Headlight Assembly problem! Help!!

[dazzler24]

3 hours ago, skipperT said:

-when Daz says HCU and I say LCU we are talking about the same component.

Yes - I should have made that clear.

-the Y/Bk wire only exists off a parallel connection off of the Y wire and is used by the LH switch. I think it may be a Y wire X2 at the 6P connector. This is marked in the electrical diagram screenshot that Daz posted but it’s difficult to see. However it’s an important detail to keep in mind. 

See this pic for more clarity and note where the Y/B wire 'changes to the Y wire on the other side of the Hi beam switch to the HCU.  Note that Lo beam is still Y/B at HCU.

 

Expand this response for more details.

[dazzler24]

4 hours ago, skipperT said:

Thanks man!

So I again tested while running and I can confirm that there is 'no headlight high beam symbol' coming up on the dash when running, not in pass or in high beam position.
Also there is no low/high beam shining during that test.

What Daz is saying is accurate, based on my interpretation of the wiring diagram as well. If you look closely just above the “block” which represents the LCU/HCU you’ll see a “dot” that indicates that the wire running between the high beam indicator and the LCU parallel connects to that wire at some point. Meaning, the high beam indicator will or won’t come on based on a complete circuit being present on that wire ie when the high beam is on. 
Agreed and posted with picture in my previous post.

Also a few questions.
To prevent having to dismantle half the bike to take the tank off, is there any way to test the HCU to see if it is the problem? The guy I bought it from did say that he tried a replacement HCU and that didn't solve the problem. He suspected then that it was the headlight, but I have all but discounted what he has said and would rather check myself. 
 

Hate to break it to you but the ECM lives under the tank, so it’s coming off if you want to pursue troubleshooting this issue. Shouldn’t take more than 10-15 minutes to get to the ECM.
If for arguments sake we can say that the guy did actually swap the HCU/LCU and still got the same result AND the fact that you are not getting a high beam indicator light come up in your testing would support the theory that the problem still does seem to indicate that you have either an ECU problem or broken continuity on that Y/B wire from the ECU.

 

Expand above for more details.

 

***** Question to you @skipperT and this is very important to your testing @cantin-  ******

I'm concerned that the signal that the ECU puts out is in fact a voltage above ground and NOT a ground/earth.

If correct, then cantin definately DO NOT apply an earth to the Y or Y/B wire at the HCU/LCU until this is confirmed.

This voltage may not necessarily be 12 V but a lower (signal) voltage.

Just looking at the circuit again - the hi beam indicator LED (diode) is shown as forward biased (on) when a positive voltage is applied to its base which is in effect connected to that ECU pin (on high beam).

Continuing the wiring from the other side if the Hi beam indicator shows that it (cathode side of diode) does in fact go back to ground.  See pic below...

Happy to be corrected of course but in the mean time caution is the key.

[skipperT]

3 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Expand above for more details.

 

***** Question to you @skipperT and this is very important to your testing @cantin-  ******

I'm concerned that the signal that the ECU puts out is in fact a voltage above ground and NOT a ground/earth.

If correct, then cantin definately DO NOT apply an earth to the Y or Y/B wire at the HCU/LCU until this is confirmed.

This voltage may not necessarily be 12 V but a lower (signal) voltage.

Just looking at the circuit again - the hi beam indicator LED (diode) is shown as forward biased (on) when a positive voltage is applied to its base which is in effect connected to that ECU pin (on high beam).

Continuing the wiring from the other side if the Hi beam indicator shows that it (cathode side of diode) does in fact go back to ground.  See pic below...

Happy to be corrected of course but in the mean time caution is the key.

Agreed. I don’t know the answer to that, @dazzler24  to my knowledge Yamaha doesn’t play with using a minimal voltage to switch circuits, everything is either 12v or 5v for FI sensors. However motorcycle repair and design changes rapidly depending on what systems are present on a given bike. 
So in summary I’m not sure.

 Can’t we back probe a known working bike (mine) and determine this Daz? (Or someone else smarter than me… Bueller?)

my initial thought is that the diode is there strictly to protect the delicate circuitry in the instrument cluster.

however depending on location it could also explain why some people blow their ECM’s when connecting passing lamps to be relay activated by the headlight circuit, while others are successful in not damaging anything while making similar connections. I had always assumed this was due to 1, where people connect the wire to trigger the relay and 2, using a sub-standard relay that lacked a diode to protect the trigger circuit from damage. (However I’m not an engineer, and some of this theory has been forgotten)

I can fire my bike up for research…

- skip

Edited January 31, 2022 by skipperT

[dazzler24]

EDIT: - I've posted this without seeing @skipperT response above just to put things in perspective.

