Wintersdark

Yeah, hell, you can even put a spare clutch cable on your bike anywhere. Don't need the sheathing, just the inside cable itself, which coils up nice and flat and small. I keep a universal replacement cable long enough to replace a broken clutch or throttle cable with an assortment of screw on ferrules in my toolkit all the time. "Sadly" since carrying them, I've not needed to replace my own cables (I lube and inspect cables frequently) but I've given them to others on group rides a couple times. At $5, it's pretty much a no brainer. Have a hydraulic clutch fail, and you're kinda screwed. Here: Sorry! Something went wrong!

No. That's actually kind of an opposite approach. The Booster Plug adds a second air intake temperature sensor to run together with the stock sensor. This causes the ECU to read the outside air temperature as 20C/68F lower, and thus the ECU adds roughly 6% more fuel. However - and this is the important part - it only does when the bike is running in Open Loop mode. That is, at idle, under partial throttle, and under hard acceleration, where it's not using the O2 sensor at all. Otherwise, such as when you're cruising about at speed the bike moves to closed loop mode and adjusts the air/fuel mixture as per the O2 sensor's responses. This prevents wasting fuel and running richer all the time. So, the difference in riding is that you get more fuel at idle for a cooler, steadier idle, and providing much better throttle response off idle. As well, low speed travel either at idle or at very minimal throttle is also significantly smoothed out - making riding at a walking pace with the clutch fully engaged nice and smooth.

Honestly, the Booster Plug. Or a flash, I think? But that's the big improvement the Booster Plug offers. I'm also running a 47 tooth rear sprocket (thus higher RPM at any given speed), so that's a consideration, but I was before installing it - and @2WHLOZK just installed one with a stock sprocket(I think?). It's really easy to hold 50-60kph (30-35ish mph). No lugging feeling at all anymore - the biggest improvement I noticed with the plug is that you can move along at idle, no throttle at all, smoothly. Before, doing that was a herky jerky mess. I get this all the time. After I've been out riding on a new road, I'll take my wife and kids out in our Jeep. It's a totally different process, as I'm not picking lines and setting up for corners taken at silly speeds. Almost feels like completely different roads. When I'm riding, I scan the sides of the roads for potential threats (typically, animals) but otherwise I'm pretty focused on the road itself: angles, banking, surface quality, etc. I don't see much else, unless I pull over.

You for sure can get a flash that corrects these issues, as a flash is way more that just fuel mapping. That's going to depend entirely on who's making the flash though. I'd argue the plug's not as good as a flash because it cannot turn off the injector fuel decel cutoff which you certainly can (and I have) disabled during a flash. However, a flash will certainly void aspects of warranty, and obviously costs a lot more and typically involves a chunk of downtime. Particularly as a Canadian, shipping your ECU to the US and back is about $100 before you even look at the cost of the flash, and can randomly come with really long border waits and the dreaded fear of it just being lost in customs. With that said, while the Booster Plug is indeed much narrower in scope (basically, idle, idle to throttle transitions, and partial throttle at low speed/low rpm only) it does what it does pretty well. It's not so much a performance mod like a flash (can) be, but it's definitely a rideability improvement and if that's your goal, it's the right product. BTH at this point I feel the Plug isn't amazing - I'm not as sold as @2WHLOZK is - but it *is* a good product that does what it says on the tin. Interestingly, I found that you get the best improvements in B and STD mode, and I was kind of expecting it to be more of an improvement in A mode. In retrospect, I figure this is because A is abrupt by design so while it smooths the transitions and such, it's not so noticable. But it makes B mode in particular ride WAY better, because that stutter was really noticeable when followed by how gentle B is.

Hah yeah, same for me. I've been wanting to get more testing in with the plug, and I've got a stack of garage projects to do, but it's way to hot to want to spend any time doing that right now. I hate that I can't get a nice, air conditioned vest that I plug into my heated gear ports. I mean, I'd rather have the heat than cooling, what with how short our summers are and how bloodly long the winters are, but really, why isn't this a thing? You'd think with the hundreds of millions of Americans riding around in way worse heat for way longer, they'd have figured this stuff out.

