petshark

Things are moving fast all of a sudden. First I found myself about to order a Tracer 9 GT but after a second test ride I was surprised that it wasn't as exciting as I remembered. I decided to keep the 900 GT after all.

But that itch didn't go away. One thing led to another and before I knew it I was looking at XR's. Way too expensive for me but I'll make it work somehow...

I think. 

I'm looking at a grey 2021 with 3800 km, in showroom state. Full option minus M forged wheels, centre-stand and panniers. The previous owner didn't care for them I guess.. Not a dealbreaker for me. Keyless, large TFT, all the rider aids, connected, integrated GPS, crash bars, nice screen, etc. 

Before I take the plunge, is there anything I should know?

I'm especially looking at @Warchild and @fjray who I believe are also XR riders on the forum.

20 hours ago, betoney said:

My VFR also has a bizarre fuel gauge reading.  It has 5 bars which drop at a fairly even rate dependent on mpg, (45miles, 90 miles, 135 miles, 180 miles etc.)  However when it drops from two bars to 1 bar, the bars immediately disappear and the DTE countdown starts, so even though it shows 5 bars, the 5th is actually when reserve starts. 

Is the reserve also 45 miles? I get that you expect reserve to be separate from the five bars but if you have a complete linear overview of your available fuel that is actually more logical to me than having an invisible reserve that magically kicks in when the bars are all gone. They could have chosen to leave the final bar visible while the countdown runs but they probably chose to do it this way to give the rider a sense of urgency.

It sounds like Honda perfection to me. Maybe I should get a VFR. 

I did run the engine dry once not long after I bought it. I immediately hit the kill switch when it started sputtering. Luckily I was only 100 meters from a gas station. I pushed it there, filled it up and it started with no problem.

The display showed 45 km on reserve. I haven't gone further than 35 km on reserve since.

FWIW I wouldn't mind an accurate fuel gauge but I have no problem with the design as it is. It's weird but rationally there is no reason for me to wonder if I am above or below 3/4 of the tank. One less stat to fret about is fine by me. With a glass-half-full mindset I even find it pleasant to have a nice full tank up until it's half and it's time to start keeping an eye on it. I'm weird like that sometimes. 

Same story here. I spoke to 2 dealers and they both were sent three Tracer 9 GT's. One is a demo and two are sold. They don't expect any new delivery until the end of the year. The Tenere is easier to order. They had three rally versions sitting on the floor.

+1 
good quality DID chain was adjusted twice after install and it hasn't stretched since (about 10000 km). The downside of this is that I don't check it anymore. It's been a few months now so thanks for the reminder.

I have the YA535 and there is a very light click for every rotation of the knob but it's very subtle, you need the touch of a safe-cracker to feel it. I have this shock for almost a year now and could have sworn that it clicked much more obviously when I just got it.

I have this one. It’s a rebranded SW motech and I’d bet that any (rebranded) tank bags from this brand will fit. Probably not compatible with other brands unless there is some kind of forced patent. (If that is even a thing)

Just back from 4 days of twisty road riding and still perfectly happy with the Yamaha Comfort seat. I have many chronic pain zones in my neck and back so I do suffer but I never get the feeling that I am sliding towards the tank.

It sounds like a loose ground indeed. I think I read about a case like this where it was the key not making proper contact. You could try moving it a little to see if you can trigger the behaviour or remedy it when it's happening. 

i was a standard mode rider until I had the ECU flashed. The only problem of A mode is the abrupt on/off throttle response because of the fuel cut. Once that is solved (by the flash) I find it very reasonable and pleasant to operate, just what I expect from a performance machine. The other modes feel really weird now, delayed, restricted, great for when you're not used to 115 hp (I know I wasn't) but other than that I recommend getting to know A mode, preferably after a flash, and enjoy this engine for what it is.  

For me the bike no longer has modes. That is to say it never goes out of A mode, it's what my wrist is calibrated to and I no longer think modes are a useful thing for me.

1 hour ago, Infinity99 said:

UPDATE! I called the tuner today, and they have found my ecu. They didn't immediately get back to me as they were sorting out what exactly happened. It was sent to another customer by human error. Thank goodness. The other customer has an 2019 MT-09 and the ecu (mine in their bike) is throwing codes because it's looking for a quick shifter, heated grips, and cruise control. All of which are not present.

We are in the process of working out the correction.

So good to hear that!

