Wintersdark

What madness is this!? A another 'local' FJ? I thought mine and the Blackfoot tech's where the only ones in the province! That brings us to three!

Yeah, if you're not looking to do the sync, this is a good way to get under there. This is how I did it on MT07, but there's no way in hell I'd be able to get the vacuum ports caps off with the airbox still on, and definitely not hook up the manometer. Not to mention how it'd be basically impossible to reach the adjustment screws, even with a 90 degree driver. I figure at that point - where you've got all the fairings off already, so the bulk of the work is done - you may as well just take the other two screws off, rotate the tank, and remove the airbox so you can just reach vacuum ports and adjustment screws directly. Saving 10 minutes by just levering up the tank so you can fight in a tiny space seems counterproductive.

Fair enough; I was going by what I read with regards to the "master" TB; my knowledge of FI bikes is a lot more limited, as the vast majority of my experience is with carbed bikes. I'm interested, then, what is the alternate procedure? Particularly because mine's pretty much at it's limit - the #1 cylinder is the marked one, but the #2 is raised as high as it can go (screw topped out, can decrease the vacuum, but not increase it further) so this may be an issue in the future.

I noticed this immediately when I bought my Tracer. It came with stock Dunlops, which I hadn't used in probably a decade or more. They felt enormously different from the Michelins I've been running for the last few years. I initially assumed it was just how the Tracer handled, though I swapped over to my winters pretty early on (which have their own handling eccentricities) and forgot all about it. I don't even really know how to describe it, but they definitely feel very, very different. I wish tires weren't so expensive, as I'd really love to just swap tires all the time to experience all the different types. But I really like my Road 5's, and really don't want to invest $500 in a pair of tires I end up not liking.

I definitely need to replace the bolts on my light bar. Man, did that chinesium ever rust. Yikes.

Figured I'd leave this here, as other links appear broken. If you're looking for the Adventure pegs in Canada, the MT09 ones are no longer sold as a kit, and the SCR950 ones (which are the same) are now available here: Adventure Foot Pegs - Yamaha Motor Canada Not too bad at $150CDN shipped. Not cheap either, but they're nice pegs and OEM.

Probably what @skipperT said with regards to throttle body sync. Mine's fine at 30mph/50kph, but before I did the sync it was pretty reluctant to stay at 30kph. It wasn't much of an issue, as it's only school zones where I'm gonna hold that slow for any length of time, but it's much better now post-throttle body sync.

Remove the vacuum caps off the throttle body vacuum ports: A little wiggle with your needle nosed pliers, and they'll pop right off. Easy as pie; don't drop them - they absolutely need to go back on when you're done. They're here: Note that the leftmost one is hiding behind that bracket. Connect your manometer/vacuum gauge: One lead to each port. Hang your manometer up where you can see it - the Carbtune Pro comes with a strap to hang it off a handlebar, but I prefer to hang it from the rafters in my garage so it's a little easier for me to read. It does need to be upright and reasonably level, though, don't lay it down. I marked each hose with different colored tape - this isn't really important, just be sure you know how they're connected and ideally connect them in order so it's pretty obvious what you need to adjust. Start the bike up, and let it idle till it hits operating temp. If using a Carbtune Pro, be sure to RTFM and use the restrictors to even out the readout, or the bars will bounce a lot. Still usable, for sure, but it's a lot easier with the restrictors in the hoses. Sync your throttle bodies: Note that one of the three adjustment screws (just left of the marked vacuum ports) is painted white. Mine is the leftmost (#1?) but it may be different on your bike. This is the master it's determined on assembly by the "alternate method" below, and is the weakest cylinder - you need to de-tune the other cylinders to match this one. So, DON'T TOUCH THE WHITE PAINTED SCREW. Your objective here is to get the bouncy bars all as equal as possible. The actual vacuum shown doesn't really matter, just that they are equal. If you turn a screw clockwise, you'll cause that bar to go up; turn it counter clockwise and that bar will go down. Very small turns have very big effects, after any turn (I recommend 1/8th of a turn increments) quickly rev the bike a couple times to get the new setting to settle in. I find three quick half second revs does the job well. Side note: This bike is *LOUD* when revved without the airbox on. Holy cow. Loud. Even with the stock exhaust. The closer you can get them, the better. Even small bits out can lead to excessive vibration, particularly around 5000rpm, and if it's really far out you'll start getting a rough idle. Alternative Method (what to do if you can't make the primary method work): (Thanks to @skipperT for this!) turn all the screws in clockwise until they gently seat. This will cause each cylinder to pull the most vacuum it can. Then, whichever cylinder pulls the least vacuum is your new master, and you turn the other two screws counterclockwise to decrease them until they all match. The goal of both of these methods is that you should have your weakest cylinder "wide open" (screwed all the way in) to achieve the maximum possible vacuum that's still balanced in each cylinder. (Green strap is Just In Case. I've never dropped a tank, but I don't want there to be a first time) Once you're all done, as they say in those repair manuals, "installation is the reverse of removal." Remove your manometer Put the vacuum caps back on Reinstall the airbox - don't forget it's two breathers, and be careful with the intake boots Reinstall the ECU Replace the gas tank (don't forget the two drain hoses, and be careful of the fuel hose when twisting the tank back.) Replace the narrow side panels, this time sliding them up and forward to get those tabs into their slots, then press the velcro in. Replace the scoops/inner panels, being sure to feed the indicator light wires back through their respective holes. Replace the top tank cover Replace the side covers, remembering of course to connect the indicators. Put the seat back on, and you're golden. Enjoy your feelings of accomplishment.