It's definitely smoother at really low speed, and much smoother when just putting along at idle with no throttle - before, doing that was a horribly lunging jerky mess, so I'd just not do it at all and slip the clutch instead. Can't say I noticed less engine braking, but I've never felt the Tracer has much engine braking anyways (a tip of the hat to the slipper clutch); certainly nowhere near what my MT07 had. I wasn't doing any spirited twisty riding, though, just local neighborhood speed-limit riding as I was most focused on low speed/low rpm performance. Off-idle throttle response is indeed snappier. The only difference there (for me anyways) is in the initial transition, but not from a clutched stop(which is all about throttle & clutch control) but rather if you're just idling along at zero throttle or just-barely-any-throttle at low speed and snap the throttle open, it *#$king goes. I thought it'd be the other way around, but I find this has the most impact in B mode, then STD, and minimally in A mode. I suspect this is due to how the fueling is set up (particularly in A), where it's abrupt by design. What's interesting is the Booster Plug makes B mode feel way less broken. It's still super-nanny-mode, but the idle to throttle transition is significantly improved. It doesn't make them faster, but it makes the transition much smoother. With that said, it's of pretty minimal value to me as I ride in A mode basically all the time.

Thanks for the explanation! This, though, this is something I feel really strongly about. Measures taken to actually reduce speed, where reducing speed is the goal (not revenue generation) - that's what really should be focused on. We've got a lot of intersection cameras here. They aren't average speed, they're just instantaneous checks when your car is in the intersection, and there are clear signs saying they're present. These are awesome. These slow traffic down through high risk areas, and because they're well identified, people aren't slamming on their brakes - they just drive slower through those areas. I'm 100% for that. I ride through two on my commute every day, and I have no problem slowing down for them - though I tend to go through most intersections at or near the speed limit anyways, because people run red lights and I've personally witnessed more than a couple bikes t-bone cars in intersections when the bike had the right of way. That's much more effective at getting me to slow down in an area that they've identified as high risk than the potential that a cop *may* be nearby and *may* notice me. Admittedly, this is still a ticket thing, but instead of being created as a revenue generator, it's created as a serious means to get people to slow down. And it works.

This has always been my approach. I won't give them a specific number. If they ask, I say I wasn't looking which is easy because the dash is wholly outside of my field of view if I don't specifically look down. I do always know how fast I'm going, though. I always own that I was speeding though, and am humble and polite. Usually something along the lines of "Sorry sir, such a beautiful day and I haven't had a chance to get out on the bike in a while, kinda let the zoomies go to my head." Then, as I get haraunged, I listen, acknowledge and agree with everything they say. Even if they're objectively wrong - you can always tell the cops who do ride from those who don't. And try to say as little as possible otherwise, as the more I open my mouth, the more likely I am to piss them off and end up with a ticket. I've got ~28 years of riding or so now, usually at absolutely absurd speeds, and haven't had a speeding ticket since I was about 19. Been stopped quite a few times, but always let off with a warning - even this last time in April doing ~210 in an 80 zone. Helps, I think, that when they ask I've been riding for decades (and clearly solely riding, as I don't have a car license) and have a clean drivers record. Ironically it's only clean because they elect to give me a warning rather than change that. We have photo radar setups ("Average speed cameras"? Are these different from normal photo radar setups? What's the "average" part of that?) - sometimes vans, sometimes SUV's, or even occasionally pickups. But the upside is: They're required by law now to have their hazard lights on, which makes them much more visible parked on the side of the road. It means they catch fewer people, but it does result in people slowing down, which is the ultimate goal anyways. Also, Maps shows their locations. Really handy app to have running while speeding about TBH, I never do the speed limit except in school/playground zones. Always (in KPH mind) 10-20 over. I mean, 50kph is slooooooow. I almost never ride downtown, though - I try to *never* go downtown in any city, really, as it's just terrible to drive or ride in packed downtown situations. How fast I actually ride depends heavily on the traffic as I won't go screaming through traffic splitting lanes and weaving between cars. I'll typically just ride at the speed of traffic if there's not easy room to move through it, and just slightly higher if there is. However, if there's few cars, then... yeah. Zoom zoom time.