 

OK, my curiosity got the better of me and I had to check.

This is the colour code of my 6 pin plug.  Not quite the same as the wiring diagram would suggest but I think we can work with it.  The two outside wires are 12V, next two in are the earths then LO and Hi beam.

FWIW here's my voltage readings when measuring the two middle pins of the 6pin connector while unplugged from the HCU/LCU.  the readings were taken to a ground point (the triple clamp bare metal).

Here are the readings I got under the noted conditions.  The wires I'm referring to will be based on my photo and called top for the uppermost wire and bottom for the, well, next one down.  Hope that makes sense.  Note that these voltages might be slightly different on another bike depending on battery state/charge and are nominal.

Also note that I believe that the top wire represents LO beam and bottom HI beam based on the circuit diagram, looking at the plug, as per the circuit image above.

1. Key on - top = 0V; bottom = 12V

2. Key on and high beam switched to high - top = 12V; bottom = 12V (note that high beam indicator not lit)

3. Bike running - top = 0.12V; bottom = 13V

4. Bike running and high beam switch on - top = 0.15; bottom= 0.18V (note that high beam indicator is lit)

I believe that it's important to note that these readings are open circuit readings (unplugged).  The voltage readings may very well be different if taken from each of those wires while the plug is inserted into the HCU as circuitry within that black box could change those readings.  But at least this is known starting point on a working 2015 machine.  I'm in Australia but would imagine that the circuitry should be the same?.... always a bit of a question mark there of course when I see that the colour coding doesn't match what you have nor my manual?

Having said that and trying to interpret the readings above, I think it makes sense that (No 1) shows 0V on low beam (top wire) when engine is off and when it's running (No 3) shows a slight increase in voltage which could be enough (important to note that I'm assuming here without knowing the internal circuitry of the HCU) to trigger a sense circuit within the HCU which turns on the low beam LED headlight.

The 12V that is seen on the HI beam wire (bottom) must be being back fed from the control display HI beam indicator LED circuitry.  And really, this voltage can ONLY be coming from there as the high beam switch open circuits the feed from the ECU when in low beam position so the only connection is to the High beam indicator.

(No 4) both wires are virtually are the same voltage as the two wires are now for all intents commoned when high beam switch thrown.

Getting back to the question of whether it's a positive voltage or an earth that triggers the HCU on those two wires I'm now thinking based on the small amount of new knowledge that it is actually a 'pull down' signal from the ECU.  i.e. as the skipper suggested - something that amounts to an earth.

I can only assume that there is a similar driver circuit for that HI beam indicator LED that requires a 'pull down' to illuminate it.  i.e. it's not current driven directly from the ECU.

DISCLAIMER - N.B.  There have been some assumption made here by me and so I suggest you continue to seek further advice on the subject as I'd hate to be responsible for any damage caused to your machine.

FWIW I'm not an electrical engineer but have been trained in electronics (technician) and hold a diploma in same. This of course doesn't make me an expert.

Final words - If it were me, I'd check those voltage readings exactly like I did, on your bike and if they are not the same/very similar then, and if you didn't want to immediately start chasing the ECU feed wire for a problem and to prove without doubt that the HCU is working I'd cut the low beam wire at the back if the 6 wire plug and apply an earth momentarily to it to see if you can get that LO beam up - as I think skipper suggested?

If you do and it flashes up then it's definately in your wiring back to the ECU or the ECU itself.

Good luck and keep us in the loop.

[skipperT]

Nice post, @dazzler24 Good info.

I tested my bike as well.  

