Skidood

Strain gauge (aka pressure sensor) would be overkill, a switch is really all that's needed, and the symbol for the switch that is shown on the electrical schematic in the other QS thread is the symbol for a switch. A pressure sensor or strain gauge is a different symbol.

Yes.... on a normally closed switch, holding the shifter up will open the switch contacts...and with an open circuit on powerup, the ECU will deem this a fault and disable the QS, or assume no QS is installed.

I do think it works the way tedski said...input shaft wont turn due to pressure on the gears, the switch changes state, power cut, input shaft rotates.

Tedski, that's what my intent was, and always is. Unfortunately the test was somewhat inconclusive. I couldn't access the connector, didn't want to start taking the bike apart to look for it, so I tried the procedure where you disable the QS by holding the switch in and turning the power on ...wedged a block of wood under the shift lever just enough to push the switch rod inwards about 1 or 2 mm. Takes a large amount of force to do this....Switch did not appear to have changed state (QS light stayed on)...then adjusted the block of wood to apply plenty of pressure to keep the switch rod fully depressed hard into the switch housing...QS light stayed on indicating switch still didn't change state..so until I can access the wiring from the switch and get my meter on them, no answers. From an engineering point of view which includes fault detection, (bad contacts or cut wire) I bet this switch is normally closed and the contacts open as soon as the rod has moved just a wee bit inwards.

Wait...first you say its a guess on your part and then you say I'm just wrong? Got anything to back up your statement? Did I say you were wrong?? I could tell you what I just discovered when I went to check it out in my garage just now but won't bother now. Nicely done.

That's not outside the realm of possibilities...but I have worked with hundreds of different kinds of limit switches and pressure switches in my work, and do have to say I kind of doubt it works as you say ....the switch input rod moves inwards into the switch about 1/4" (and at that point is where I assume the contacts close) but the rod doesn't physically move inwards until after sufficient pressure has been applied to rotate the input shaft. (just a static test in my garage, engine not running). The only way to know for sure is use a meter on the switch terminals while moving the shift lever. I may go out and do this tonight

Yes it did, thanks.

On my 2019, I noticed that the switch is actually part of the linkage rod that transmits the shift lever movement to the input shaft. And when shifting up slowly, the rod will move up and rotate the input shaft BEFORE the switch actuates. You have to pull up a bit harder on the lever after the input shaft rotates in order to actuate the switch. So, on a shift up, this means that the switch does not send the signal to the ECU until AFTER the input shaft has rotated. Bizarre! How can it properly cut power for the shift if the input shaft has already rotated by the time the switch actuates??

On my 2019 I notice the inside of my left ankle gets warm.... to the point where a couple times I have moved my foot out further to the edge of the peg.

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I checked things out, according to the service manual, my bike requires the Yamaha diagnostic tool to get the readings. Otherwise the procedure itself appears to be the same. Would be nice if I could use my OBDII reader.

Being of an electronics background, I can say the following: I believe that when you turn the bike on, the system will check the status of the switch. (ie whether the contacts are open or closed) If the check passes, the QS indicator stays ON. If the system detects the switch contacts are stuck closed, or open when they're supposed to be closed, it should provide a fault indication (which I guess on these bikes takes the form of the QS light turning off) Now, once you are riding, if you shift, and the switch does not work, the ECU won't know you are trying to shift, and may result in the symptoms you are seing. Its possible that the switch is becoming intermittent (works only some of the time). This is often the failure mode of a limit switch or microswitch or magnetic reed switch. You can test the switch repeatedly by using an ohmmeter or multimeter across the switch. Check for zero ohms (dead short) when its supposed to be closed. Maybe you can locate that connector shown in the above graphic. If you can, unplug it and measure on the half that is (of course) wired to the switch. It doesn't matter if you know ahead of time whether its a normally open or normally closed switch, you just need to see it changing state from one to the other when operating the shift lever.) Anyway, to test it, you pretty much need to access the connector shown and use a meter. Keep us posted on this, I also worry about my QS, I swear to God most of the time it just jams the gears together producing a nasty shock to the drivetrain that feels like you just got bumped from behind by another vehicle..

Really?? What am I doing wrong then, smartass?

OK gotcha, thank you.

I did actually get my ECU flashed, I still don't use A. You hit a good bump, throttle gets accidentally bumped a smidge because, well, you're hanging onto the grip.. bike briefly leaps forward unexpectedly. Not for me, and I'm an aggressive rider. To each his own, right?

Not to be a whiner, but I'm curious as to if there is a particular reason why this forum does not have a classifieds section?

I personally disagree, I find A mode way too touchy, I'd rather not be constantly hyper-focussed on my wrist movement. Makes for a better ride where you can focus on what you''re supposed to be focussing on. I bet a lot of people (unlike me) aren't publicly willing to admit they dont like A mode.

Their website shows that they have a cover for the Tracer but they don't mention the GT....and the seats appear different. Otherwise I'd give one a try.

I like the idea of this poll but I suspect the numbers are skewed a bit towards to the older crowd since the 45 and up crowd are more likely to be members of an internet forum like this, where we can vote in said poll. The younger crowd are more likely to be on Reddit or Discord and the like...

The other day using QS, a few times I found the 1-2 and the 2-3 shift was so beautiful I wanted to cry. This was under mild acceleration and RPM around 3-4K. Otherwise 95% of the time, the QS produces a somewhat annoying shock to the drivetrain regardless of RPM or throttle position. It just seems very inconsistent.

Sorry all, I didn't realize this was talked about so much in the past. My 6th gear whine almost has a ringing quality to it, like you hear on a jet engine sometimes. Anyway, as you were....

Chances of that happening are nil and I hope they stay that way.

Hmm...bike has 1200 km on it...hope it settles down...wonder if using a full synthetic oil would help. Also, chain slack was zero when I brought it home from the dealer. Unfortunately I rode it like that for about 100 km before realizing it didn't match what is stated in the manual.

I am not one to post simply to complain about stuff but.....does anyone else find the 6th gear whine to be a rather unpleasant sound? I don't mind a nice whine but THIS whine is just pretty gnarly/nasty sounding. No?

Reviving this thread simply to ask, is it OK (with the sidestand down) to put all my weight on the inboard peg and mount the bike? When just standing beside the bike I find it very difficult to swing my right leg over the back when getting on as I have a top case on the passenger seat and I am not a very flexible dude.. I worry about overstressing the stand. I weight 205 lbs with gear..