petshark

Thank you for sharing, What a story! I can totally imagine. I hope there is little or no damage to your Tenere and you got the gasoline off the bike and your clothes.

And I am going to start paying attention when getting gas. The latches are still there at most stations in Belgium and I often use them. No more after hearing this. 

Done! I fixed some other stuff at the same time and sourced some used parts to compensate and I'm really happy with the results. Hopefully the imperfect handlebars won't bug me or I may have to replace those as well. Or do the trick with the long pipe first to try and bend it back.. it's just a little off.

My apologies for resurrecting this thread. I'm the OP and I have a direct question relating to this.To spare you from (re)reading the entire thread let me summarize it:

I stripped the threads on the studs and nuts when I tried to torque it to the specified tension in the manual. The torque wrench was of good quality and calibrated. I used epoxy to glue the most stripped stud back in and bought two new nuts from yamaha and tightened everything to a lower torque value.

While dealing with some damage from a drop I also sourced a used sprocket carrier that has done 15,000 km. (9320 miles). The studs and bolts are in good condition and I am preparing to install it.

But...

In this thread there was a lot of discussion whether the manual specs are ok or exaggerated and both camps had very good points. There seem to be many reports of people stripping the threads so I'm worried that it will happen again.

There was the interesting opinion that this torque spec means that you need to replace the nuts each time as you can only do this one. Another opinion was to replace the studs instead.

I had used WD40 so the studs were still slippery and may have caused me to over-torque and damage them. I will clean the thread with a wire brush and make sure that they are not slippery and maybe that will make all the difference.

But I'm again faced with the choice:

-buy new nuts and/or studs even though they look good to reuse?
-torque to manual spec or lower?

I'm not sure what I want to hear but just thought I'd throw it in the group once more because I'm really undecided.

I expect the parts to arrive in the next few hours. Can't wait to restore her to her former glory. If the delivery isn't cancelled last minute that is.

1 hour ago, peteinpa said:

I've thought about getting one, NO MORE!

jeez, this sucks!  How high are they when you roll the bike on?

I estimate about 13 cm or 5 inches.. Don't let this deter you, it's a great investment and I'm still happy I've got it. Some reminder signs like @2and3cylinders suggests will really help. And thanks to @roy826 for letting us know to only go in a straight line up the ramp.

I did read the complete manual of the lift and I wished they had included this practical advise "Make sure you side stand is up!" instead of all the useless legal jargo there and on the stickers.

2 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

If you store it under your car, I presume you cover it with a waterproof cover that vents out the sides after treating it with a corrosion inhibitor?

Another good tip! I will spray is with ACF-50 and try to find some kind of cover. Or just leave the car out until it's dry.

1 hour ago, JonnyB said:

Thanks for posting this, Petshark. I have been thinking about a bike lift for a while, and any tips, advice and warnings are much appreciated.  It probably didn't seem like it at the time but in retrospect I think you were lucky to have fairly minimal damage. Having put a dent in the fuel tank of my 3 month-old ZZR1100 when a skinny bit of softwood fell over in my garage I know how much these garage incidents can cost. Also, of course the main thing is that you didn't get hurt (physically if not mentally!!) Again, thanks for posting. 

Oooof, that ZZR1100. That must have hurt a lot more. I do count myself lucky for sure. I couldn't believe that there is no damage to the panels or tank. The screen and handlebar kept most of the rest of the bike from hitting the ground. I did hurt my toe but don't know how. Maybe I tried to follow the bike as it went over and hit it against the ramp. But it's not broken or anything so again quite lucky.

About these block off plates:
The ECU tuner asked if I wanted to keep the AIS or not. I chose to have it disabled in the Woolich software and that should keep the valve closed (according to him).

He also said that the AIS is the reason for pops and bangs when closing the throttle and that some people like to keep it because of that. I have to admit that I do like them and don't get them anymore.

Are you guys with ECU flashes installing the plates only for ease of access or is there another reason to do this? You know how it is. All the cool kids have block off plates and I don't. 🤣

7 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Been there, done that! Also twice just years apart.

And both times were years after having my Handy Lift, which I bought new in 95.

https://www.handyindustries.com/standard-1200

Back then it cost $650 with ramp, wheel vise, dolly and shipping.  Best money I ever spent on my shop, along with the heat and AC.

To preclude another mishap, I prominently posted in 2 locations adjacent the path to the lift as well as on the ramp itself warning - reminder signs that say SIDE STAND UP!!!

I also attached to the ramp a vertical tab that is angled, tall and wide enough to catch and knock back and up the side stand if it's down before it has a chance to flip over a bike.

I also place a vinyl pad under the side stand foot, and 3/8" plywood board under center stand feet.

Pros often reinforce the table top with steel or aluminum plate.