1- With the 6P connector UNPLUGGED, and bike RUNNING, moving the Hi/Low beam switch will ILLUMINATE the High beam indicator.  @cantin posted that his High Beam indicator never lights up. This again points to a fault on the ECM side of the circuit. (You noticed this too, Daz)

2- Checking the Voltage readings with 6P UNPLUGGED and ENGINE OFF, KEY ON at the 6P terminals of the connector returns ~12V on Y/Bk and Y depending on the Headlight switch position. Interestingly enough, they are OPPOSITE of what you would think (meaning, voltage present on the OPPOSITE wire lead that the switch is selecting, if that makes sense. This also agrees with your findings I think, Daz)

3- the most telling number that I found, IMHO - with 6P connector UNPLUGGED and BIKE RUNNING at idle, Checking Resistance with 1 meter lead connected to BATTERY GROUND and the other meter lead to Y/Bk for one test and Y for the other test on the 6P connector terminals gave me a CONTINUITY TO GROUND reading, meaning around 0.315 Ohms of resistance. Selecting the Hi Beam or Low beam position on the switch must be done and then probing the corresponding wire. I was trying to figure out a way to see if the ECM was indeed switching ground. If I'm interpreting the test results correctly it verifies further that the ECM provides ground on the Y/Bk and Y wires to complete the circuit.

4- The last thing I discovered is that I damaged a terminal of my 6P connector 😔. With everything connected back together, if I press the 6P connector Upwards gently while the bike is idling - my headlight flickers. So I've now caused a bad pin fit on one of the terminals.  I don't have my Safety Torx sockets at home (probably a T20 or T25 maybe?) nor do I have a super bright flashlight, so I'll have to repair this more properly down the road. I attempted to remove the terminal from the 6P connector after I found the issue but don't have the right pick, so it will have to wait. I was using the smallest safety pin I could find to probe the 6P connector terminals and not damage anything, but probably caused this when I attempted to REMOVE the pin for the Y/Bk wire from the 6P connector before giving up and plugging everything back in to make sure everything still worked. (that bugger is in there, but now it will HAVE to come out so that I can snug up the pin fit of that terminal.)

*sigh, facepalm*

anyway Cantin - trying plugging everything back in, fire up the bike - and gently push the 6P and 4P connectors upward and downward slightly (toward and away from the headlamp assy) to see if your headlight LEDS flicker to life. Who knows what testing or probing occurred before your ownership? you could also find a needle or very small safety pin and insert it into and gently remove it from the terminals in each connector. There should be a VERY SLIGHT drag upon removal if the pin fit is tight. 

and by small, I mean a thinner diameter than the smallest paperclip you can find. THAT small.

In summary - While bike is running at idle, If your Hi beam Doesn't light up (even with 6p unplugged), AND you can't see any resistance change on either the Y or Y/Bk wire when checking between it and ground (mind your LH Switch position) meaning that your meter stays at oL or 1 when in the ohms position. AND pushing gently on the 6P and 4P connectors when everything is back together and connected and the engine is idling produces no light output and you have 12V on the Green wires and good ground on black...

I'd find an ECM to swap to your bike to confirm diagnosis, or just buy one from a dealer or eBay, whatever your pleasure is...

let us know,

-Skip

Edited January 31, 2022 by skipperT

[dazzler24]

1 hour ago, skipperT said:

Nice post, @dazzler24 Good info.

I tested my bike as well.  

1- With the 6P connector UNPLUGGED, and bike RUNNING, moving the Hi/Low beam switch will ILLUMINATE the High beam indicator.  @cantin posted that his High Beam indicator never lights up. This again points to a fault on the ECM side of the circuit. (You noticed this too, Daz)

Agreed.

2- Checking the Voltage readings with 6P UNPLUGGED and ENGINE OFF, KEY ON at the 6P terminals of the connector returns ~12V on Y/Bk and Y depending on the Headlight switch position. Interestingly enough, they are OPPOSITE of what you would think (meaning, voltage present on the OPPOSITE wire lead that the switch is selecting, if that makes sense. This also agrees with your findings I think, Daz)

Yes, that's why I thought/deduced that that voltage was a backfeed from the hi beam indicator driver circuit (while we had an open circuit 6P plug) and not the ECU.

3- the most telling number that I found, IMHO - with 6P connector UNPLUGGED and BIKE RUNNING at idle, Checking Resistance with 1 meter lead connected to BATTERY GROUND and the other meter lead to Y/Bk for one test and Y for the other test on the 6P connector terminals gave me a CONTINUITY TO GROUND reading, meaning around 0.315 Ohms of resistance. Selecting the Hi Beam or Low beam position on the switch must be done and then probing the corresponding wire. I was trying to figure out a way to see if the ECM was indeed switching ground. If I'm interpreting the test results correctly it verifies further that the ECM provides ground on the Y/Bk and Y wires to complete the circuit.