Remove the narrow side panels along the bottom of the tank: These are kind of entertaining. See, there's a plastic pin at the front you need to pull out, and a screw at the back.... But in the middle? Velcro! Seriously. So, remove the screw, pull the front outwards to release the pin, then pull the top of the panel midway along it's length away to release the velcro. Then, there's another metal tab - you slide the whole panel (keeping the velcro detached) backwards and down a little bit. See photos. It's really easy, but... Weird. Velcro. Move the gas tank: The goal here is to release the gas tank, and rotate it 180 degrees, putting it on the tail of the bike. Make sure you've got a blanket/towel/stuff on the tail to protect paint, plastics, and such from metal edges and possibly drips of gas. First, you'll need to remove one screw on either side of the front of the tank, and two screws on the base (under the seat) to be able to move the tank. I removed the tank protector pad (as it's not there in the photos) but this was unnecessary. Just leave it on. Once you can lift the tank, there are two drain hoses on the bottom that lead out down the left side of the engine. This was probably the hardest part of the whole job for me, as my hands are huge and I couldn't get the tank up far... and being full of gas, it was heavy and hand-crushing. Still, they're just basic hoses, just get your pliers on the clamps and pull them off. Rotate the tank, put in on the bikes tail on a towel or whatever. Be very careful about the fuel outlet and wiring still connected to the tank - there's plenty of hose/wire to do this, but you want to be sure you don't have the tank resting on the fuel pump outlet. Breaking that would be a bad time. I propped mine up with a block of wood. Remove the airbox: Pull the ECU out from it's slot in the airbox about an inch or so. There's squeeze release tabs on the underside of each connector, this lets you get a good grip on them. Mine where tight and hard to remove. Disconnect, pull the ECU out and CAREFULLY put it somewhere SAFE AND SECURE, for god's sake don't drop it. Your bike is a brick without it. Remove the tree mounting screws (sides and front) then loosen off the three hose clamps holding the intake boots onto the throttle bodies. Do not fully remove the screws or it'll be a huge pain in the ass (ask me how I know), just loosen them. Along the left side of the airbox is the crankcase breather tube. Disconnect it, then start pulling the airbox up. Be careful of the intake boots, they should just slide off the throttle bodies. Don't pry at them, if they don't want to let go, make sure the clamps are loose and give them a wiggle. Once you get the airbox coming up, there's a drain tube on the underside. Pop it off with your needle nosed pliers, and you can lift the airbox out. Once the airbox is removed, reconnect the ECU, and just keep it off to the side. I used masking tape to tape it to the handlebars, but whatever, just so it's connected but not in the way. Ok, we're almost ready to actually sync the throttle bodies! To the next post!

