Wintersdark

Hell, even if you're spending money on totally pointless bling. I'm 100% behind Farkle Addition even if it's just cosmetic. Like your bellypan; I'm definitely gonna buy one at some point! - I just like to highlight in the case of exhaust changes in particular it's nearly always ultimately a cosmetic upgrade, and in my particular case when the smoke cleared I could have had an MT09 for the price of the MT07+exhaust+[unnecessary, in retrospect]airbox+tune, so a much better path if performance was the goal would have simply being going that way. On the other hand, if I just wanted the cool look and sound, well, there ya go. hah yeah; the Farkle Fun ends up being mostly a hobby in and of itself

I got one here in Canada for (iirc) $40. @mingo covered how they work. The one I bought had an extension, with a fifth wheel and another tray - you roll your rear tire onto the dolly, then deploy the side stand into the tray. I removed this, though, as using the center stand on the dolly is just easier. But it makes them practical for bikes w/o centerstands. They're usually $50-$100, depending on the capacity and who you buy them from.

I spent the money on my MT07. I found it much too loud, but after being installed and run it couldn't be returned, so... *shrugs* It stayed. I did like it's look, and thought it sounded pretty cool, but it basically forced me to ride super slow and quiet through the area around my neighborhood to not be a dick, etc, etc. Yeah, there's a *technical* performance gain, but in practice it's so trivial as to be undetectable. You notice the *change* in the powerband way more, of course, but actual performance gains are insignificant. Ultimately, it's a cosmetic upgrade. Now, to be sure, cosmetic upgrades are cool and all (mmmm farkles) but I tend to head into any exhaust discussion with that at the forefront: It's a cosmetic upgrade, and an extremely expensive one at that. There's a hell of a lot of better places to invest the ~$1000 an exhaust system costs. Hell, that was what I came to realize with my MT07 - I could have spent the extra $1000 when I bought the bike and got an MT09 instead, and rather than gaining ~2hp I'd have gained some 50hp.

At least you're not stuck with the grey and red and white 2019 GT I'd way rather have the blue and black (though I'd still paint/wrap the lower fairings, because like the white the silver is... Weird. The third color isn't a good design choice IMHO.

Oh, it has style'n vents too! What belly pan is that?! Edit: Also, running lights down the rad? Neat! There's a lot to unpack here; damn nice looking bike

Dat red doe. Mmm. Damn that's a nice looking bike. I never noticed the bellypan before; looks fantastic.

I've never heard of anyone having a catastrophic failure issue with the CP2 or CP3 in any bikes - FZ, FJ, or MT. The worst things I've seen tend to be user error. Most frequently, chain failure trashing the case (maintain your chain!) - there's several very graphic examples of that here.

$17.29. Shipping took 2 days. Ended up being pretty expensive all together, but I'm really happy with it.

6cm above the high point, and 2cm below the low. That's pretty impressive, and makes it more competitive vs. buying a huge barn-door windscreen. I imagine still pretty spendy though.

What's funny is I do have a pile of rags that I use - and even used during the installation once I was playing with the banjo bolt (dripping brake fluid is bad) and setting the bars down on the bike (scratches are bad) - but didn't think to put on when I was taking off the RAM mount. And yeah, my normal MO is a short test ride after work - but that was kind of the problem here, I cut short the work (and thus did a shitty job; all on me there) in my eagerness to get into that ride. It's a road I don't often get down as it's pretty far away, but really love riding, and it was a great group of people too.

Yeah, and one that was entirely due to my own idiocy. Not really my proudest moment.

Smaller tank, but much better gas mileage. You end up with a shorter range, but not much shorter. But, my question here - and clearly a feature I wasn't aware the FJR had - what is an electric screen?

I make a point of avoiding those boring highways. Turns out, you can get pretty much anywhere completely or at least nearly so avoiding such highways, and it makes trips *way* better. Just gotta spend a bit more time plotting out routes, and talking to people as you go to find the best roads.

Got mine installed yesterday, and a good ride in with them. They're expensive, but clearly a quality product and they work fantastically well. Very, very happy with them.

Got my Helibar risers yesterday, installed, and got out on a nice group ride through a twisty old 2-lane highway up to Canmore, AB and back - a perfect chance to test em out! To be honest, I didn't really expect to find them make a big difference, but wow, they're awesome. That 1-1/8th rise and 1-1/8th pullback are *significantly* more comfortable for me, while not feeling in the way in the slightest at crouch and lean. Really helps with the "roll forward" feeling of the seat for me, as I can sit a lot more upright. It's a pretty impressive product, too, for what amounts to a chunk of metal. Well machined, perfect fit, powdercoat isn't an exact match but is very close. Installation was a breeze. Well. Therein lay a problem. See, while installing the riser, I needed to take off two things attached to my handlebars - my heated gear temp controller and my RAM mount. But I dropped one of the RAM mount's nuts, which bounced (of course it did) through the tiny opening and directly into the frame of the bike. I could see it, but with like a 1/2" opening only accessible angled through the bars, it was *extremely* difficult to reach the nut. I got the notification for the upcoming group ride in one hour, but the meetup point was an hour away, so I slapped everything back together and took off. Riding out, mid corner at speed, I saw both rear handlebar clamp bolts, just bouncing in their sockets. I'd adjusted the bar position, snugged down the front two, then gotten distracted by fishing for the RAM mount nut until I got the notification. Never even tightened the back ones other than a few threads in by finger. Fortunately, I always carry a toolkit, so tightening them up was trivial, but... It's a little stressful to see that while right into a high speed corner.

