draco_1967

At least wait until I post results before giving praise. There is now guarantee I won't break things 😆 Daz is the inspiration. I'm pretty good at following directions and not screwing up too badly most of the time. In all seriousness, I've done enough wiring and soldering that I feel comfortable with attempting this, but I am far from expert. I think the worst part for me will be cutting the MCCruise controller harness to splice the DIY parts in.

I just bought a used Super Tenere left-hand switch pod and all the resistors/LED parts I'll need to copy Daz's amazing mod. Hopefully I don't let out the magic smoke 😄

They are mountain on the factory plastic handguards. Are the SW guards aluminum? If so, they should drill fairly easily. I have seen the Rottweiler mount attached to Cycra handguards, which are aluminum.

The adjustability of the CRG mirror is great. They are easily shifted in for lane filtering or parking situations. They are smaller, but the lens is convex, so I can see more than what the stock mirrors showed. I did have to get used to the whole "objects are closer than they appear" thing with the convex lens. I have the mirrors adjusted so I can just see my elbows, but I can see behind, plus all they way up to my blind spot (where I need to turn my head for lane changes).

Have you considered something like the Rottweiler mounts/CRG mirrors? I really like them on my Tracer. They also reduce air turbulence that the stock mirrors cause on the Tracer. The Rottweiler mount can be attached to the SW handguard spine. Rottweiler Performance Quick Flip Mirror Mounts (Arrow Kit) The best Adventure bike mirrors!

I did ride it! I had a drive-by activity for work, so I decorated the bike for it. The leadership wanted to hand out gifts and we were supposed to dress festively, but I dressed up the bike instead of me. I did have a santa hat stuck on my helmet too. I need to take a night-time ride to show off the lights. It is a strand of the C9-style LED lights, and I have it hooked up to a little inverter in the tank bag.

Decorated for Christmas!

It will last a little while, but it will keep coming back. It happens when chain links have lost the grease on the rollers inside the o-rings/x-rings. They will become stiff, and not flex like they should when they go around the front sprocket. Change them as soon as you can. Chain failures can cause serious damage (to bike and rider).

Check your chain for kinked links. If it's the factory chain, it is probably worn out. My 2019 has a little over 14k miles, and makes the same noise (based on your description).

I figure this is as good a place as any to add. I just got an email from Madstad that they are having a 20% off Black Friday sale. SUBBF20 is the code. (No affiliation, just wishing I had this coupon when I bought mine 😆)

I mounted them inside, but I used a little block of HDPE to fill in the gap on the inside of the handguards. I needed some longer bolts as well, but I had some in my stash that worked perfectly. I'll try to get a better picture of the spacer.

My 2019 Tracer is definitely not limited to 114mph. Tested on a closed course, of course ... 😇 I hope that the spy shots are of a (very) rough draft. It looks unfinished to me. I would also be very surprised if they created all new saddlebags for it. Although with the last "special edition" FJR, it seemed like they were killing it off, so maybe they did come up with new luggage for the Tracer.

Yeah, the fit is a little different on the 2019+. I had to open up the bend angle of the bracket for it to even clear the bottom of the plastics.

I bought one, and it fit with a little work. I ended up selling it to another member here. The lights I have are a little heavier than what the light bar was designed for, so they bounced a lot. I was concerned about that movement breaking the fairing stay. I went with the Givi aux light mounts, and am happy with it. It doesn't bounce, and it adds some rigidity to the fairing stay.

I love my Perfect Squeeze. Well, I have the Big Squeeze for a 7" tablet, but it works with my phone also. It's a high-quality holder, and it has been on 3 different bikes over ~45k miles. I will probably pick up the wireless charging version for Christmas.

