OZVFR

Yes, it allows fresh air to go in to help burn off unburnt fuel as it passes the very hot cat. AIS or no AIS makes no difference to performance, and I happen to like the popping and farting on a closed throttle as it goes past the 4000's rpm mark.

No, you just need to tell whoever’s doing it that you have a stock system.

I’ll have to hunt around for it in my random filing system. I made a cardboard template, then cut it oversized on some Perspex. Used bench grinder to get it to final size and shape. Then heated it up with heat gun to give it a slight bend. It works well on my screen which is wider at the bottom than the top.

3M double sided tape (sticks like shit to a blanket) and a heat gun to bend it into shape, have stood the test of 1000's of km. They just add a bit more protection from the elements.

I've worked with air flow in my work life for years, the problem was the turbulence created by the edge of the screen. I had a bit of a serious look at what was happening and thought of this. It allows air to be deflected, but sucks enough from under the screen to clean up the swirl, the rounded edge also helps to soften it. It's actually a very small screen. I still get hit by airflow on the front of my helmet, but its smooth. I'm not a fan of tall screens or beaks.

Made my own wind deflector for my adapted MT10 screen. Tried a clip on wing but wasn’t happy with turbulence. It’s surprising how well this small thing cleans up the air. Super happy.

+ 1 for the Fleabay FJR1300 pegs, made a huge difference to me as I couldn't stand the made for children stock ones.

This site is really good to compare accurate results of changes to front, rear or both sprockets. you can load your bike and three different set ups to compare. I’ve used it for years with all my bikes as I usually add 2 teeth to rear. https://www.gearingcommander.com

Keep in mind that every suspension needs correct spring and matching valving for the rider to get the best out of it. A properly set up high range suspension is still not as good as a properly set up ESA. Wether some riders notice any difference or indeed need it, is a different story. I also think some people are missing the point of what ESA is good for.

The latest is the full Akra for the Tracer. They were selling them as new for AU$1050, now they’re saying that they’re second hand for the same price. A quick look shows that it’s a copy, no link pipes and different exit pipe. Problem is people are paying too much money for a much lower quality fake. Fine if they advertise it as a fake copy, but a rip off for people who think they’re buying the real thing. Many other examples. Caveat emptor.

I can’t say I know, but I don’t think servicing should be any harder that normal USD forks. You could always just ring your local suspension shop and ask. And yes, 75000km is too long, but he bought the bike with 50000km on it so not sure if it’s been done, and I must say it still handled superbly

Just replaced my rear with a Road 6, AU$406. What a ripoff.

You might be onto something here, didn't think of it that way. On my Healtech QS, I can set it to sense on push, pull, or both. You won't get it to blip, but it should cut ignition both ways. Only issue might be delay and cutoff times.

Not an Tracer, but my mate has three Triumph 1200 Explorers. Fist model, second model and third model. (don't ask) The last two both have ESA, and the first had the suspension redone with correct springs and Gold Valves by Racetech, the other two are stock. The second has over 75000km on it and untouched, I have ridden all of them on long trips and can definitely say that the ESA is much much better than the Racetech set up. The third is better again, but it could be to being a fair bit lighter than the previous two. The ability to change damping and preload on the go in a fraction of a second shouldn't be underestimated. Comfortable one second, hit a corner hard the next under brakes and it displays no dive and mind bending amounts of grip no matter the surface, and this is still a heavy bike on skinny tyres. Best thing since sliced bread.

Are you sure the seat wasn’t in the high position?

Correct, they have their own circuit board, but not all QS that have downshift have auto blippers. I have a Healteck QS, no outdo blipper on it, and not really made for downshift, but I still manage to do them without a problem. I actually very rarely use the clutch after taking off unless I’m in traffic, under 4500rpm or coming to a stop. Even second to first is very smooth if you know what you’re doing.

Quick shifters or the sensor and rod are a dumb item, the cutting, delay and auto blip happens in the ECU. Swapping a QS from one bike to another is not going to give you extra features. A lot of stuff is happening in the background once you start moving the gear lever. There is an initial delay, than a cut off time, all change according to revs and sometimes even gear you're selecting.

Not sure on other brands, but Apple phones have GPS built in. All you need is the right App. I've been using my IPhone for wilderness trekking for years.

Driving the Oregon coast on the way to Whistler we nearly hit a pack of Elk (group, herd, swarm?) crossing the road, I prefer to hit a roo I think.

All my friends have changed over to Quadlock over the last few years after seeing my one. Antivibe mount with wireless charging is the go, no other brand comes close. Peak Designs are good, they make camera tripod mounts and camera straps which I use, pricy but good, they don't do anything better than Quadlock for motorcycles IMO.

I wish they were cannons sometimes, hit a kangaroo at 120 on my VFR, at the last second I stood up and gunned it. Only broke my mudguard and front wheel needed realigning, but a little bit of poop came out of me. My mate hit an emu doing 160, broke the top triple clamp but somehow stayed upright, the emu exploded. Over the years I've hit kangaroos, one emu, goannas, dingos, an eagle (that one took me by surprise), a flock of cockatoos doing 180, one got my throttle hand and went through my glove and drew blood, a plague of locust that lifted from a field and went across the front of me doing 150 and instantly totally blocked my visor and went into my partially open jacket and inside my helmet. It was mid summer and 47°C with 140km to go, had to use my last bit of water to try clean my visor so I could see where I was going. A force field would be a better option, I think that's on the next model Tracer.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/174359209617 Not sure if they works with beak as I threw mine out when I bought bike, it's not an adventure bike and does nothing in my view. Excellent fit and super sturdy.

I went for the popcorn when this thread as many others turned into a pissing competition. I originally was going to ask if the OP came from a cruiser, it would explain his feeling that the rear brake is weak. But then I read he had midsized sports bikes beforehand, so if he thinks it’s weak the chances are there’s something wrong as the stock rear is pretty good I think. Relying on engine braking is a bad habit, much better to actually learn to ride properly. Getting more popcorn now.

Just make sure any PDF manual you buy to download is indexed, if not you'll be scrolling through hundreds of pages trying to find what you want.

Hear hear, sooner or later, we all get caught out and active cruise is a help regardless of how good you think you are. Lots of people complained about ABS when it first came out, and even quickshifters, I read somebody here saying that they don't need it because they can clutchless shift just as fast 😆 . Auto cruise is good, active cruise is better, cornering ABS, quikshifters, ESA suspension, it is all bloody awesome. My brother in law who is an accredited professional idiot refuses to use the auto headlights in his car, when I asked him why he stated "mate, I decide when the headlights go on". Fight the wars you know you can win I say.