Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 22, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 22, 2022 Any further news on this @cantin? Did you ever get it resolved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buggy Nate Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) If it was me I would be wiring the headlight circuit up via a changeover relay that is triggered by the starter button. So when the bike is cranking headlights are off. Makes starting a little easier. The time spent with key and headlight on is minimal waiting for the fuel pump to prime. I always wire my harnesses up like this when I custom make them. Also saves having to buy a new ECM. Edited February 22, 2022 by Buggy Nate 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantin Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 Well I have returned, after a quick vacation and waiting for my replacement ECU to arrive. I have run into yet another Problem. So I have also returned for guidance. I decided to replace the ECU with a used one. As I figured this was the cheapest option. I found some online contacted the dealer/shop and he sent me one. I installed it and when I went to re register the code key ... I found that the bike won't reregister. At least not from the procedure explained in what I think is the correct service manual. Basically insert red key turn it on and wait 1 second for it to recognize the red key. When I do this, the immobilizer light flashes, and suggests a problem. We get turn over, but no start. Flashing immobilizer light shows a code of 54. I then found that reference in the reference table. Here is says a few reasons for why it gives this code and some Actions. But is there something I can do to make this work? Anyone have thoughts? Below are some pictures. Original 8591A-10. Replacement 8591A-60, Red key from original bike From what the shop I bought the ECU from he said the 10 vs 60 shouldn't be a problem. Does anyone have information that supports this? Also I retried my old ECU and the bike still fires right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buggy Nate Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 We have the immobilisers here in Oz as well. The wreckers always sell the ecu in a set with all the corresponding locks and receivers. They can be a major pain in the ass otherwise. You will need to follow the procedure to recode the old keys to the new ecu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 23, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 23, 2022 I can't comment on whether the differences between the two ECU codes matter or not but if we assume they are compatible for the excercise then code 54 seems to indicate that the re-registering hasn't happened or has been unsuccessful - "Codes transmitted between the ECU and the immobilizer unit do not match". Did you attempt the registering process with just the RED key alone? I ask because I have read (in the service manual) that having more than one key on the keyring (i.e. a black key) can cause potential interference while registering. By the looks of your photo the red key is on it's own but in the interests of finding a solution, have to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantin Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 Yea I tried with the red key with nothing near by. Still just get the immobilized reaction. No fuel pump priming just turning over. From what I understood, at least from the service Manual, If the ecu is defective one only needs to replace the ECU, But maybe this assumes a new replacement where it hasn't been paired to an immobilizer yet. Is it maybe ah option that I send it to one of the reprogramming guys to have it coded to the same as my Original ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantin Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 8 hours ago, Buggy Nate said: We have the immobilisers here in Oz as well. The wreckers always sell the ecu in a set with all the corresponding locks and receivers. They can be a major pain in the ass otherwise. You will need to follow the procedure to recode the old keys to the new ecu. I think I did follow the 'procedure' to try and recode. But without luck. Just throws code 54. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 23, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 23, 2022 35 minutes ago, cantin said: Yea I tried with the red key with nothing near by. Still just get the immobilized reaction. No fuel pump priming just turning over. From what I understood, at least from the service Manual, If the ecu is defective one only needs to replace the ECU, But maybe this assumes a new replacement where it hasn't been paired to an immobilizer yet. Is it maybe ah option that I send it to one of the reprogramming guys to have it coded to the same as my Original ECU? I'm not familiar enough in this area to offer any further advice and won't pretend otherwise so will now defer to those who are and who hopefully will respond here to your question/s. I'm just as keen to learn how these things (the immobiliser and ECU) interact. As a final note - I would have thought that any ECU, as long as it is completely compatible - and there's a question mark there (for me) with the 2nd hand one that you bought, to be able to be reprogrammed with the red key and that should be the end of it given the instructions in the service manual. Really hope you get this resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantin Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 10 minutes ago, dazzler24 said: I'm not familiar enough in this area to offer any further advice and won't pretend otherwise so will now defer to those who are and who hopefully will respond here to your question/s. I'm just as keen to learn