It does indeed sound that way doesn't it. And I guess it only really provides a 'ground' on the single Y lead from the ECU as the HI beam when selected routes/commons that ground to the HCU HI beam input and that black box does its magic to turn on the headlight (high beam).

4- The last thing I discovered is that I damaged a terminal of my 6P connector 😔.

Aarrrgh!  Nooo!   It was a real %%$# to get a probe into those little holes and I had to dig around till I found my tiniest and pointiest probes to get a reliable connection.  I feel your pain.

With everything connected back together, if I press the 6P connector Upwards gently while the bike is idling - my headlight flickers. So I've now caused a bad pin fit on one of the terminals.  I don't have my Safety Torx sockets at home (probably a T20 or T25 maybe?) nor do I have a super bright flashlight, so I'll have to repair this more properly down the road. I attempted to remove the terminal from the 6P connector after I found the issue but don't have the right pick, so it will have to wait. I was using the smallest safety pin I could find to probe the 6P connector terminals and not damage anything, but probably caused this when I attempted to REMOVE the pin for the Y/Bk wire from the 6P connector before giving up and plugging everything back in to make sure everything still worked. (that bugger is in there, but now it will HAVE to come out so that I can snug up the pin fit of that terminal.)

*sigh, facepalm*

anyway Cantin - trying plugging everything back in, fire up the bike - and gently push the 6P and 4P connectors upward and downward slightly (toward and away from the headlamp assy) to see if your headlight LEDS flicker to life.

Who knows what testing or probing occurred before your ownership? Good observation/point!

you could also find a needle or very small safety pin and insert it into and gently remove it from the terminals in each connector. There should be a VERY SLIGHT drag upon removal if the pin fit is tight. 

and by small, I mean a thinner diameter than the smallest paperclip you can find. THAT small.

In summary - While bike is running at idle, If your Hi beam indicator - (you mean?) Doesn't light up (even with 6p unplugged), AND you can't see any resistance change on either the Y or Y/Bk wire when checking between it and ground (mind your LH Switch position) meaning that your meter stays at oL or 1 when in the ohms position. AND pushing gently on the 6P and 4P connectors when everything is back together and connected and the engine is idling produces no light output and you have 12V on the Green wires and good ground on black...

I'd find an ECM to swap to your bike to confirm diagnosis, or just buy one from a dealer or eBay, whatever your pleasure is...

And I hope @skipperT doesn't mind me adding - before doing an ECU swap, you could confirm that the ECU plugs are home properly/firmly i.e. snapped into place and/or that Y/B wire has not come adrift at the ECU or less likely, along it's path heading to the HCU - all mentioned in an earlier post.  The latter would require a continuity test from the unplugged ECU plug to the unplugged 6P LO beam wire with an ohm meter.  Hope all this helps.

let us know,

-Skip

Please expand the above to see comments.

[dazzler24]

6 hours ago, skipperT said:

my initial thought is that the diode is there strictly to protect the delicate circuitry in the instrument cluster.

Skipper I just checked and it is in fact the LED indicator.  It was hard to see in the attachment but it shows the little lightning bolt symbol indicating that it's emitting the light.  Oh and just checked further and it is annotated "61- High beam indicator light".

Which again makes me suspect that that 12V we were seeing is a backfeed from the unseen circuitry that drives that LED - IMHO.

[skipperT]

Good typo catch, thanks @dazzler24. And for the all the replies in my post(s) above. Great dialog, all making sense in my mind now  

I forgot that final point you made, and it’s a good one. @cantin before ordering an ECM, definitely check the pin on the the ECM plug to be sure it is secure and not damaged, and verify continuity on the Y/Bk wire between the ECM plug and Y/Bk at the 6P connector AND Y/Bk between ECM connector and Y at the 6P connector when the LH switch is in the Hi beam position (or is depressed to the Pass position).

the Y/Bk lead is located at pin #19 in ECM connector 1, which is the connector that is more rectangular than square. It has only 3 rows of pins, (as opposed to connector 2 which has 4 rows of pins). 

(I’ll attach a pic below this post shortly)

-Skip

 

[cantin]

9 hours ago, skipperT said:

Nice post, @dazzler24 Good info.

I tested my bike as well.  