Yes, ride UT12. If you continue on 12 to Torrey and turn East on UT24, the scenery turns otherworldly. It's like riding on the moon between Fruita and Hanksville. 143 through Brian Head and Panguitch Lake is also nice, and Cedar Breaks is right there too. It's like a mini Bryce Canyon. If you like good food, the Thunderbird Cafe in Mount Carmel Junction is good (the "ho-made" pies are awesome). Off of UT12 in Boulder is the Burr Trail Grill (also has great pie).

I got so tired of my mirrors coming out of adjustment on the highway. I switched to some bar-end mirrors by CRG with a Rottweiler mount. I found a set used for a good price (about half of what they are new). There is a knock-off version on fleabay that does not have the quick rotate mechanism, but the price is right ($20-40). They easily fold out of the way when parking/filtering, they hold their position, and they let me see a lot more than just my arms/shoulders. As an added bonus, I get much cleaner air around the windscreen. The stock mirrors created a lot of turbulence.

I got so tired of my mirrors coming out of adjustment on the highway. I switched to some bar-end mirrors by CRG with a Rottweiler mount. I found a set used for a good price (about half of what they are new). There is a knock-off version on fleabay that does not have the quick rotate mechanism, but the price is right ($20-40). They easily fold out of the way when parking/filtering, they hold their position, and they let me see a lot more than just my arms/shoulders. As an added bonus, I get much cleaner air around the windscreen. The stock mirrors created a lot of turbulence.

Looks like tourandride.com has some Givi stuff for the Niken. Motostorm.it has a bit more. I have used Webike, and they are good.

Yes, pretty much. The white is connected through the relay to the HB.

I have a Skene wired up to mine as well through a relay wired for negative switching. You can adjust the brightness, but you can't use the high beam switch. You need a + signal to get the Skene dimming adjustment function to work. I just jumpered it to the + on the battery to set the brightness level, then reconnected it to the relay. Here is a diagram of how to wire the relay to switch with a negative input:

I am using the Harbor Freight changer with Mojo blocks and lever (link). I also have a couple of Motion Pro tire irons to help with stubborn tires. It's bolted to the floor in the garage with 4 drop-in anchors. I can remove the stand and only leave the 4 holes behind. The stand lives in the corner of the garage when not in use. Here is a picture: Yep, I did the front in the early afternoon, The rear sat out in the sun until the evening when I could finish. It was still rather warm, but I could have used the heat gun. My buddies all ride VTX1800s, and run Michelin Commanders, and those are some stiff tires! I told them that I would not mount tires for them until they buy me a pneumatic tire machine 😄

I just mounted a set of RS2s last night the front was fine, but the rear was quite stiff. Even with the bead in the drop center, and lots of lube, it took a lot more effort than I remember the RS3 I installed on my FJR (same size as the Tracer).

It's almost always a technique issue. The important factors are: The bead opposite where you are working needs to be in the "drop center" of the rim. LUBE! Don't use windex or dish soap. Get some real tire lube. If you are using tire irons, take small chunks. Don't try to pull too much of the bead over the rim at once. You can also try the zip tie method, which works really well. Study up on some tire mounting videos on YouTube. If you are working too hard, your technique is off. Having said that, there are some tires that are harder to mount than others. I had a hard time with a 19" 50/50 tire on my other ride. Even with a tire changer, I had to use all 3 of my tire irons to help get the last bit of tire bead over the rim. I never had issues with the Dunlop RS3 though.

I have an SCR 950 wheel in my garage. I used it to convert a Ninja 650R into an ADV bike. I can take some measurements this week, in case anyone is curious. The Axle diameter is the same, but I am sure wheel spacers will be needed, along with some type of offset bracket for the brake. Having a single disk would reduce braking power significantly, which would suck on a bike like the Tracer. You can use a larger FJR1300 disk on the SCR wheel to get better braking force. Personally, I think the Tracer engine would not be very fun in the dirt (outside of smooth gravel roads). The engine is way to high-strung, unlike a p-twin, it won't have the torque down low needed to crawl over the rough stuff. That custom ADV Tracer looks pretty awesome though!