Wintersdark

Yeah, for sure. It's a pretty physically hard job too, which takes a substantial physical toll, through wear and tear and injuries. Kind of racing my aging body to retirement, but there's no options really. It's ensuring my kids can go to school and have better opportunities, so it's worth it. I can't believe they cut ER doc pay, that's insane. In the middle of a pandemic, at much increased personal risk, they get paid less? Crazy. How do they justify that? Hell, why would they do it in the first place?

My MT07 had exactly the same clunk, it's from the rotors. I worried at it for ages, as I've rebuilt MANY old 80's bikes and I'm very familiar with shot steering head bearings. Took getting a buddy to stand on the bike with the front brake squeezed and rock back and forth when I was right down by the wheel to realize what was happening. My Tracer(2019, got it in November, after two years with the 2018 MT07) has it too. It's got a 5 year warranty though, so I'm not really into flashing it. I had a 2wdw flash on my MT07 with a Black Widow exhaust, and that really improved the jerkiness there - on the MT07 most of it is the fuel injector decel cut. That's a thing on the Tracer too but with the slipper clutch(why there's nearly no engine braking) and increased mass it has WAY less impact. But yeah, the Tracer feels *massively* more refined than the MT07 did, which is ostensibly good but... Well, that wildness is fun. But like I said, the 47 tooth sprocket makes a huge difference there.

The FJ09 has a short swingarm. The 2018+ has an extra 2" in swingarm length (and 59.1" vs 56.7" total wheelbase), which makes a very significant difference. You CAN wheelie with a stock Tracer, for sure, but you need to be deliberate about it. The MT07 doesn't accelerate faster than the FJ/Tracer, not at all, but it sure as hell feels a lot faster. What happens is a combination of the short 55" wheelbase, sub-400lb weight, super torquey twin just makes the bike launch forward. And up. It's easy to power wheelie in first and second, and it'll wheelie in first, second, and third as you shift if you're just riding aggressively, but not even trying to. Particularly if you (like everyone does) switch out the throttle tube for an R6 tube (45 degree twist idle to WOT instead of 90 degree) In all honesty, the MT07 was the single most fun bike I've ever ridden. Just a blast. I still want to get an XSR700 for booting about town, if I could justify the cost I can't recommend them enough to people. Not a good bike for long rides, as the seat is brutal, and they're fairly small and cramped for a big guy like me, but damn. So fun. Definitely give one a test ride sometime, they're fantastic. And yeah, mine is in A mode all the time. Literally all the time. I played around with STD and B in the winter, but ultimately found B made the bike feel just broken, and STD seemed kind of pointless (if I yank on the throttle, I want it to go thank you very much).

Yeah, that's my thinking too. Sadly, I've never been able to convince everyone else to go to slower rotations. "It's so much harder when you get used to a shift!" they say. Yeah, no. Never getting used to a sleeping schedule is way worse overall; you just feel like bloody garbage all the time. I don't actually mind night shifts at all, in fact I kind of like them, but the changes are horrible every time. We used to do 10 hour shifts, 4 on/3 off, which was wonderful. Even the nights where 3pm-1am, which was pretty fine even with the kids being kids. Doing 12 hours nights, though, is really rough when the little buggers are up and screaming before I'm in bed. And really, it's not like I can ask them to STFU, as, well, they're kids and it's the middle of the day. Ah well, it's life. But it does result in my being up and about at what amounts to wholly random times. It also makes for a lot of riding at kind of oddball times, so I never have to deal with traffic - always a plus.

I do super awesome rotating shift work, 12 hour shifts, switching between 7am-7pm and 7pm-7am every two weeks. What is sleep?

It was a major issue I had with the Tracer after I traded my MT07 in, that it simply lacked the wildness of acceleration that the MT07 had. It for sure accelerated significantly faster, but it felt slower. The sprocket change fixed that right up. I'd argue you'd get similar results with an ECU flash as by stock the fueling is pretty lean at idle until it gets into closed loop mode. This kinda damps down the initial kick off the line. I've got a "Booster Plug" on the way, which purports to tell the ECU it's 20C colder and thus run 6% richer and fix that+smooth out the idle/low rpm low throttle irritability the CP3 has, at a much lower cost than an ECU flash and (importantly for me) not voiding parts of the warranty as it's quick and easy to remove.

No. TCS 2 prevents any difference in wheel speed (no wheelies at all, really), TCS 1 still watches both but allows limited slip - either light spin on the rear or about two beer cans worth of wheelie, then it'll bring the front down gently. An interesting observation I made this morning on my way home from work. Was doing stoplight to stoplight drag races with a BMW R9T, and discovered two things. With the 47 tooth rear, even on a gentle launch with the front well planted, and my 300lb bulk forward on the tank, nothing in the back, at WOT in first at 6500-7000rpm the front will lift, like clockwork. No sudden throttle increase, no clutch play, just WOT once RPMs hit that point it's enough straight torque to lift the front. TCS1 kicks in there and you just sort of hover a bit, but yeah. Also, the Tracer(with said sprocket, at least) out-accelerates the R9T, reliably, by a fair margin. Fun times!

Not to my knowledge, but I haven't looked. I just never assume local manufacturing is better - I've worked in manufacturing my whole life, and I know better. But even if we did make batteries here in Canada, that'd be the absolute last factor for me in deciding which to buy - after brand reliability, specs, and price.

Hah to be fair, these guys have a person in the back and *way* low tire pressure to get those goldwings up. Otherwise, they just spin the tires, no amount of technique beats the physics there.

I used this one: RAM® Torque™ Large Rail Base Details and specifications of the RAM® Torque™ Large Rail Base... and it fits perfectly on the bars.