Ok! There are lots of guides for this around, however, I find most are actually for an MT09, or older FJ09. The actual procedure for syncing the throttle bodies is the same, but how to get to your throttle bodies varies. In fact, the actual syncing of your throttle bodies is trivially easy, but the job is a fair bit of work because of how much there is to tear down to get to them. So; here's my guide to doing that on the (in this case, 2019) Tracer 900 GT! Getting Started: You'll only need minimal tools here, 4mm and 5mm allen keys, a small flathead screwdriver, a pair of needle nosed pliers, and a manometer. I strongly recommend the Morgan Carbtune Pro from here: Morgan Carbtune - carburetor synchronizer for balancing motorcycle carbs Carbtune motorcycle carburetor synchronizers;polycarbonate tool... Edit: That link appears to be broken. Here's a working one: https://www.carbtune.com/ Put the bike on the centerstand, and remove the seat. No pictures here, because lazy. It's a bit easier to manhandle the tank around if it's not full of gas, too, but it's not the end of the world if it's mostly full. Be careful of being RIGHT full, though, because you're going to be disconnecting the overflow, and if tipped too much it may leak out the overflow outlet. Mine was probably 90% full because I'm impulsive and dumb, and it wasn't a problem at all. Remove the side panels. Each has three weird little Ikea Furniture Style Cam Screw Thingies. Two on the front, one on the back. Release the screws, pull the top of the panel outwards to release the plastic pushpin inside, and then pull the panel down to unhook it from the tab on the bottom. Disconnect the indicator lead, and that's it. Obviously, there's two of these panels Remove top tank trim: This plastic bit has two screws in the middle, and three of those stupid bodywork pins on each side. Remove the screws, and use your 4mm allen driver or some other poky tool to push the center part of the pin in to release it, then you should be able to pull them right out. Once all six pins and the two screws are out, you can just pop it off the tank cowlings. Remove tank side cowlings: Note that the "scoop" and the lower inside panel are removed as a single unit. Remove the two screws on top of the tank, and (on each inside panel) two screws, one regular bodywork pin on the front (just under the headlight) and one unique "phillips head" bodywork pin near the bottom. This last is removed via a JIS screwdriver (or phillips, I guess), turning about a quarter turn counterclockwise and allowing the head to pop up. Then it's pried off like the other bodywork pins. It's reinstalled with a screwdriver, too, vs. the normal body pin method of popping the inner tab out. Anyways, feed the signal indicator lead back through it's hole, and the whole inside panel/tank scoop unit will come off. To be continued!

From my perspective, I've ridden exclusively 30 year old or older bikes for 25 years of my riding history, and frankly shit breaks/falls off regularly on those. Calling for a tow always cost more than I could afford, so that wasn't an option either. I either fixed it/rigged it up to be usable, or walked. So, it's sort of a habit. Now, as I'm maintenance obsessed, it's basically unheard of to have any kind of breakdown. Certainly hasn't happened since riding new bikes with warranties! However, I ride with a lot of people with no concept of proper maintenance, and whose bikes sit over the looooong winter neglected. So, at least once a year, I get to bust out my toolkit and fix someone's bike on the side of the road. What's happened in the last couple years: Tire Troubles: Guy needing a new tire. Pull the tire off his bike, then ride it into a nearby shop to have a replacement mounted. This saves a tremendous amount of money (and time) in towing and obviously mount+balance on loose rims is significantly cheaper. Broken cables: Replaced a clutch cable on the side of the road. With universal replacement kits you can cover basically any bike's control cables - and the kit's $5 and super tiny. Now, these should never break, given even basic maintenance, but yet here we are. Electrical fixes: Lots. I carry a knife, cutters, electrical tape, and some random wire + alligator clips. Fixed a broken clutch switch. Roadside repairs on electrical happen fairly often if you ride with guys on old bikes. Mechanical fixes: Snug up a loose muffler on the new exhaust on a Harley. It was well along it's way to falling right off the bike. I mean, really, now, I don't need the toolkit. I'm rarely outside of cell coverage, and I can afford a tow. My bike's well maintained and new. But old habits die hard, and it's handy to be That Guy on the bike trip who can actually fix shit, as if it's not you, it's probably not going to be any of them either. And if nobody can fix things, trips can get screwed up pretty fast.