Be sure to occasionally shoot a bit of pneumatic tool oil into the air line to lube the up/down valve and ram piston seals, and grease the scissor pivot bearings, elliptical arch bearings and other pivot points.

Some good tips here, thanks! I've seen you state that the lift was "the best money spent" a few times and that was part of the decision to go for it.

This is mine. https://www.matthys.net/en/motorcycle-lift-width-55-cm-1225396

I dropped it. TWICE

tales of woe here

I love working on the bike but lower back pain is killing me so after a lot of thought I finally bought myself a nice motorcycle lift table.

I finished installing it and found that it fits just under my SUV in my small garage. There's just room for the car and nothing else except a few very narrow things against the walls.

Why am I telling you this you might wonder...

I finished installing the lift and couldn't wait to get the bike up there. First time that I had to push it up on a small ramp so I made sure that I had a good grip, one hand on the handlebars and one the passenger rail, got a little speed and.. down it crashed to the right side!! I couldn't believe it. I just stared incomprehensibly at my previously immaculate bike that I had been enjoying for 15 months. Then I realized that I would not be able to pick it up. The wheels were still raised on the platform and the top of the bike was against the wall of the garage.

Called my girl in a panic and we got it up again. The mirror had broken off but that seemed to be the worst of it at first glance. What came next will horrify you. I must have been in shock because even though I had no idea how this could have happened I immediately tried again WITH THE SAME RESULT! This time the footrest broke. The Chinese FJR one. It just broke in half.

That's when I realized that it was the side-stand that was causing this. I always leave it down when rolling the bike around in the shed next to the garage or even take it out of the shed. A habit that I created to be safer at a time where I was afraid to lose control over the bike while walking around with it. Now that habit bit me... hard.

When the front wheel reaches the platform after the ramp, it makes the side-stand hit the ramp just before the knee and pushes it violently to the right. This combined with the handlebars being higher and the momentum makes it impossible to keep it upright. This is probably all very obvious to most of you but I had not thought of it. I thought that I had just lost my balance somehow. I can tell you one thing; I will never forget to raise that side-stand again.

The front end hit some wood that was stacked there so the entire nose of the bike was askew. The dash, the lights, everything that is attached to that frame. The MRA touring screen was also bent but I quickly regained it's original form. I was able to force the nose back to the proper position by hand. I reinstalled the OEM footrests. The front wheel pointed heavily to the side with the handlebars straight so I loosened the pinch bolt, axle and lower triple tree clamps and pushed down on the handlebars until I got it all aligned again.

Then I did a long ride to unwind and the bike seems ok. The handlebar is a little bent upwards (10 mm) on the right, the hand protector is scratched and broken, the mirror itself is ok but the bracket it is attached to is broken in half. The lambda sonde cable is damaged but ... that wasn't connected anyway after the ECU flash so no worries there.

There's some paint from the ramp on the exhaust but that's it I think! Maybe I'll find some other damage after a deep wash but I count myself lucky. I ordered the parts and it's just 100 euros. (I didn't get new handlebars)

No pictures, I was too shocked and wanted the bike up asap. What a mistake to make!

6 hours ago, kilo3 said:

Starting to enjoy a dedicated gps, not happy with the anti glare protector on it however, seems poor compared to whatever I found for my dash.

 

wow, that thing is huge! Is is a dedicated motorcycle gps from Garmin? 

Love the heavy duty bicycle bell btw. Must be pretty loud to be useful above the engine noise.

14 minutes ago, Cogswell said:

That will work just fine. Prep your surfaces properly to ensure good ashesion.

Great! Ordered.

Thank you! I've found this nearby for a good price. It's red which should be easier to spot and remove and it shouldn't show on the outside of the cap. Or would you advise to find black or clear sealant?

https://www.k2-global.com/en/products/k2-red-silicone-350c-85-g

Quote

High quality silicone. Perfectly adapts to the sealed surfaces. High temperature resistant up to 350°C. Meets the requirements of car manufacturers (O.E.M. - Original Equipment Manufacturer).

Replaces traditional gaskets: cork, paper, felt, asbestos and rubber. Thanks to the SENSOR SAFE formula, it is safe for lambda sensors used in modern cars with electronic fuel injection.

Resistant to oils, greases, coolants etc. It can be used for all car models and makes, among others for sealing: valve covers, thermostat gaskets, oil pans, camshaft covers, water pumps, rear axle covers and many other elements where tightness and high temperature resistance are required.

I have these frame sliders from Top Block (France). 

I am very happy with them but have lost 3 of the 4 plastic caps on the bolts. I've received some new ones free of charge but they will probably fall out again if I don't secure them somehow.

