OZVFR

What the hell, I’ve had my identity stolen.

https://aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

Yes it is. and sorry if I sounded harsh beforehand, I was just trying to stress the importance of getting it right.

I haven't done the valves on the Tracer, but I've done it on more bikes than I care to remember. I don't think that's a timing punch, are you sure you know what you're doing? Getting it wrong will be terminal. Do you have a manual?

This one I could do.

That I can nearly guarantee. Every time I've rebuilt, valved and resprung forks I've managed to find a new way to make a mess. The last time while doing my 1050 Sprint forks, I was very pleased that I finished and managed to not spill or spray oil anywhere. I then proceeded to put my foot in the oil pan and kick it across my driveway while wearing new sneakers. Pretty sure it's one of the laws of physics.

Hard acceleration pulls on the top of the rear sprocket trying to bring rear wheel closer, and causes it to push on the rear spring so wheel lifts. Clear as mud.

Yes, all straight cut as are most motorcycles ever made. I have a 15, and it also has a terrible whine in 3rd and 6th. I wear earplugs all the time anyway, but it’s still shit. I always like to keep my revs up anyway, so don’t really use 6 that much, but sometimes you have to and it’s annoying.

^ as Betony said. They don’t have enough weight on the front wheel, they also suffer from front end being undersprung and underdamped. Rear spring is not too bad if you’re a light weight, but also severely underdamped. There’s no body light enough for the stock front springs. The least you can do is new front springs, slightly heavier oil and a bit more oil height as stock setting has too much air gap. Best option is to throw out all the original suspension, and if you’re tall enough also raise the rear end by 15mm. Im short so couldn’t raise the rear, but dropped the front 15mm and that made a big difference. My own experience is that they’re also sensitive to tyre choice. But once set up correctly are a very fun bike on the tight stuff, even fully loaded.

I’ve seen the video you referred to, and I thought it was really overcomplicating a simple job. The cat is attached to the headers and empties into the middle chamber, a separate pipe connects the middle chamber to the rear chamber. A longer pipe connects the rear chamber to the front chamber. The exit pipe goes through the rear and middle chamber all the way to the front. the hole I cut is in the plate between the rear and middle chambers directly behind the cat. The S bend I cut out as close as possible to the plate and muffler exit point. it’s not that loud, specially at idle or up to 4000rpm, but has a nice sound that makes its presence known. After that it screams beautifully. I tour a lot so didn’t want an obnoxious drone.

There is no filling inside the stock muffler, and I never used any either. I just cut out the S bend, and opened the rear partition directly behind the cat with a circular saw to roughly the same size as the cat exit.

This is all the opening I needed for the modification.

Gutting it is simple and sounds miles better, but not much difference to flow as exit port is the same. Headers and cat dump into the middle chamber, then a pipe takes it to the rear chamber, from there another pipe takes it to the front chamber where the exit pipe picks it up and out. Took all of 30 minutes to modify, then took it to a muffler shop and got it rewelded. I’m very happy with it.

I’ve cut a piece of timber which is the right length to keep both wheels of the ground and I place it on my rear rack and under my garage timber roof truss. Then ratchet strap under rack and over roof timber. Solid as and safe to remove wheels, forks, swing arm or all of the above.

Finally got around to doing the screen adjuster mod. So easy, took all of 10 minutes and $20, what a difference. The whole screen is now much stiffer without the shake.

Make sure your rear suspension sag is set correctly. These bikes suffer from not enough weight on the front wheel as is, without making things worse by the rear sitting too low. It sounds counterintuitive, but drop the front (raise the forks on the triple clamps) 15mm and it will improve things as long as you’re not too heavy for the weak stock front springs. I’ve never been a fan of the stock hand guards as they introduce too much turbulence, but some people like them. Some tyres are known to also cause this as they get older. As people have already said, set your suspension properly if you haven’t done so already.

New lid today

I've got an SSB lithium battery, and even though in Sydney we don't get very cold, the bike has been left outside overnight at a camp site where it was -5°C. It started normally next morning no problems.

I disabled that feature as I didn’t like it cutting power when rev matching. It also took me a few tries to get it how I liked it, eventually removing bot washers and getting tension right.

Could be the front sprocket seal. By the way, that front sprocket is in bad need of replacing.

Every motor with under bucket shim adjustment on overhead cams will tighten with use. I also think 40,000km is too long on any brand no matter what the manual says. I had the same problem when I took the Mitsubishi Triton for adjustment, the mechanic said he checked by sound and they were all ok. Obviously has no experience with shim under bucket.

There’s a B mode?

Haa, you're as old as me if you remember that story.

Let her rip mate. The NC redlines at 6500rpm I think. The tracer at 10500rpm. Slight difference I think. I never change gears under 4000rpm, and will hold gears even in traffic above that. Below 4000 you’re just labouring the motor. When I’m in fun mode I let it sit around 6000rpm and will often take it to 9000rpm and above.