Wat?

Mine worked fine right away, 2019 GT. In this order: 1) Key off. Make sure Torque/OBDLink is fully closed (not just in the background) 2) Plug adapter in, and MX+ into adapter. 3) Key on 4) Press pairing button on adapter 5) Pair your phone with the adapter 6) Start bike 7) Open Torque, select adapter from settings to connect. I find it has trouble connecting if I load Torque before starting the bike. It'll see the adapter but not be able to connect properly. So, going forward after pairing, start the bike, then open your app and connect.

I've got mine installed, and been on a few shorter test rides. It's something for low-throttle and initial acceleration, so it's not really something you can test on longer rides. This is because it only has an impact when the bike is in open-loop mode; where it's not utilizing the O2 sensor to maintain AFR. Once the bike is in closed-loop, it doesn't GAF what the temp sensor says anymore. Now, I've flashed bikes too, not this one of course but my MT07 got a 2WDW flash. So, with that said: It's not as good as a flash - it's much more limited in scope. It basically only smooths out idle, initial acceleration and partial throttle situations. This is of course the primary complaint about the bike, however, that it's jerky/lurchy/unhappy running at low speeds, but it doesn't fix anything else. Thus, if a flash is an option (that is, if budget and warranty allow) then flashing is simply a better choice. However, it's significantly cheaper than a flash, and is removable in about 10 minutes so there's no warranty implications. It does do what it says on the tin. However... Not a lot. At least, I think. I need to do a couple more rides, disconnect it and run a couple more to be sure. It's (at least IMHO) not a night-and-day difference or shocking improvement. It may be on an older FJ, though - the Tracer's fuelling (stock) is a lot smoother to start with. Sadly, it's been grossly hot here. Rides in the heat (well, heat for us: 30C/86Fish) are fine when you're moving, but it's unbearably sucky puttering about slowly in town. Makes testing kind of a PITA.

Yeah, the base springs are super soft (like for a 140lb rider) and often the stock suspension settings are squishy as well. When I bought mine, I could bottom out the forks by braking. While I don't have my new springs yet (lost in the mail and refunded, alas) having set up the suspension at least stops the diving.

I just got mine as well, but haven't had time to install it yet. Definitely interested in how it works for you!

Man, those are *huge*. Wow

Eh, they're cheap enough that I'm fine with replacing them every two years. They're not what I'd choose for adventure riding, as they're not grippy, but they're great for street riding and way more comfortable than the stockers. I've run cheap pegs on a number of bikes I've thrashed waaaaay harder than I ever will my Tracer and never had one break. If you hit one in a direction it can't fold back from while riding, even slow, yeah it'll break for sure: you've got a massive amount of, er, mass behind that motion. But they're not going to break from body weight. They're every bit as sturdy as the stock pegs.

That's a problem, as the left side pivot pin is rivetted in place and needs to be cut off. You'll need another pivot pin.

Even with the stock CC, shifting while under cruise control is super sketchy. I use mine regularly in 4th-6th - I use it more to hold "no speeding tickets plz" speeds in town than elsewhere, where I just ride too fast always. But yeah, shifting while CC is running is A Bad Thing. If you clutch and shift, clutch disables the CC, but via quickshifter it just kind of freaks out.