Spent a lot of time on YouTube, then set up my suspension. It's definitely improved now; but I absolutely need new springs to get to desired rider sag. However, some time with the rebound and compression settings and some test rides over a nearby badly winter damaged pothole filled road has resulted in a *much* improved ride. I'll take that. Also, synced the throttle bodies. That actually needed to be done, too; much less vibration and much smoother idle now. It hadn't changed since I bought the bike, so clearly despite *saying* they did "everything" for the first service, obviously they didn't do that. They didn't specifically say they did, though, so I suppose it's a gray area, despite being in the service schedule for end-of-break in service. Anyways, holy crap. Syncing the carbs on my old XJ750 was literally a 10 minute job. My MT07 was a 15 minute job. This took like an hour and a half. Actually doing the syncing was of course extremely fast, but getting there? That was a damn big job, digging endlessly into the machine. It was a good opportunity to clean in around and under surface panels, though, and really get familiar with how all that fits together.

A ratchet, with 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, and (soon, once I get it) 27mm socket all on a 1/4” threaded rod with a 3/8" coupling (like a long, hollow nut) that just happens to have a 14mm OD - just right for removing the front wheel together with a wrench. A pair of adjustable wrenches, a set of Allen keys, a JIS screwdriver. A Leatherman multitool. A pair of spare universal throttle/clutch cables (which I've never needed myself, but have used on other people's bikes more than once), tape, and zip ties. All in a tool roll that ends up barely larger than a beer can. I don't think there's a normal maintenance job I can't do with just these tools.

Global parts catalog? Is there a handy link for this? Sounds incredibly useful. Edit: Aha! Found it! Nevermind: YAMAHA Parts Catalogue Further Edit: Oh, man, you can sift through the part numbers for specific colorways. For example, the 2020 Tracer (non-GT; I didn't know there WAS a non-GT in 2020) has black lower panels and the side panels under the seat, so there's a source for that. The 2019 Tracer has the red lower side panels. I've seen a few parts catalogues (such as partzilla et al), but this is the first one that lets me find panels by colorway without having to guess at which part number is which color. Awesome.

This is my thinking. ADV bikes are really common here (KTM, and the Beemer and triumph entries in the space, with some vstroms too) but I always wonder: how many of them actually see dirt? I knew I wasn't planning on dirt riding at all, so extra ground clearance and such wasn't useful to me, and the sportiness of the Tracer was way better than useless offroad capability. Meanwhile, the annual group ride I do is full of pure sport bikes and riders who cry about sore backs and wrists. None got ahead of me on the MT07(which itself was way more comfortable than 600 and 1000 class sport bikes), and they certainly won't on the Tracer. I have got "grandpa bike" comments - which are usually directed at the "Klim wearing 1200GS/Tiger riders" - but imho the Tracer is a purely practical machine while still being very sport-capable.

Ah righto; I've seen those clamps, been curious about just how sturdy they are. Guess we'll find out!

Looking on their site, not sure which you ordered. Got a link?

Yeah, see, this is exactly what I'd want. I'm tempted to just buy them, then figure out what I need to do for bolts afterwards. Will see if I can get in contact with the seller - the ebay listing makes it look like the seller makes them, after all. If that's the case, he may be able to work something out.

Hmmm. I'd like a set of these, but I suspect it wouldn't be as straight forward because my crash bars also use that engine mount.