1- With the 6P connector UNPLUGGED, and bike RUNNING, moving the Hi/Low beam switch will ILLUMINATE the High beam indicator.  @cantin posted that his High Beam indicator never lights up. This again points to a fault on the ECM side of the circuit. (You noticed this too, Daz)

2- Checking the Voltage readings with 6P UNPLUGGED and ENGINE OFF, KEY ON at the 6P terminals of the connector returns ~12V on Y/Bk and Y depending on the Headlight switch position. Interestingly enough, they are OPPOSITE of what you would think (meaning, voltage present on the OPPOSITE wire lead that the switch is selecting, if that makes sense. This also agrees with your findings I think, Daz)

3- the most telling number that I found, IMHO - with 6P connector UNPLUGGED and BIKE RUNNING at idle, Checking Resistance with 1 meter lead connected to BATTERY GROUND and the other meter lead to Y/Bk for one test and Y for the other test on the 6P connector terminals gave me a CONTINUITY TO GROUND reading, meaning around 0.315 Ohms of resistance. Selecting the Hi Beam or Low beam position on the switch must be done and then probing the corresponding wire. I was trying to figure out a way to see if the ECM was indeed switching ground. If I'm interpreting the test results correctly it verifies further that the ECM provides ground on the Y/Bk and Y wires to complete the circuit.

4- The last thing I discovered is that I damaged a terminal of my 6P connector 😔. With everything connected back together, if I press the 6P connector Upwards gently while the bike is idling - my headlight flickers. So I've now caused a bad pin fit on one of the terminals.  I don't have my Safety Torx sockets at home (probably a T20 or T25 maybe?) nor do I have a super bright flashlight, so I'll have to repair this more properly down the road. I attempted to remove the terminal from the 6P connector after I found the issue but don't have the right pick, so it will have to wait. I was using the smallest safety pin I could find to probe the 6P connector terminals and not damage anything, but probably caused this when I attempted to REMOVE the pin for the Y/Bk wire from the 6P connector before giving up and plugging everything back in to make sure everything still worked. (that bugger is in there, but now it will HAVE to come out so that I can snug up the pin fit of that terminal.)

*sigh, facepalm*

anyway Cantin - trying plugging everything back in, fire up the bike - and gently push the 6P and 4P connectors upward and downward slightly (toward and away from the headlamp assy) to see if your headlight LEDS flicker to life. Who knows what testing or probing occurred before your ownership? you could also find a needle or very small safety pin and insert it into and gently remove it from the terminals in each connector. There should be a VERY SLIGHT drag upon removal if the pin fit is tight. 

and by small, I mean a thinner diameter than the smallest paperclip you can find. THAT small.

In summary - While bike is running at idle, If your Hi beam Doesn't light up (even with 6p unplugged), AND you can't see any resistance change on either the Y or Y/Bk wire when checking between it and ground (mind your LH Switch position) meaning that your meter stays at oL or 1 when in the ohms position. AND pushing gently on the 6P and 4P connectors when everything is back together and connected and the engine is idling produces no light output and you have 12V on the Green wires and good ground on black...

I'd find an ECM to swap to your bike to confirm diagnosis, or just buy one from a dealer or eBay, whatever your pleasure is...

let us know,

-Skip

Well. 
I jumped ground from yellow/black and black wires going into 6 pin using two needles, and low and behold, the low beam flashed on.

I assume that because I read 12v on both yellow and yellow black (depending on HL switch) and no high beam indicator that, in fact, there is no ground being supplied by the ecu?? 

Does that then, rule out it being caused by a faulty connector between the harness and the ecu and only leave the option of it being a problem within the ecu itself?

If I need to exchange the ecu and lock set. How specific is the 2015 euro version? Could I by chance also find another model year? or does that have negative implication?

 

[skipperT]

Pin 19 will be somewhere in the middle row.  The number 1 circled in the upper RH corner designates pin 1, and then goes sequentially to the Left untill pin 11, and so on at the middle row (see the 12?) etc…

-Skip

Edited January 31, 2022 by skipperT

[skipperT]

36 minutes ago, cantin said:

Well. 
I jumped ground from yellow/black and black wires going into 6 pin using two needles, and low and behold, the low beam flashed on.

I assume that because I read 12v on both yellow and yellow black (depending on HL switch) and no high beam indicator that, in fact, there is no ground being supplied by the ecu?? 

Does that then, rule out it being caused by a faulty connector between the harness and the ecu and only leave the option of it being a problem within the ecu itself?

If I need to exchange the ecu and lock set. How specific is the 2015 euro version? Could I by chance also find another model year? or does that have negative implication?