4 hours ago, Infinity99 said:

Well, I received the ecu back on May 9th and I've been racking by hamster ever since to figure out why no power to the heated grips, and then the discovery of no cruise control. It won't even turn on. I understand that like every other motorcycle shop, they are busy as it's the beginning of the season.

I'm starting to get frustrated as time goes on. I just want my ecu back as quickly as possible. Took 3 weeks to get back here after it was received....

I hate to be negative here but the best case scenario is probably that he swapped it by accident with another customer's MT09. Seeing that this is all done by mail the other client may refuse to send it back as his/her bike is probably fine with your ECU. Ugh, what a mess. 

Another worse scenario is that they broke yours by accident and sourced a secondhand one that is not right for your bike. That could be an explanation for the radio silence. 

I would firmly but politely demand immediate return of your ECU or a new one with the right part number.

4 hours ago, Infinity99 said:

As well, i found that cruise control does not function.

So I'm pretty sure why this is happening. I tore the bike apart last night and checked the ecu part #.

BS2-8591A-10 is what I have.

This ecu is for an MT-09, not a Tracer 900GT. Part # for a Tracer ecu is:

B1J-8591A-00 

I assume this would cause these issues, but correct me if I'm mistaken. Seems like my ecu got switched in the mix? Emailed the tuner to inquire.

Good find! That makes a lot of sense. I hope that it's an honest mistake and that the tuner has a valid reason for not answering your emails.  Even if he returns your ECU asap he owes you for all the time you spent on this IMO.

10 hours ago, keithu said:

Yes, the V4S is fantastic. But for the price it better be! And we'll see if it's anywhere near as reliable as the Yamaha through 46k miles. So far, so good at 3k miles.

And are the Ducatisti on the forums as nice as us? 

Sorry to hear about the rotors but happy to hear that they did not succeed.

This is so weird. Normally you'd think they'd load it in a van and take their time to remove the locks. Was he going to walk away with it without brakes?

Cutting through the rotors can only be done with an angle grinder, right? To make so much noise and go to all that trouble and then fail... What (an) idiot(s)!

Same here. About 7% high in km/h

On 5/4/2022 at 7:09 AM, How2 said:

hello

 

 That would be great if you have an old bearing in hand for a photo.

Thanks

 

WW

 

 

 

My apologies for taking so long! It completely slipped my mind.

Impulse-buy:

I paid 65 euro and the seller was just behind the corner. New it's around 150-200 euro. I'll call it a no-no-mar because it will mar without some alterations.

-I'll have to get proper rim protectors or try some kind of rubber tubing around the 3 "rim-grabbers".
-I'll put a rubber tile from the garden in the middle to protect the rotors
-I need to source a smaller diameter centre pipe as this one is +20mm

The good thing is that I can also use it for my car.

Olmax owners: 

you also had to buy this extra 15 or 17 mm rod?

http://olmaxmotors.pl/index.php/angebote/zubehoer-accessories

4 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I don't use c-clamps to break the bead, I use them to hold the bead together and in the drop channel.  The bead breaker on the Olmax works just fine.  

There's lots of tools to do this, and I've seen pictures of people using wine corks and all sorts of things.  I just find c-clamps to be super easy.  Those trigger bar clamps are probably even better (rubber/plastic jaws are less likely to mark anything).

he biggest struggle for me before using them was when I'd get most of the tire over the rim, I'd REALLY struggle with the last part.  People would say things like "use lots of lube" and "take small bites" but neither where relevant.  The solution was getting BOTH beads into the drop channel.  I was just using my knees to push the bead on the side I was working on down into it, but the other side would work against me.  

 

Also, when putting tires on, c-clamps can work like Bead Buddies and what have you, preventing the bead from popping back out as you work your way around.  Generally not an issue with the Olmax but definitely one of you're just doing it on the ground.

Ah, I misunderstood then. Thanks for the explanation.

I did my first tire change last summer and bought 4 irons and a big bucket of tire lube. I cut out pieces of washing liquid bottles to protect the rim and it all worked out but it's not a job I look forward to doing again this way. 

So I am just keeping my ears open to see what is out there. I don't' want to spend a lot of money but these tire changers seem like good investments and I love the small footprint. 

I am wondering if these will do car tires as well? Probably not.

