts to the pivot bolt of the Brembo lever and once you have the lever completely adjusted for the clutch you rotate the switch to make contact and you tighten the pivot bolt and set the switch position. Done. (I hope)

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  16. 16 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

    Nice job but a lot of work and $ for a minimal gain in performance IMO (given the slip/assist clutch is installed)...

    Exactly. What most of you don’t recall is this all started when I installed Brembo master cylinder. Of which, multiple gains and then some. But my OCD kicked in and I needed to match it ascetically. So there the journey began. We have many bike nights here in the summer in Rochester NY and for some reason my FJ gets a lot of attention. Meanwhile I’m drooling over all the other bikes. Lol. At least now my FJ is truly custom to some extent. 

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  17. Finally got the switch installed. Went smooth and seems to work like a charm, at least with the amp meter.  Got the slave dialed in as well. I’ll upload some videos in a bit. If there went 6 inches of snow on the ground with no end in site, I’d declare this modification complete. Really can’t say that without a few hundred miles on it. 

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