Any expert tips on how to glue these? I want them to stay put until I remove them (to check that the bolts are still tight). I'd prefer it if there is no or easy to remove residue.

I've considered blue thread-lock but I don't think that plays nice with plastic parts and it's probably too strong. I has to be something that does not really bond with the plastic.

This is really great info! Thank you so much for taking the time.

11 hours ago, angrygirafe said:

How long did you have it for?
 

They’re niche machines for sure. I’ve put almost 8k miles on my 2018 S commuting over the last year, and while it’s fun to ride, commuting is ALL it can do. I keep looking at that SR/S and the SR/F, but $20k is a lot of money for a commuter. 
 

Surprised your seat was hard; mine is way better than my FJ-09 was.

The test ride was just 45 minutes.

I do have a comfort seat on the Tracer and never experienced the stock seat so I can't really compare the two.

This is an interesting take. When you say that commuting is all it can do, are you talking about range only or also that you don't enjoy it as much as, say a Tracer? There.'s no substitute for a year of testing but it stands to reason that using a bike for commuting only can maybe create the negative association that that is all it's good for. 

I also think that anyone (with an open mind at least) will really enjoy a first ride on an electric but that doesn't mean it actually is as much fun in the long run. I dread paying so much for a bike to find that out in the end so if you care to elaborate, I'd be really interested. Especially coming from a FJ owner this information is gold.

As I had expected I really enjoyed this ride. As before I'll quickly write down my impressions, as much for my own benefit as for anyone who is interested.

Pro: 

• Seems well built. Things like the kickstand and mirrors feel very robust compared to the Tracer.
• You can hear so much better what is going on around you.
• Wind protection is good for me. Clean air on the helmet. Wind screen is not adjustable AFAIK. 
• Torque and HP are really great but not as much of a huge difference to my Tracer as I had expected. I have 120 HP at the wheel  after the ECU flash and the Zero had 110 so that's no surprise. But yanking open the throttle on the highway to overtake is a thing of beauty.
• Extra weight is really low and you don't feel it at all. 
• Excellent ergonomics. My knees fit perfectly in the "tank" just like on the Tracer. Unlike the KTM SAS 1290 and Honda CB1000R that I tried earlier. More sporty riding position but still very comfortable. 
• The throttle response is great. I read that this was the hardest part of building an electric motorcycle. It felt completely natural and a lot smoother than on "normal" bikes. Well done Zero!
• The spring on the throttle is also a lot lighter, I'm thinking of modding it to be the same on the Tracer. I often get wrist pains and I think this will help.
• Showa Suspension is not as refined as my Ohlins but I don't think that I would upgrade. It's a lot better than the standard Tracer suspension (as it should be at this price-point) and was set up quite hard.
• Pirelli Diablo Rosso III from the factory. I liked them, first time I tried these. I felt the rear slide a little under hard acceleration out of a corner but they were still a little cold I think.
• Mirrors are positioned low which is also new to me but pretty normal for a sports bike probably. I had good visibility and did not have to adjust which is also a first. I guess that they are further away which means that my height and position has less influence on the reflection than when the mirrors are near to my head.
• Looks. I really like the styling. The tail light looks amazing from the top. It's silly but I can imagine enjoying the look of it each time i turn the key (if I'm not yet sitting on the bike that is). The color scheme is very understated, especially this grey one. I might add some stickers which I would normally not do but that is the only thing that it lacks (which is very subjective of course).
• There's an app to tune the bike but I did not check this out.

Con:

• Not as smooth a riding experience as I had imagined. I felt some clunks in the chassis that I couldn't trace. I could just be small stones between the drive belt perhaps. Also the motor makes a noise at low speeds that I don't like. It sounds unhappy somehow to be moving that slowly. High speeds sound great (think Battlestar Galactica). I am extremely sensitive to anything heard or felt through the chassis so it's probable that it would not bother most people.
• Range. It's still impossible to do tours without planning stops at special terminals to quick-charge. That quick charger is also very expensive add-on, without it it's 4 to 5 hours to charge.
• Dash. Getting back on my 2019 Tracer GT felt like an upgrade in visibility. The zero's layout is fine but it has less brightness and contrast which bothered me. If you have great eyesight this will not be a problem.
• No LED blinkers standard but available as an option. Really?
• Expensive options to unlock extra power and charging capabilities. So this is limited and released via software if you pay even more. I really don't like this. The dealer said they took the idea from Tesla.
• Saddle is really hard. Maybe it should be on a sports bike but I like it softer.
• The brakes are not really a con but I had expected Brembo sports brakes or equivalent. I didn't think that they were better than the Tracer's (with EBC HH pads), although they did feel a bit less squishy. 
• The rear wheel is not weather protected. Riding in the wet will result in your and the bike's backsides getting filthy. That "hugger" doesn't work (I have a Givi on the Tracer that sits a lot closer to the rubber and it does practically nothing).
• The biggest downside is the price. With the right options it's double the price of the Tracer. 
• I will miss working on the bike as there is almost nothing to do. The drive belt can go 40.000 km but they advice to change it after 2 years. Tires and brakes last a lot longer too (engine braking recuperates energy and no gears means less stress on the tires according to Zero dealer)

So I'm going to keep enjoying the Tracer but can see an electric bike in my future. I'm all for the technology and have now confirmed that I will surely have as much fun. Batterie technology will improve a lot very soon I am sure. I'm not going to be an early adopter but I'm excited for the future. 