On 11/5/2021 at 4:39 AM, Wintersdark said:

Sadly, "technique" is easy to type, but tough to learn.  Particularly when you're at risk of destroying brand new tires.  Ask me how I know

Now I've got two bikes, each that need at least two changes per year (winter/summer tires), I couldn't justify paying someone else to change mine anymore.  It's quite a bit more expensive here, with $50 per loose tire being an absolute floor, then adding some $20 of "shop supplies", taxes and such... $120 per bike, twice a year, is $480 of tire changing per year - again, as a minimum, assuming I'm only mounting new tires and get a full season out of each set.  

I was strongly considering a No-Mar changer, but I was looking at $800-$900cad shipped, which was pretty prohibitively expensive. 

So I grabbed a tire changer from http://olmaxmotors.pl

It was $400 Canadian, shipped.  Half the price, and quite a competent little machine.  I'm definitely happy.

In action: 

 

In this video the olmax features a bead breaker but recently you mentioned using C-clamps for that job. Is the Olmax bead breaker no good?

On 11/6/2021 at 12:10 AM, piotrek said:

Good call. Very similar to the unit I picked up last winter from Max2h. Fantastic device, and very compact. I anchor mine to the garage floor for the job, and have also rigged up a hitch mount option. My kit came with a 20mm shaft, and I then had to purchase a smaller diameter shaft for the front... but I am all setup now. Sounds like you will get all kinds of use out of this new toy.

EVOX in action starting at 0:35

 

I was in the market to buy something to make breaking the bead easier but now I'm considering your solution. It's currently €196.00 instead of €245.00 * (20% off). Don't know if it was already hit with inflation.. May I ask what the price was in 2020?

Just wondering about the small diameter adapter for the front wheel. Did you get the 15mm? With the step cone?

https://max2h.com/en/axle-adapter-15mm-for-tire-changer-evox?c=778

12 hours ago, Paddy01 said:

I can ride with visor open but clearly it increases blast on the face. I never, ever ride without earplugs. I’ve been riding for over 40 years and damaged my hearing through riding without them until it was too late (who knew in the 70s and 80s?). I now wear hearing aids (not while on the bike). I’m not deaf, just a bit deficient in the upper range. So maybe my judgment of noise is different from yours. Anyway, I digress. 

I'm sorry for your hearing loss, I've been suffering tinnitus from just before I started riding so I'm with you on the plugs.

But on my previous bike, a 2019 Kawasaki Versys 650, I had a Vstream screen combined with an MRA Xcreen spoiler and I really did not need them. The only noise was the engine, absolutely no wind. As you can see it was much more upright so it really kept my helmet out of the air stream. But I cringe when I look at it now. It just destroys the look of the bike IMO.

The Puig Touring with the same MRA Xcreen on the Tracer is almost as good but it's not quite so perfect.

I'm still unsure what the difference would be for me between the MRA Vario and Touring (with or without spoiler). If there is no turbulence that means that the air is either below or above the helmet. If the wind still hits you in the face that means it's below and seeing how the MRA is so much more aerodynamic than the Puig or Vstream I would be very surprised if it is even possible for a tall rider to direct the air above the helmet.

So that leaves me wondering if the spoiler does anything in this scenario as I already get clean air without it. That air is noisy  so maybe there is a difference there. It could be that I hear some turbulence (that I don't feel) on the torso and that this is eliminated with the spoiler.

1 hour ago, Paddy01 said:

I get clean air with zero buffeting. Apart from the screen all else is standard. I’m 6ft. I hope this helps. 

Do you mean that the airflow goes over your helmet so you can ride with the visor open and without earplugs? If that is the case I would think about replacing my MRA without spoiler to the one with because I'm the same height as you.

I also get clean air without the spoiler but it's a compromise where my torso is protected by the screen but my helmet is sitting in the wind just like on a naked bike.

I hope you had a nice trip in Wales! I might go there soon, maybe Scotland first.

2 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Those look interesting! I've just been using C clamps personally, they're cheap and readily available anywhere tools are sold, and they work spectacularly.   But those would be a fair bit more portable and light I think, vs. the big 8" clamp I use for the rear tires. 

For my first tire change last summer I built a contraption in my workshop that involves an iron bar and weight from a bench press and a wooden anchor screwed onto the wall. It worked but I am on the lookout for a better solution for breaking the bead next time.

Interesting that large C clamps work spectaculary! I bought these Irwin clamps just recently: 

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0001IW4TG/ref=pe_27091401_487027711_TE_SCE_dp_1

But 135 Kg of pressure is probably not enough? Don't want to break my new clamps. 

Otherwise I might buy some regular steel ones. Or that tool that @draco_1967posted if anyone can vouch for it.