how these things (the immobiliser and ECU) interact. As a final note - I would have thought that any ECU, as long as it is completely compatible - and there's a question mark there (for me) with the 2nd hand one that you bought, to be able to be reprogrammed with the red key and that should be the end of it given the instructions in the service manual. Really hope you get this resolved. I had a chat just now with someone from carmo.nl they are a flashing company and ecu repairer. They say its 1 model year too new for my bike , 'I shoulda listened better to Skip'. He said he could flash it and make it compatible, but then you also have to pay for the performance flash. He also said for round 300e. He can just repair the old ecu. He also said, when they are used, they are already paired with another immobilized and therefor have to be cleared (made virgin again). So if I find another older ECU he could do that for round 150e. (but the problem is these are difficult to find cheap). I'm interested what you guys think or have to add. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted February 23, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted February 23, 2022 We don't need no stinkin bages n immobilizers here! Sorry, couldn't help myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilanr1 Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 I have a working ECU for TRACER 900 2015 model with 2 black keys and 1 red key for sell. Update me if you want it. Thanks 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 23, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 23, 2022 I'm wondering, if you were always going to do a performance flash, if it would be worth approaching a flasher (yes I heard it too) and see if you couldn't come to an agreement that after flashing your existing 'faulty' ECU and the headlight issue wasn't resolved in the process that you would then purchase another ECU and flash it. Just a thought. You never know, a reflash may fix the original problem - but you'd have to get that agreement that you wouldn't have to pay twice to make it worth taking the risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 23, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 23, 2022 I just skipped back through this post to refresh what had gone on and there is still also the other option that others have suggested, if you just simply want to cut your losses, and that is to wire in a relay to cut in and activate those lights after the bike fires up to simulate what the ECU normally does. Not OEM but it would save you further pain and cost? Your call at the end of the day. Good luck and please keep posting so that we can all see how this is ultimately resolved. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 21 hours ago, cantin said: Yea I tried with the red key with nothing near by. Still just get the immobilized reaction. No fuel pump priming just turning over. From what I understood, at least from the service Manual, If the ecu is defective one only needs to replace the ECU, But maybe this assumes a new replacement where it hasn't been paired to an immobilizer yet. Is it maybe ah option that I send it to one of the reprogramming guys to have it coded to the same as my Original ECU? Well, shoot… my guess is similar to what others have chimed in, that the ECU you purchased and installed to the bike has the old key codes programmed. The chart in the service manual probably assumes a “fresh” ECM with nothing programmed. It would be worth seeing if you can clear the keys from the ECM you purchased and start fresh… there may be a procedure for doing that in the book, I’m not sure. If the ECM is truly for a 17 model, then yes I don’t believe it will work - there are several differences between the 15-16 models and the 17’s. But the ability to use an OBDII reader with adapter to read and clear codes is a big one. That is totally different programming than using DIAG mode on the dash to perform the same task on 15-16 models. I’m curious that the guy you spoke with said he could reflash it to work… hmm. But that’s his business and he’s more knowledgeable than I. ilanr1’s offer above may be a way out, conditional on it working in your bike and being able to learn his supplied red key to your bike. then maybe you could program your keys and be good to go. However, I think you’ll need the main switch to be plugged in from The Bike that the his ECM and keys came from, to complete the programming procedure. So that may muddy the waters more as well… need some more research on this option I don’t think your original ECM can be repaired with a simple flash, as I believe that something inside the ECM is physically damaged, not just software-damaged. But I could also be wrong about that… Eesh. Tis a pickle… -Skip 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted February 24, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted February 24, 2022 13 minutes ago, skipperT said: I don’t think your original ECM can be repaired with a simple flash, as I believe that something inside the ECM is physically damaged, not just software-damaged. But I could also be wrong about that… Eesh. Tis a pickle… Yes, I'm in two minds about the re-flash possibly fixing things and hence the rider to get an agreement with the flasher before going down that path. My thoughts/reasoning was that if the original ECU had already been flashed then there was the remote possibility that it could have not been 100% successful and has caused this headlight issue. If it can be confirmed that it is a stock ECU then I'd agree with the hypothesis that it's a hardware fault. One thing we can both agreee on is your 2nd point - Tis a pickle! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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