To test to be sure, don't use the rear brake and, at reasonable speed, hit the front on dirt. See if it turns on. It generally will only trigger on the front if the front stops turning *while the back is turning*. It should not trigger during a stoppie as during a stoppie the front wheel is still turning. Activating ABS in this situation would be counterproductive as you'd increase braking distance. Edit:this is all pretty normal. On any reasonably sport centric bike (that isn't insanely heavy or long anyways) on dry pavement you'll always lift the rear before losing traction on the front. Thus ultimately in any maximized braking scenario, your braking performance is limited to (basically) 1G, at which point the forces forwards are overcoming gravity and you just roll over the front wheel. If you just grab a fistful of front you can break it loose, but if you apply braking pressure gradually (like you always and only should) you shouldn't be able to lose traction in normal, straight line circumstances.

Ran into a guy with a cb1100ex just last week. Really cool looking bike. Sorry to hear about your loss there. But, that said, welcome to the club!

140F? 60C? I literally cannot imagine. I work in upwards of 50C, but... Not in leathers and a helmet. How do you not die doing that? There'd be no way to cool off at all; the air is so far above body temp you'd be riding in a bloody blast furnace. And actually keep your brain working to ride at that level while doing it? The mind boggles.

Any recommendations on such tents? Particularly in terms of being quick to set up/tear down?

Yup. Like @keithu I've never adjusted final gearing on a bike. In fact, I've never replaced a rear sprocket on a bike excepting during initial rebuild on ragged-on old bikes, which just got stock sprockets as... well, why change something when you haven't ridden the bike yet? Despite riding a lot, if you take care of sprockets, they last a very, very long time. Also, lots of shaft drive in my history. It's clearly highly personal though. To me, acceleration is critically important, and I'm totally indifferent to cruising RPM. I'm happy cruising at 8k, if need be - and that's where I was fine holding my MT07 at 100mph for hours at a time. But acceleration... I'm WOT from a roll at least once every single day. I'm still kind of gloaty about absolutely spanking that (shockingly sexy) BMW R9T 😃 What stands out to me is what a significant difference to the total feel of the bike, at all speeds and RPM ranges, a small gearing change makes. I can't believe I've never done that before. It's super cheap, too, a 15 minute change. It's clearly one of those low-cost simple gems that have an absolutely outstanding impact on how a bike feels. TBH, I'm kind of considering going down a tooth in the front as well, because... well. Teehee!

I've taken mine on half a dozen or so 1000km day trips, and am really quite happy with it. Sadly, COVID has gotten in the way of my beloved trips south of the border this year, so I haven't done a weekend trip yet. The seat isn't great (but it's not terrible either) - but the bike itself in terms of ergonomics is quite good. There's a fair amount of customizability - you can change the seat height, you can flip the handlebar risers to move them forward or backwards an inch or so. I certainly enjoy my bigger rides, and feel good afterwards, but I *am* eventually going to do something about that seat. The windshield is hot garbage. I don't care about this, and just leave it in it's lower position (upper position causes a lot of head buffeting) but if wind is a problem for you, you'll probably want to look into a larger aftermarket windscreen. There's a *LOT* of talk about windscreens in the forums here, so I'll leave you with a recommendation to search if they're important to you. The stock suspension is decent, but pretty undersprung. I'd say it's sprung for someone in the 65kg/140lb range, realistically. For me, this is a problem (I've got upgraded springs coming - turns out $200 gets you fork springs and a rear shock spring), but it really depends on what you weight obviously. The forks are fully adjustable, and the rear has preload and rebound adjustments. I'm 193cm, 136kg (6'4" 300lb).

Honestly, I've no idea. But they're actually quite useful for attaching controls/switches/mounts and such.

Those are enormous! I've been planning a solo expedition myself for some time (plans delayed by the *$&@ing plague) but this is something I hadn't considered, but am now giving some really serious thought to. I'm not interested in swapping out the stock hardcases personally, however, some sort of small fold-out table would be very welcome if I do go the camping route. Something I've noted with my Tracer is that it makes a very, very poor table/chair as it stands, everything is sloped, angled, or otherwise just not good for holding on to anything, but I also don't want to bring along much extra stuff as tearing through twisties is critical to fun