OZVFR

Ha, I just realised that it's not a top box but a fuel cell. I can't afford to give up that much space. I reminds me of touring with my mate on his Tuono, we had to stop at every fuel station to make sure he made it. Bloody annoying. The record was fuelling up 10 times over 2 days on our way to Phillip Island which is a 1200km trip.

I’ve been thinking of the same thing. My only concern is the small tank, how do you find the short touring range? If it had a 20L tank I’d be right on it.

The only person that has to like it is you. Some of us are horrified at sticking a spike into the muffler and bashing it to make a hole, you have no control of how it behaves. This is just a forum, you find answers or post ideas and get feed back, people are too sensitive these days. I'm sure it will sound better than the stock gasper.

Decided that there was no way in hell that I was going to pay the amount of money they are asking for screens, so made my own. 2hrs of work and I’m happy, will have to wait to see how it goes, might need some tweaking.

😱 Calling it a mod is stretching a bit. I have modified mine, removed the S bend and opened up between second and third chamber. Sounds great without being obnoxious. All up only took me around 1 hour plus taking it to the muffler shop to get it rewelded.

I’ve got the Yamaha lowering links on my 15 and dropped the front by the same amount (15mm). No problems with the stand scraping but I’ve cut the ridiculously high stop rubber as can be seen in this picture, and have replaced my suspension on both ends I do however scrape my pegs even though they have a lot shorter feelers. They do stick out a bit more and this might be the cause. No difference in handling and much better with no front end dive. I’m a bit careful though with speed humps, otherwise no problem at all even fully loaded. Actually it is worlds apart from the stock set up.

You can also swap out the rear linkage dog bone with a stock or after market lowering link. Then you won't lose lose suspension travel, much better option than shorter spring. And also agree to go with the 0.95.

It’s the same here, bloody Harleys.

From my past research, I think the only difference is the later shock has a slightly stiffer spring to accommodate the longer swingarm, length is the same. Not much point in changing a crap shock with another crap shock. Also keep in mind that Yamaha has built the Tracer shock upside down, so any other shock will be really hard to adjust without a remote adjuster.

Chain’s never worried me, but giving up single sided swingarms was a hard decision.

😱 quirks and imperfections? Honda's don't have quirks, just character traits. And if they have kinks, its obviously because some KTM or Harley parts got mixed in by their suppliers 😜 Reminds me about a conversation with a Harley owner when I asked what the point of having mirrors was when the bike vibrated so much. He stated that Harleys didn't vibrate, they power pulsed.

It's a Honda, it won't have any kinks.

I don’t know anything about Noco, but I’ve had an SSB lithium battery on my Tracer for 2 and a half years. Before that the same battery was in my 1050 Sprint for a bit over a year. I’ve had no problems, starts better and a third of the weight. Some people are worried about cold weather starting, but I’ve had no problem starting the bike while camping at -2*C.

I don't have a Penske, but I can guarantee you it will not match up to the stock adjuster. Yamaha in their wisdom built the Tracer shock upside down. But the shock he's selling might come with a remote preload adjuster.

It seems a silly question, but have you adjusted the gear lever up? I have size 43 boots that are very heavy duty and have no problems with fit under it. it’s a bit too high when I wear my summer short ventilated boots but not enough to readjust.

Just a thought, my 15 sometimes has more front lever travel than other times, not often but enough that I have noticed. At first I thought it might have been air, as I removed the MC and held it at an angle so any bubble stuck at the banjo would escape up through the feed hole. It felt better after so I thought that was it, but have noticed it again since. If you're using MC that has more travel, this might be why it goes so far as opposed to the stock one when this strange thing happens. I have EBC HH pads and stopping is excellent, even better when hot. On a very spirited ride in the Snowy Mountains last year I was working the brakes very hard going into corners on a fully loaded bike. They were good but not superb, then I felt a big crack through the lever, I stopped to check because it felt like a disk had cracked. Couldn't find anything but the brakes have been fantastic since. No idea what caused this, but it has never happened again. I wonder if it was a stuck piston?

He either had no idea what he’s talking about, or wanted to sell what he had.

My faster than red stealth grey looks better in gold 😉

it does

Great find, doesn't look like the lids are available any more unfortunately.

No, rubber mallet. But I very accurately guessed how hard to beat the crap out of it. Grab a mallet 2&3, repeat to yourself: "this is not rocket science", and go for it 🙂 It actually only took one hit.

Yep, I did it successfully. It wasn’t a lot but enough to make a difference.

On a work meeting.

I can’t imagine that leaving ignition on with kill switch on off position for a while would drain your battery that quickly, unless your battery is on its final legs. I swapped to a Lithium on my Sprint over three years ago and then swapped it into the Tracer when I bought it and haven’t looked back. Less than half the weight and 10 Ah.

I thought you might be OCD 2&3, but just realised the you're actually CDO 😄