OZVFR

Does anyone now which year R1 disk rotors fit the offset and bolt pattern of the Tracer?

All good now, stocked up on popcorn so please go on 😁 I for one think that the more safety features the better, I also think that a bike with all the bells and whistles will be a safer bike than one without regardless of your riding skills. Using an argument about an uncle who rode around WooWoop in the 60’s and made it back alive is ludicrous. So is arguing about using adaptive cruise control while lane filtering will make it brake all the time. FFS, nobody can save someone from their own stupidity. The right tool for the right job. I very rarely use motorways, but would love adaptive cruise in that situation. Cornering ABS, yes please, all these things are great for that one time you get caught unawares, or lose concentration for a second, or conditions change without you realising it. It does not matter if you’re a pro or novice. Also at the end, it’s a personal choice, but today’s bikes are definitely safer than the old shitboxes we had in the 80’s.

It’s too big a torque wrench for 12lb I use a 1/4” for anything under 20lb, 3/8” for anything over, and my 1/2” for anything over 50lb. Right tool for every job. Not everyone has such range, but a 1/4” torque wrench is very useful for working on bikes as they use lots of small bolts on soft aluminium cases.

Here's a better picture. the mount I got from Italy, super strong and very well designed. Lights don’t move at all.

Yep, Metzelers 01 SE's. I changed the rear around 3000km's ago, now front. I was a die hard Rosso III fan, used them on my VFR, Sprint ST since they came out and, a set on the Tracer, but 7000Km form the rear and 9000km from the front, and destroyed 2 of them on rough dirt roads, one of them with a stick the size of my thumb that went right through the middle of the rear tyre at 900km from new (they're too soft a carcass for that) means they no longer meet my riding type. So far so good, had a really good ride a week ago when I got caught out with a massive down pour half way. I think I managed to ride in the wet nearly as fast as the dry. And I don't pussy foot around.

I finally installed driving lights and got new tyres.

The earth block problem was on the 98 to 01 VFR's. Hidden inside the wiring harness of the VFR, there is a block junction to all the earths which are joined to a cable that goes to the frame. This gets corrosion over the years and causes problems. No idea if the VTR has the same. Anyway, PM me if you want so we're not filling this post with irrelevant information.

Bloody hell, you’re right about the spaghetti. Not sure on the VTR, but on the VFR the earth block is a known issue that causes bad starting, among other things like lights in dash glowing for no reason sometimes. My old 1050 Sprint ST also had notoriously lazy starting, it always sounded like the battery was bad. it was cured with a quality Lithium battery, when I sold the bike I kept the battery which is now in the Tracer. Both bikes start instantly.

Just to clarify: Setting correct ect sag does not change the softness or hardness of suspension. You can’t change the spring rate by preload. It just sets the shock or forks to have the correct amount of up and down travel. Or in other words it sets the suspension to where it will have the most amount of control. Changing rebound will change how it reacts, but not preload.

Made specifically for the Tracer. Centre stand is maintained. A few different mufflers to choose from as well.

For the money, it doesn’t look like a great system. Spring joints all over the place which can be a bit of a nightmare to seal if fitment is not straight. No equaliser pipes between the headers for exhaust scavenging could make it drop some torque at lower revs. And it doesn’t look like it lines up at all. When they’re made up of so many parts, it’s usually because they can’t line them up properly in one piece. You’d be better off with a Delkevic full system, cheaper as well.

They were out, but not enough to worry about, but since I had it apart for a full service including replacing all hoses, O rings, gaskets, valve shims and plugs, I thought it was worth doing. Once you pull apart a V4 this much, you might as well do everything.

Or if you can’t do this for whatever reason, you could always send the injectors to get serviced and flow matched. It doesn’t cost much and you’ll then be sure they are ok. I did this for my VFR on the 100,000km service. They tested them first, then rebuilt them and flow matched them. All with a full before after report, if I remember correctly it was around AU$65 per injector.

You must be very easily insulted then. Grow some skin man. I still stand by what I said, I'm sure it's not coolant as it would be easily recognisable.

All those people who are saying it could be coolant leaking into oil have obviously never seen oil that has coolant mixed with it. Guarantee that it’s not the problem here, you would know as soon as you look at it. It’s just a Tracer thing.

I always string line the bike the first time, then just count flats from then on. And I’ll add that after string lining it and checking twice, I found the stock markings and measurements from swingarm flat to both be out, so if you’re wanting to make sure the bike is tracking true, then stringline is the only accurate way. I’ve always kept all my chains at 30 to 40mm slack and never had shortened life issues. The stock 15 recommended 5 to 15mm is a joke.

I would definitely pull it out and send it far away, say to Australia for maybe $300 or so. Hey, that’s a coincidence, I’m after one as it happens.

A light bike that's a bit tall and too much weight up high will always be a problem. You will never get the low cost stock shock (set up for a 170lb rider) to suit two people and luggage without major work. How much weight are you putting on the bike? I always thought the stock side stand sat too close to the bike which won't help things either. This shouldn't be too hard to modify. It even nearly tips over with just me and luggage.

Like all Googled answers, it's not an accurate story. A lot has to do with new pollution and efficiency laws, the bikes run very lean at certain conditions, and this makes for a very snatchy throttle. Flashing ignores what is legally required, and tunes for performance instead. Not necessarily more power, but better throttle control (power usually comes with it) as well as other benefits. One huge benefit on the Tracer is removing the fuel cut off on closed throttle which is absolute crap and affects the most at low speeds and cornering. There are others as well depending on what flash you use.

Keep in mind that once that shock is installed there will be no way of adjusting the spring preload without removing it. Seems like a crazy idea for a bike that will have varying loads.

A cable tie is the easiest way to be sure. I'm 72kg (158lb) and used to bottom out the front all the time until I replaced springs and valves/shim stacks. I don't think your 17 is much difference to my 15 spring wise. The stock rear shock (a tin can with a toilet plunger, a spring and 2 tea spoons of oil) is the cheapest of the cheap. Impossible to get working well, replacement is only bang for buck option.

Set your front sag correctly, than use a cable tie on the front fork to see if you're bottoming out. My guess is that you are.

^ agree, I changed my chain to a heavy duty DID, adjusted it after 1500km, have done another 5000km since and still doesn't need any adjusting. I carry a fair bit of weight on trips, and wring it's neck often.

The bike sits a bit more upright, but it hasn’t been a problem. Toyed with the idea of shortening the side stand, but so far hasn’t been worth it

The top of the stock forks are the same height as the top of the triple clamp, you just need to raise them 15mm above the triples. No problem at all when I did mine, but I’m only 72kg and have replaced all the suspension with quality gear to suit.