7 hours ago, vlink12c said:

That's a great bike, You'd love it.

I don't mean to troll but I test rode the NC700 DCT and it was the least fun I've ever had on a motorcycle. I'm sure it's very practical but it felt really boring coming from the Kawasaki 650 platform (Er6/Ninja and Versys).

The Tracer is it's polar opposite, nothing but fun fun fun.  And did I mention fun?

Another vote fot the Road 5's. I bought the Tracer with Dunlop RSIII's and really did not like them in the beginning, but I have to admit that the suspension was probably a big part of the slipping and sliding on wet surfaces. In the end I grew used to them and after getting Ohlins they were fine. I put on the road 5's before leaving on a Switzerland tour last summer and they have been perfect for me. I haven't thought about tyres since, which is a good sign. 

I have to add that I've come to the conclusion that these tyre threads are often not very useful because the riding style is a huge factor but it is seldom disclosed. Commuting vs aggressive B-road cornering requires completely different tyres. 

For the OP's "good grip and decent mileage" I might even recommend the RSIII's which I would never buy again. For better grip I would go with the Road 5's. YMMV

and best of all @keithu.. this will keep you on the forum. 😀

Really interesting. I'm going to look into this. Thanks

41 minutes ago, keithu said:

Yeah, they don't give them away. I got a 0.99% interest rate from Ducati though, which takes a bit of the sting off in this climate of high inflation and rising interest rates. Or at least that's what I'm telling myself. 😜

Congratulations!! Very nice upgrade. After reading the entire thread.. FWIW I have a friend who owns a 2012 pikes peak and he says that he has had no issues worth mentioning after 10 years of hard riding. He said that Ducati still suffers from a bad name while they are actually really well made these days. 

And great deal on the interest. 1% is like they are giving you money, inflation is a real thing.

2 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

What type of gloves do you wear?  That seems like very premature wear on the throttle grip.  Mine has over 19,000 miles with no appreciable wear.  My Kawasaki has 37,000 miles on the original grips with no issues. 

+1

2019 GT with over 20k km's. No wear at all.

Good to hear that your body took the abuse without retaliating too much. I'm late to this thread but just in time to hear the outcome it seems.

Meanwhile I can share my experience with a Versys. I was pushed in a ditch by a (slowly) passing van that didn't take my side cases in account. At first I thought there was no damage and just let the guy go. After cleaning I saw some stuff that worried me and was surprised to get a quote for 3000 euros from the dealer.
The insurance paid without hassle. The damage was all cosmetic apart from the slightly bent handlebars.

So I sold it for 6000 and added the insurance money and tapped lightly in to my savings to buy my current 2019 GT.

If you get the choice I would always choose the money to get another bike that was not hit by anything over a reparation just to be safe. I know all the mods take a long time but it's kind of fun to do it all again anyway.

Anyway I hope you get the outcome that you prefer!

My dealer told me a month or two ago that we would probably be able to order Nikens at cost. I don't quite remember if that came from Japan for from the European importer but I think the former.

He was thinking aloud that he might get one because they are such great value but probably shouldn't as there is no demand to sell it later on.

I agree that it would be a shame to see it go. I've only ever seen one on the road just the one time.

I have the same bike as you and bought it with the comfort seat installed. I'm guessing the anatomy of the rider is also at play because some people say that it's only marginally better while I have absolutely zero complaints about it. I'm always on the lookout for another mod but I don't slide forward on the seat so it wouldn't make sense to try it.

I've never tried a Corbin so I can't compare. It could be that I don't know what I'm missing but coming from cheap plastic Kawa seats, this one is indeed very comfortable. YMMV

4 hours ago, Jayzonk said:

You have to be kidding me!  After seeing the 9GT, this old FZ1 is welcome relief to my brain!  What strange road has Yamaha gone down??  (and all of the other Japanese manufacturers for that matter!)  

I get that the old headlamp style is "old" tech and they are phasing it out so I actually prefer the angry robot look of the MT10 to the undecided-in-between look of the T9 with the double headlights. 

Love it or hate it... It is a no-compromise design choice.