OZVFR

Sorry, missed the check engine light on first post. I don’t think side stand operates the engine light. Do you have a manual? If not PM me with your email address and I’ll send you a copy.

Had a quick look the other day while washing it after PI trip and noticed it was very messy, but that’s as far as I got. Not sure if it’s normally open or normally closed. Tip over sensor is next to battery from memory, so wouldn’t think it has a hard life for it to fail. Did anything on the dash change?

Hmmm, double check your side stand switch. Known to gunk up and shit themselves.

This is what's inside a Booster Plug: I didn't say it doesn't work, it's just a very blunt tool. Basically, we are adding additional resistance to the stock IAT by connecting the 2.2K NTC thermistor + 5.6K resistors combination in series to OEM IAT. The IAT resistance in inversely proportional to temperature - meaning increase in temperature causes IAT resistance to lower. By adding additional resistance to the stock IAT, we are trying to tell the ECU that it is cooler than actual temperature. The 5.6K resistor is in parallel to the new NTC thermistor so that once we hit a cooler temperature, the effect of the custom circuit reduces greatly. Hopefully this helps anyone wanting to build their own mod.

They both use more fuel. The plug makes the bike think it’s colder outside by using $0.20 worth of resistors on the air sensor. So more fuel goes in regardless of revs or throttle opening. The flash has different mapping but doesn’t run above optimum fuel/air mixture, so leanness is removed, it also gets rid of the fuel cutoff on closed throttle which is the main culprit of snatchy throttle, It also gets rid of the speed restrictions and stops it going into closed loop fuelling at cruising throttle (another snatchy throttle culprit). Plus radiator fan operating window is lowered to stop it getting too hot before it starts. Many other small things hidden in there but end result is pretty good. Life’s too short to not enjoy a bike to the maximum.

If you can’t stretch to get the flash, then the booster plug is better than nothing. But better value for money is definitely the flash by a mile. It does a hell of a lot more than the plug. Keep in mind that all the plug does is richen the fuel air mixture throughout the whole rev range, weather it needs it or not. It is just plastic box with a few resistors, no electronics whatsoever.

The foot of the stand sits too close to the centre line of the bike, this affects it more than the length. Bad design and not much can be done. I have toyed with the idea of making a new bracket with bigger angle, but not sure how it will sit in the up position.

Ear plugs should have come standard with the owners kit.

This is the best site for comparisons: https://www.gearingcommander.com/

Funny how everyone find’s different things to change on our bikes. I’ve been actually thinking of changing to a smaller front sprocket to liven things up. I don’t need to do 240kmh, but would like to get there quicker.

The Packtalk Bold will connect to any bluetooth unit, I have the same one and find it the best comms unit I've ever had. So you can shop for any cheaper unit and still connect no problem Even though I try to buy here even when things are dearer, I couldn't justify the nearly 100% markup on the Cardo comms. I buy many things from Chromeburner, and over the years have nothing but good things to say about them The Packtalk Bold set me back $330 landed from them, and took a week to arrive.

You can’t just plug them in to one connector. You need to use one wire from each stock connector as one wire does nothing and only bridges the two grips. Should be clear as mud now. One stock connector has a negative wire, and one wire that goes to the second connector. This connector has this wire and a positive wire. so you need the negative wire from one, and the positive wire from the other.

+ 1 on the foot pegs. A great value for money addition.

The sound of summer Daz.

I did the yearly Rylstone Street Feast with my mates a few years ago (we do it every year except for the covid wipe out) and it was 46°C. Always wear my full leathers. The fantastic roads made it bearable, but I can't say it was pleasant. OK when its low humidity, but lately in Sydney we've been hitting 98%, that's unheard off. Give me winter any day.

As most have said, at 200lb you really need both ends done. The 15/16 bikes had a really soft and way underdamped front end, but also a crap shock, so different people find one end better than the other to do on its own. I did front first because of my riding style, I just found the front end seriously wanting and on the verge of being dangerous. But once I did the front it really showed up the rear. It’s now a different bike.

I can vouch for Superbrightleds, I’ve bought different bulbs from them over the years and found all their stuff is good quality and have accurate descriptions.

Yes, change the springs. Stock is only set up for someone that weighs around 125lb, so you’re way of the scale. 0.95 or even 1kg/mm springs and heavier oil should do the trick, actually it will transform the bike. Even better if you get it revalved.

Yes, I only have one auxiliary output left at the front as I’ve already used 2. One for my driving lights (relay on only), the other for my dual USB in my tank bag. Tried many LED blinkers on both my VFR and Sprint, went back to incandescent on both. Actually had better results with LED bulbs.

Interesting stuff Dazz. I’ve looked at the Stedi as it’s now premium price gear and the blinkers were on my list. I did question the price of their top range 24” light bar for my 4x4 @ $890. WTF. My mate bought the 25w wide angle bike driving lights @$79 each I bought a pair which I think are the exact same light as we pulled them apart to check for $40 a pair from Fleabay, and could not tell the difference riding at night. Good LED blinkers are hard to find from my own experimentation, many out there that people use that are seriously crap. I’ll wait for your report.

I feel your pain. Here in Sydney, our winter gets as low as 15*C 😱

No matter the stock parasitic draw, any decent battery will last many weeks without a tender. Even in winter, my bike starts the moment it starts to turn many weeks after standing. On my tour of LA to Whistler over 6 weeks, when I got back to Oz the bike started straight away without any hesitation. Way too much thought has gone into this thread. You should be fine with the battery you bought.

If your battery is only 12.2v fully charged it’s stuffed. It should be around 13.1v. I was going to ask earlier if you tested the battery, I assumed that you had.

I've had an SSB lithium battery on my Tracer for over a year. The actual battery was installed on my 1050 Sprint a year before that, and I pulled it out when I sold it. Many times the bike has sat for over 4 weeks with no noticeable drop when used again. It starts better and faster than with the Yuasa gel. It even went flat once, after leaving a phone charger pugged in for a week and had no problem recharging it with a standard charger. (SSB have a cut out circuit to stop it going completely flat)

What the hell, I’ve had my identity stolen.