OZVFR

Was the arm worth replacing?

It’s definitely in the to do list 2and3, but it will have to wait. I still have the original sharp turn cable, not sure if the gentler bend one is any better for feel, my biggest gripe is the too small a take up gap. When doing full lock turns from standstill on crappy dirt roads there’s not enough progression from slip to grab. Didn’t like the Bolt one?

Has anyone found a clutch actuator arm that is a bit longer than our stock one? If Yamaha is anything like Honda, they would use nearly the same parts on many bikes. There must be one out there that will fit but is a little bit longer.

The stock front suspension on the 15/16 is undersprung and has practically no damping. It was that bad that not long after I bought it I attached a GoPro to the front of the bike on slomo to see what was happening to the forks. Any fast corner was nearly using up all the fork travel, and when bumps or ripples were hit it nearly bottomed out. The front wheel was leaving the ground on high frequency ripples and I'm only 164lbs. It explained why it would run wide as soon as you hit bumps. Its why I did the front forks first, but adding the rear to the upgrades transformed the bike. I still broke off the feelers though, but I replace them when I do as they're there to tell you how close you are.

I had an RD400 back in the 80's, it was all or nothing.

There seems to be two types of riders, those who track their bikes use of fuel, and those that have no effing idea. Im in the later camp. And agree that the Tracer needs to be kept above 5000rpm. Between 6000 and 9000 is where the magic happens.

I lowered mine (front and back) after owning it a couple of weeks, but also upgraded the suspension. no difference in handling except for hitting the left peg more often. Not much choice when you’re only 5’6”.

You know the old saying, if you’ve got a $150 head, but a $150 helmet.

I still used the Quadlock with the ball mount. It does offer better adjustability, I just didn’t really like it that much sitting so low. If you look at the Quadlock site you will find ball mounts. Im only 5’5” and it definitely isn’t in my field of view. That’s a very short screen on my bike, I still have to look down to read my phone. I already had the ball mount on the handlebars (from Fleabay) as I used it with my GoPro. Just bought the ball mount for the Quadlock.

You can see the ball mount on my handlebar which I used beforehand to place phone at the middle of the bike, but found hard to use when using my tank bag.

Not a GT, but not a lot of difference. I have mine on an accessory bracket above my dash which mounts under the screen bracket (it moves up and down with screen). I find it easier to look at maps as I’m riding.

I can’t make any sense of what he’s trying to explain either. Tapered bearings have 100x the surface contact compared to ball. All race bikes and sports bikes (as well as every other road bike) have ball bearings, I don’t think price has anything to do with it as even the most expensive sports bikes have them. The extra surface contact dulls movement and feel. Not that I think the majority of riders could ever tell the difference. Tapered last a lot longer, but need regular adjustments, ball damage easily but normally don’t need any adjustments before replacement. For our crap roads tapered make much more sense.

I’ve always considered myself as very intune with what’s happening with any of my bikes. I can pick up the slightest change in everything from a couple of psi change to my front tyre, to any new noise or feeling on the bike. Obviously without a dyno it’s impossible to be sure, but I can’t detect any loss of power or acceleration. So if there’s a drop, it’s not enough for me to tell. Sounds bloody awesome though.

I’ll add the obvious, you just need to remove the S bend as well. The original muffler has the cat exiting at the middle chamber, a short pipe connects middle chamber to rear chamber. Then a longer pipe connects rear chamber to front chamber, exit pipe goes through the S bend all the way to the front chamber with a pipe that varies in diameter. No other material inside muffler. It’s not light, but not as heavy as my old 1050 Sprint stock muffler and it’s carried low.

I didn’t remove the cat as I prefer to leave it. No I didn’t reweld the square hole. iI saw no need to remove any internal pipes as the cat now dumps directly to the chamber with the exit pipe. You could do major surgery to remove weight, but as I said, I like to keep things simple. The whole job took me 30 minutes, plus picking it up from muffler shop and re installing it.

this was the only picture I could find in the web before deciding to tackle it in a simpler way.

The hole in the right I think was already there, if not than it's not needed. I had never seen one done so it was a bit of an experiment. They are the only pictures I took. The left side is a square opening directly behind the cat, it's square because it was easier to cut out this way. I just drilled four corners with a stepped drill bit, than used the reciprocating saw to cut it out. Just be very careful to only push in the reciprocating blade just deep enough as you need to cut it, as the cat is close to the divider and can be damaged if you stick it in too far. All stainless, I also got it mig welded at the local muffler shop which charged me AU$50. I am more than happy with how it turned out, sounds much better and doesn't drone.

Being even a bigger cheaparse I went the gutting the original route. I do like the look of the Akra a lot. Not a fan of the Delkevic even though I admit their value for money. I don’t actually mind the look of the original, and now it sounds great. All up cost of AU$70 including new crush gaskets.

I think you and I would get on well. As they say, common sense is not that common.

You probably need to give a bit more information to get a somewhat accurate answer. How many kilometres on the bike, history, where do you live? Too many variables to decide from your very narrow description. The more info you give, the more relevant answer you will get.

I’ve just used up all my brownie points (and lots of money) on my week away with my mates at Phillip Island during busy work period. It will need careful cultivating. 😇

On twisty roads I like to carry some rear brake coming into a corner until after I release front brake and start to accelerate out. When riding hard I like keeping revs over 6000rpm, as I go down the gears coming into corners while using the rear brake and I release clutch, ABS comes on from the extra engine braking which I find too strong for my liking on the Tracer. Never been much of a problem on any other bike, just this one . Hold rear brake, open the throttle hard after apex, slowly release rear brake. Back in the day it was the only way I knew to control wallowing rear ends coming out of corners while fanging it. Guess I never lost the habit.

Thanks Daz, I don't need tempting, I just need to bypass the financial controller.

I’ve been planning a slipper clutch swap as I often feel the ABS on the rear activating when riding with gusto. Did you use an after market one or a later MT one?