Keep in mind, the 2018+ Tracer's have an extra 2" in swingarm length. This has a substantial impact on wheelies. TBH, I find it's pretty flat around 4k rpm. That's very low for the CP3, it likes to be revved and 4k is barely beyond lugging it. I recently swapped to a 47 (stock is 45) tooth rear sprocket and that made all the difference for me. Coming from the MT07 as well, before the acceleration at <5000 RPMs was disappointing. You get past that fast, and it'd accelerate WAY harder afterwards, but that early bit was really disappointing. The 47 tooth rear sprocket fixes that, both in resultant power at low RPMs and in that you get to higher RPMs quicker.

I'm running a mineral hydraulic oil (with the ISO rating they recommend), mostly because: A: It's exactly what the manual said to use if you can't use their oil, and B: it's like $8 for 5 liters at the local Canadian Tire. More B than A

I keep mine precisely adjusted because it impacts how the bike tracks when my hands are off the bars. Of course, you compensate for a slightly off rear tire by shifting your weight a bit and probably don't notice it, but it bothers me. I prefer my bikes to track perfectly straight, so in a neutral centered position hands off the bike rides perfectly straight. Even minor deviations impact this pretty significantly. "But if you don't take your hands off the bars it's irrelevant." Well, not so much. Either you constantly providing a minor control input, or again are riding off-center. Either way is annoying. I'm pretty indifferent to minor chain wear because I love how new chains look, but I'm very, very interested in exactly how my bike rides.

This is key. I figure a lot of the complaints are people not doing this. The bolts are not all the same. The washers are definitely not all the same. The photos in the first posts show a missing spacer washer - mine at least came with a washer perfectly sized to fit between those points. Gotta figure out which are which, and install it properly.

Tutoro, wrote a review for it here: I like it, as it's fully automatic, but with no electronics or vacuum tie-ins. Completely hassle-free, no electrical load, and no real potential for problems - if it fails in some way, even catastrophically, the worse thing that'll happen is that it spills a little bit of oil. I need it in the winter for sure - otherwise I'm cleaning my chain twice a week. But to be honest, I love it - I've not cleaned or lubed my chain since ~March, and it stays nicely clean lubed pretty much all the time. I'm experimenting with lower flow rates now that we're more in summer, but probably need to turn it back up a bit as even when it's hot here, it's not really hot.

Installed "fjr" style footpegs. Ordered these months ago, had entirely forgotten about them. I'm endlessly baffled why Yamaha felt it necessary to rivet on the left peg. I mean, if you're gonna do it, do both, right? Why just one? Ah whatever, I'm always up for a chance to bust out the angle grinder.

Really? Interesting; that could make for a fun road trip if borders ever open again.

Hah yeah; it fits but *juuuuust* barely. Gives lots of adjustment range over the life of the chain though. When I replace my chain, I'll probably go up two teeth because I think a brand new chain may be a bit too tight. The tricky part with custom seats is you really need to have a builder you can personally visit, or you're really rolling the dice. That said, there are a few really well known US based shops that seem to do consistently good work - not too helpful for us Canadian sorts, though, as that pushes the price waaaay up. I've found though that you can have an upholstery shop make modifications to your existing seat pretty cheaply - typically around $150CDN with a new cover and all, and they seem to have lots of experience with motorcycle seats and will work with you (test ride, make changes, test ride, repeat). I haven't done this on either of my new Yammies yet, but did on my old 80's bikes to great success (though every one of them started with a way more comfortable seat!)

Oooh I got the same one! Love it. Absolutely love it. It's just enough to put the acceleration into "Weeeeeeeeee!" range, and to help keep the RPM's a bit higher in 6th. Sure, first is a bit shorter, but will still take you to 80kph.

This should be because they sleep when not in use. There's (usually) a reed switch that's triggered by rotation and wakes the sensor, so you get better battery life than if they transmit constantly.

Yeah, but it bears noting that the scan tool in question is actually very inexpensive. A basic handheld scan tool and adapter is like $30 on ebay, or as I posted elsewhere you can use a bluetooth dongle and adapter. That said, the scan tool gives you APS percentages, but the service manual specifies specific numbers that you won't see unless you use the proper Yamaha Diagnostic Tool, which is stupid expensive.

You still have to remove everything anyways, at least once, as you'll never get the manometer vacuum lines attached with the airbox in place - and the leftmost one is still kind of hard even with the airbox removed! I suppose if you had the Motion Pro tool and set up remote vacuum connections (permanent lines out from the throttle bodies to an externally accessible location that you could then cap) then you'd be able to do a sync without stripping down the bike... But really, I question if it'd be worth the hassle. I've never found those angled drivers to be very pleasant to use, and while this looks like a lot of work to get all the plastics off, it's actually pretty quick and easy once you've done it and are familiar with what goes where.

I made a post about doing the throttle body sync here: Getting at the airbox is basically the same; just stop after you remove the ECU and open the airbox rather than removing it. Seems like it's a big deal, and it takes a long time the first time you do it, but it's actually very simple. Gotta remove a lot of plastics but it's really easy to do. Just need to be coordinated about which screws go with which panels, as they all have their own different fasteners.

Also, that Hordpower airbox on the MT07 looks amazing. I'd love one on my Tracer.

They are noisier than the stock tires for sure. I'll note: With Road 4's and 5's, my experience has been that you're much better served keeping the front higher pressure than lower. The dual compound is excellent for getting high mileage and good cornering grip, but if you run the front tire at a lower pressure it likes to wear kind of badly, resulting in vibration when cornering. I used to use them in winter riding (before getting proper winters) and of course you run pressures lower there, but that meant every winter effectively ended a front tire even if it had good tread left. Just my experience with them, anyways.