OZVFR

You’re confusing crank angle with firing intervals. Crank is at 120*, but firing intervals are at 240*. No spaces in between. 240, 240, 240 and so on. They don’t fire 1-2-3. Not a lot different to a 4 cylinder with equal gaps. The Triumph T plane fires at 180, 270, 270. Or the Honda V4: 180, 180, 90, 270. Ahh, music to my ears. Sorry for all the edits, it’s Friday night and too many Wild Turkeys. Typing with one eye shut

The new Triumph Tiger 900 as well as the new 1200 coming soon both have a T plane triple. Much better sound than the CP3 and better power delivery down low.

CP3 does sound better than "the new Yamaha comes with a Normal 3 Cylinder engine" Back n the 80's I had a Laverda RGS1000, it had a 180° crank triple that sounded better but vibrated so much that it had to have rubber engine mounts to keep it under control.

It doesn’t need much play at all on the bearing and linkages to make it look worse on the rear tyre. My VFR, Sprint ST and my Tracer were/are all the same. I clocked up 146,000km on my VFR and 45,000km on the Sprint, never got worse. I don’t think it’s an issue.

I've also found the RAM X mount to be crap. I've been using the Quadlock with the anti vibration mount for a couple of years with no problem. Fast, secure and easy to use in all weather with the raincoat, good bit of kit.

It’s a seriously mad machine. I borrow my mates 18 model now and then, it still has a high frequency vibration that really annoys me, but there’s no doubt about its ability. Think of the Tracer with 50 more horsepower, much better suspension, nearly the same weight and top notch electronics. It’s a weapon.

Same here, one of the best bang for buck mods. Much easier and faster to drill out the flared end, took me less than 10 minutes to do the whole job.

How to butcher and hack something with no benefit.

So it’s an absolutely normal HD

Same here, I’ve always thought the Tracer to be the best bike I’ve owned for not blasting you with heat, even in traffic. I wear full leathers most of the year or on long trips, and Kevlar jeans in really hot days, always wear my boots. I’ve never really noticed any heat at all.

Can’t see your picture, but I’ve seen the screen you’re talking about and it’s very similar. The shape just made sense to me, so I looked around for something like it that would fit. I swapped bikes with my best mate who I’ve been riding with for more years than I can remember when I originally got the Tracer, his first statement was “that screen is the most shit I’ve ever ridden with”, and he’s right. The new screen splits the air to the sides, and the hole and little scoop in the middle bleeds in enough air upwards to clean up the turbulence and make it very quiet and smooth. Haven’t taken it on a trip yet, but for my 5’7” height up to 60m/h it’s light years ahead

I got sick of the useless stock screen and all the turbulence and noise it created. Fitted one designed for the MT10, it didn’t take much to modify it. It splits the air beautifully and can’t get over how smooth the air flow is and how much quieter it is. I also think it’s the way the original should always have looked like. I must admit, I much prefer bugs all over me than to put up with that badly designed stocker

I don’t know about the Tracer being load, but it’s definitely louder than an FJR or such There’s no packing inside a Tracer muffler, just 3 chambers and pipes going between them, and you won’t be able to stuff anything up the exit pipe as it snakes it’s way to the front chamber. I must admit the Tracer is the quietest bike I’ve ever owned, so much so that I did some surgery to it to make it more respectable. Easy to tell if your pipe has been modified by looking underneath towards the rear and looking for welding where it was cut open like this: The Tracer does have a lot of mechanical and wind noise, and peoples hearing can be sensitive to different frequencies, ear plugs are your friend.

Trying to address this as a problem that can be easily fixed or easily identified is problematic. No 2 motors are the same, no matter the make or type. This is the downside to mass production. Manufacturing processes have tolerances that are + or - by so much, if all the bits end up on the wrong side of everything matching, you end up with a lose engine, if everything ends up on the good side you end up with a tight engine. Castings and parts can vary in weight or even roundness. The only way to get a perfect motor is to blue print and balance, a very expensive option. My gut feeling on my 15 model is that the drive train is the main culprit, it seems particularly lose on the Tracers. I have a very annoying and loud whine in third and fifth gear, some people don't. And by the way, chains don't go off by sitting in a showroom for years, never heard a more ridiculous assumption, it's a metal chain FFS. I did have a slight idle and low revs vibration and uneven firing that was addressed with a TB sync, and I do run the chain a lot loser than the manual states, as on the 15 model they ask for stupid tight (don't think this is a problem on the GT).

I changed out the original tiny stock foot pegs for a different reason, used the ones for the FJR1300 which fit straight on. These are a larger peg with rubber pads, your foot ends up sitting 1/2” higher as a result. Not sure if it’s enough for what you want but it is a very cheap option.

A damped front sprocket is identical to a non one, except for a rubber cushion stuck to both sides of it to slow down the chain hitting the teeth. It is only for chain noise nothing else.

Just curious if the people having these issues are on the heavy side. Never underestimate the impact of the rear shock on front end stability. If not set correctly for sag, or if you’re too heavy for the stock spring it could easily do what’s described here. Badly adjusted rebound damping could also make things worse.

As stated above, AIS injects fresh air into the exhaust just after the exhaust valves to help get rid of unburnt fuel in the system via ignition from a very hot catalytic converter, hence the popping O2 sensor checks exhaust gases and comes into play at cruising speed (where it goes into closed loop) to raise your air/fuel mixture (run lean) for better fuel economy and lower emissions. At idle or when riding hard or high revs it does nothing.

Any heat pads will work with the stock system, you just need to rewire them. Then you can use any grips you like.

That would have to be the pinnacle of stupidity, to have a center stand but not be able to use it to check oil level. How does that engineer still have a job?

I’ve never bothered to measure it since there’s a sight glass. Its what it’s there for.

Yes, put one on mine 2 weeks ago before a 2100km 3 day ride. Made a huge difference to noise and buffeting, my helmet is in clean air. Not as good as having a good fairing like an older style sports tourer, but for my 5’6” height it works a lot better than stock.

You ran 38PSI on the front and it felt fine? To me the Tracer lacks front end feel at 32PSI let alone 38PSI. I’ve also raised the forks 10mm to try and place a bit more weight on the front wheel.

As I stated before, I don't get offended by what people say in a forum, it's pointless. When I picked the bike up the first thing I noticed was the super tight chain and loosened it to 25mm slack straight away. I also did an oil change with Motul 7100, brake fluid flush, coolant change as I do with every bike I buy so that I have a reference point. The Triumph triples have a primary drive whine that is constant with engine revs, not a gearbox whine, I know as I had one and it wasn't ear hurting like the Tracer. My old VFR had a loud gear drive cam whine that again was constant with engine revs and didn't bother me. If I ever find a Tracer gearbox I would be keen to inspect it to see why this is only in 3rd and 6th.

I wouldn't worry too much, nearly all visitors make it back home again. As for the big red, they live to fight and mate, hence the build.