Yeah, that's where I put mine too, though I used 2 layers of bicycle innertube rubber instead as a shim. It was pretty solid, but still moved on me when I put weight on them. I'm sure it'd be fine if I only ever rested my feet on them, but I tend to stretch/push/stand/etc while riding as I cramp up pretty easily, and I'm straight up terrified of foot pegs moving.

Disclaimer: I run cheap ebay'd knock-off parts all the time, and under most circumstances have been quite happy with what I've got. I ordered a pair of these. I tried them, with several adaptations, and ended up throwing them away. The supplied clamp is utter garbage. Some people have gotten them to work, even really built up I couldn't get them to clamp onto my crash bars in a secure way that wouldn't suddenly rotate if I say stood on them and hit a bump. The pegs themselves are super cheap pot metal. They work, but they're pretty easy to break, and the paint chips off in big chunks pretty easily. To your question: The swivel part, the rectangular section between the peg and the clamp, is hollow. The clamps are just C shaped bits of metal bolted into those rectangular sections. I would absolutely NOT start drilling the rectangular chunks, because it's really shitty metal to start with and there is very little meat left once you account for the threaded holes for the mounting bolts. In short: I strongly recommend against doing anything with these at all. There's just not enough to work with in any useful fashion.

Bicycles are the worst, specifically for that. Gear is very limited at best and downright shitty in comparison, while you can still get up to speeds where you can be very badly injured... And, much like on a motorcycle, if you're a cautious rider you're much more likely to get hit by a car at speed than hit something. I'll take my heavy MC gear any day in such a circumstance. I get sometimes spiders/can-am's/slingshots/etc get a bad rep in motorcycle forums, but I think they're a really great option for people who aren't really up to the level of risk entailed with motorcycles, but still want that open air zoomy feeling. Also for people who just can't handle the physical rigors of riding anymore. @davec719 Thanks for sharing your story, and I'm glad you're recovering. That sounds like a really, really unpleasant time. @redfjniner Good lord, 3 deer and an antelope? That's bloody nuts. I've had my share of car accidents over the years, but the only animal I've ever hit was a sparrow at 120kph square on my chinbar. Basically exploded the bird, but wasn't much of anything to me other than utterly terrifying. But I've seen what deer do to cars.

Yeah, I'm really curious there. I got 15,000km/9300 miles on my last set, and they had a lot of room to spare (the rear in particular wasn't at the wear bars in the tread yet), but irritating cupping the front from running with low pressure over the winter. Now, that was on the MT07, so I'd expect a bit less thanks to the added weight, but... 5000 miles? Road 5's are praised practically everywhere for their longevity in basically every serious review or comparison. Meanwhile, my Tracer came with stock Dunlops that looked terrible at 800km, already sporting a flat spot. However, stock tires are often not the same as aftermarket ones labelled the same - sure didn't make me want to give another set of Dunlops a go however. That said, I'm riding primarily in Canada and the northern US (Montana, Idaho, etc), and the vast majority of my riding happens in relatively speaking colder weather. A hothothot summer day here is 30C (86F), and that's just a month of the year. Most riding is happening from 15-25C (59-77F). Road 5's are formulated for good grip at lower temperatures - hence excellent rain performance. Could just be that they're getting too hot in the Texas sun + riding heat, and wearing fast? Just spitballing.

Man, I'd so trade my grey kit for that red and black, in a heartbeat. Apparently, I'm the odd one out though

Post-winter oil change done! I still can't believe having Yamaha ship me an oil change kit was cheaper than buying the filter and oil locally or via Amazon. $50 for the filter, 3l of oil and a new crush washer (also gloves and funnel, actually) with free 3 day shipping. To the Americans in the group - yeah, oil, particularly MC oil is spendy here. Typically around $15/l. It's a downside of winter riding - all the cold starts is pretty hard on your oil, so it's a good practice to change it moving into spring. A side note. Wtf is it with Yamaha and stock oil filters being absolutely CRANKED onto the bike? Torque is supposedly 12ft-lbs for the filter, but every stock filter I've taken off has required basically total destruction of the filter in the process. Also, 32ft-lbs for the drain bolt? In that aluminum pan? Eeeeeeeh.