Oh, man. Needed my toolkit last night! So, as per my (upcoming) post in the daily do thread, I got my Helibar riser yesterday, and was in the middle of installing it when I found out about a group ride happening out an old highway (1A) to Canmore. It's just a couple hours, but one of the few genuinely windy roads around here, and I'm not missing out on that opportunity to test the risers with both a decent length ride (for comfort) and twisties (for performance). Slapped things together quick, and headed out. Except... I'd been distracted by fishing out a nut from my old RAM mount that had fallen literally into the frame. I'd only snugged the front two handlebar clamp bolts, and not even that with the rear two, but forgot to finish that in my haste to meet up with the group. Crouched over, 120kph in a curve on the bumpy, windy mountain road, when I catch out of the corner of my eye both rearward handlebar clamp bolts literally bouncing, completely loose in their sockets. I'm amazed that the handlebars didn't just flop about like that, but I'll take it. Pull over, out comes the toolkit, bolts all get tightened up, and I'm back on my way. I'm damn glad I have that toolkit in there.

That's awesome, man! Fantastic pic, too, looks like that was a ton of fun.

Yeah, but my understanding from chatting with other oiler users is the (newer?) scottoilers have a direct "drips per minute" setting that accounts for viscosity and actually gets the actual number of drops per minute. Dunno if they're a constant volume, though, as I don't actually know how the mechanism works at all. They've also got the advantage of being able to be hidden, which is difficult with the Tutoro as it needs to be upright as it's gravity fed.

Not sold off shelves basically anywhere as far as I can tell, need to order them in. Anyone who sells offroad Anlas tires (Capra-X for example) can get them in, but they probably don't know it. Just need a parts guy who's willing to do a bit of investigation to get them.

This is something that matters a lot for me, as I live at a fairly high elevation and am up and down a lot. The Tutoro is vented and works at atmospheric pressure, so it's entirely unaffected by pressure. It IS affected by temperature, though - as it warmed up, I had to turn down the flow rate dial as (as you'd expect) the oil flow rate increased dramatically from -20C through +20C.

Absolutely, suspension > exhaust. Exhaust mods are fundamentally cosmetic. Look and sound. Sure, you can get a couple extra HP, but it's a trivial gain that's usually not even very usable in normal riding. This isn't a bad thing! We all spend lots on way stupider farkles! But it's cosmetic. Suspension looks cool but actively improves the handling of the bike. Function wins.

Has anyone used one of these adapters with a bluetooth ODB2 scanner such as a Scantool scanner, or even one of the little blue Aliexpress/Ebay jobs?

I'm interested in it, actually, if you're still interested in re-homing it - I'm using a bar mount right now that won't work with the Helibars I just ordered.

Coming back to post an update. Two months and 2500km in; lots of riding in snow, ice, salty slush, rain, dirt, and even, yes, a little sun. Multiple washes, without targeting the chain for cleaning or re-lubing it. Haven't touched the chain at all. It's still clean and well lubricated, and sits constantly at "the day after you clean it" state (wherein it's not spotless, but it's lubricated and has just a bit of grime on the outside links). I'm able to keep it fully clean and shiny by turning up the oil, but then I trade shinier links for oil thrown off and onto my left side hard case. Consumption is moderate - a bit more than I expected, but not prohibitively so. It uses roughly an ounce(that's a shot glass, right?) per 500kms - though much of that was done with the flow turned up higher to combat snow/water/salt. Pro's: It's simple, isolated, isn't tied into the bikes electrical or vacuum system, and is basically idiot proof. Pretty inexpensive as these things go, and very easy to install. It completely removes the need to clean and lube the chain. Cons: My chain guard is always really oily, and the rear rim ends up pretty mucky too. When flow is turned up (riding in unusually ooky circumstances), it can throw off a bunch of oil, and make a mess of the underside of the tail/licence plate/bags. It tends to drip a tiny bit at the end of a ride, a nickle to quarter sized drop, usually off the front sprocket. All in all, it's definitely going to extend chain life because your chain never gets to the point where you think, "Oh, hey, that looks dry - I should clean and lube it!" It's always clean and freshly lubed. Always. That said, chains last pretty damn long if you treat them well normally, so that's probably not a significant thing unless finances are REALLY tight. Should You Have One: Definitely worthwhile if you take long trips, ride in inclement weather frequently, or if you just ride a lot. If you're purely a summer rider, particularly if you're just a hobby rider (going on occassional trips, not riding regularly) then you're probably better off just cleaning and lubing the chain as normal. It's pretty easy to just clean and lube the chain before/after a trip, or every few weeks, if that's the frequency you need. Of course, if you're the sort to forget about your chain and NOT clean/lube it enough, then absolutely it's the thing for you

Yeah, I average around 42mpg (after hitting some online calculators anyways - 18kpl) with my stock gearing as well. I'm taking @betoney's route, though, I don't really expect the small gearing change to have an appreciable impact on fuel economy. I mean, it should in practice have the same impact as just riding roughly 8mph faster or slower.