 

Hey! There you go, progress!

-yes, that is correct. 

-probably, but also maybe not. It doesn’t rule out 100% that the lack of a ground being (not) provided by the ECM is due to an issue with the ECM itself. My guess is that’s what it is, but there’s a chance it’s a connection problem at the ECM.

look at it this way: you’re going to have to pull the tank to replace the ECM anyway, so do it now and check those wires for continuity and check the pin and plug also. If it turns out that it is the ECM the bike is already apart and all you need to do is install a new component and reassemble. Easy peasy.

-good questions: If you HAVE the Red Key (master immobilizer key) then I think all you need is ECM replaced and reprogrammed to recognize your keys. If you DON’T have the red key, AND your bike has the immobilizer type of ignition switch, this repair is going to be considerably more expensive. (Ugghhh). If you have standard black keys, and NO immobilizer ignition switch, ECM replacement is all that’s required. 

ECM’s from 2015 and 2016 FJ models should work. 2017’s probably won’t, or may work to an extent but not function correctly, etc. if you purchase a 2017 ECM it’s a dice roll, essentially.  (I’d be curious to know what you find if that’s the path you take!)

-Skip

[cantin]

2 hours ago, skipperT said:

Hey! There you go, progress!

-yes, that is correct. 

-probably, but also maybe not. It doesn’t rule out 100% that the lack of a ground being (not) provided by the ECM is due to an issue with the ECM itself. My guess is that’s what it is, but there’s a chance it’s a connection problem at the ECM.

look at it this way: you’re going to have to pull the tank to replace the ECM anyway, so do it now and check those wires for continuity and check the pin and plug also. If it turns out that it is the ECM the bike is already apart and all you need to do is install a new component and reassemble. Easy peasy.

-good questions: If you HAVE the Red Key (master immobilizer key) then I think all you need is ECM replaced and reprogrammed to recognize your keys. If you DON’T have the red key, AND your bike has the immobilizer type of ignition switch, this repair is going to be considerably more expensive. (Ugghhh). If you have standard black keys, and NO immobilizer ignition switch, ECM replacement is all that’s required. 

ECM’s from 2015 and 2016 FJ models should work. 2017’s probably won’t, or may work to an extent but not function correctly, etc. if you purchase a 2017 ECM it’s a dice roll, essentially.  (I’d be curious to know what you find if that’s the path you take!)

-Skip

Okay, I will pull the tank and test the above. Lets just hope its a bad pin. 

I have the digital tag on the key so I guess just the ecu is needed.

In the case that I need to replace the ecu and reprogram, Is reprogramming something that I can do myself? Or does it require specialized tools?

 

Edited January 31, 2022 by cantin

[dazzler24]

29 minutes ago, cantin said:

Okay, I will pull the tank and test the above. Lets just home its a bad pin. 

I have the digital tag on the key so I guess just the ecu is needed.
In the case that I need to replace the ecu and reprogram, Is reprogramming something that I can do myself? 

 

Great to hear that you have narrowed down the fault.

Definately thoroughly check that you have that continuity from ECU to 6P plug and that everything is seated correctly before going to the trouble and expense of getting another ECU though.  That would be a much cheaper fix if that's all it is!

If it ends up being the ECU I believe that reprogramming can only be done via an authorised Yamaha dealer - Skip?

[knyte]

That...

...was some pretty amazing troubleshooting!!

[skipperT]

2 hours ago, cantin said:

Okay, I will pull the tank and test the above. Lets just hope its a bad pin. 

I have the digital tag on the key so I guess just the ecu is needed.

In the case that I need to replace the ecu and reprogram, Is reprogramming something that I can do myself? Or does it require specialized tools?

 

What do you mean by digital tag? Can you snap a picture of it? I’m not familiar with that type of immobilizer set up… someone from your country may need to chime in, or you may need to contact the dealer for info. 

In Canada, no special tool required that I’m aware of, except that red key. There’s a specific sequence of key cycles on/off with the red key which puts the ECM into “learn” mode. The other keys are then “taught” to the ECM/immobilizer unit by inserting them and waiting until they are recognized. 

the process is laid out in the service manual for (say) R6/R1 and FJR1300, and super tens( I think?). Don’t recall if the R7 has it or not (probably). I think the cruiser models (venture?) use a different type of Fob system that I’m not familiar with….

-Skip