FJ09 2015 Clutch cable adjustment

[pilgo]

So , I need to adjust the clutch cable on my new to me FJ09 , as there is basically no biting point and far too much free play.

I've read the official Service Manual and it says to unlock the locking nut and turn the adjusting nut counter clockways , my question is should the adjusting nut be so far ' into '  the grooved part ( no idea what the official name for that part would be , sorry 😞 ) or should it be sitting against it , like the locking nut ? 

Apologies for being a numpty ,  but I'm no mechanic ( clearly ) 

Thanks in advance for the advice and sarcasm 😁 

[2and3cylinders]

First up at clutch lever, how far out is it adjusted now?  The lower adjuster is for coarse setting, upper for fine tuning.

Turn in upper adjuster to within 8 +/- mm first.

Loosen lower adjusters bottom lock nut about 3 turns. 

Then, keeping the lower adjusters upper guide nut "engaged" in its slot, with open end spanner (wrench) back-out (turn CCW) adjuster body about 3~4 threads; as it appears it's currently all the way in (bottomed out).  Tighten locknut.

You will need to play with upper and lower adjustments to suit your tastes. 

It helps to replace the non-reach adjustable clutch lever with an adjustable lever (I like the brake and clutch levers that also have adjustable length and pivot up in a tipover.

 

[dazzler24]

2and 3 has beaten me to the punch.... what he said.

And to answer your question about if that nut is sitting correctly  - the answer is yes, it should be sitting in the groove.

[2and3cylinders]

Daz, was my now edited instructions correct, clear and concise?

And how you and yours doing?!

Getting some good miles in?

Today we got up to 32/0 !

They say 42 on Wednesday!!!  Woowoo

You see my throttle cable lube mod post?

[whisperquiet]

I did the R3 clutch lifter mod soon after the purchase of my Tracer GT.  It did reduce the clutch pull and widened the engagement/friction zone of the clutch.

 

[dazzler24]

 

20 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daz, was my now edited instructions correct, clear and concise?

And how you and yours doing?!

All good here in the land downunder in between the rain and showers and mowing the lawn constantly (when it's mostly dry)!

Getting some good miles in?

No actually!  A few times but rain and hideous humidity has been fairly consistant over the last couple of weeks, even months!  So that has put a bit of a damper on things. (Pun intended.)  I'm planning for an escape ride tomorrow - weather is being kind and has cooled right off - 27C.

Today we got up to 32/0 !

My fridge doesn't get that cold!  I'm shivering just thinking about that temperature.

They say 42 on Wednesday!!!  Woowoo

Tropical!

You see my throttle cable lube mod post?

No, but I'll go looking now.

^Expand.

Looks good to me 2&3 and yes, you are always very thorough in your descriptions.  Not that I would ever question your capabilities/knowledge anyway 🙂

Here's my clutch adjustment/position FWIW pilgo.  You can see, as mentioned by 2&3, that your lower adjuster appears to be bottomed out and compared to mine it is.  I know cable stretch and all that but yours may need a tweek nontheless if you can't get the recommended play at the lever.

 

[2and3cylinders]

8 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

I did the R3 clutch lifter mod soon after the purchase of my Tracer GT.  It did reduce the clutch pull and widened the engagement/friction zone of the clutch.

Before I installed the Partshark slip-assist clutch kit, I tried the longer Bolt throw arm and a longer RA1 cable.  The former didn't help much and changed the angle of the dangle adding friction in the cable IMO.  The R1 cable was very difficult to adjust, and never was right.  When the V2 clutch cable came out with the gradual radius I immediately installed one not waiting for the strands to fray, ad have not looked back.  Even bought a spare to care on tours.  This all reminds me I need to lube the clutch cable.  Modified the OEM heated grip throttle cables yesterday to enable drip lining them from the top (see here.  

 

.

[2and3cylinders]

Daz, yours are one style of the adjustable levers I've also tried.  After my third set, I now have non-length & pivoting levers but click reach adjustable with a nicer leverage ratio.

Which FatBars are yours?  I finally settled on the Renthal Street Nakeds, trimmed 1 inch, drilled and tapped for the OEM bar end inserts, and packed full n solid with Crossman Copperhead BBs for added vibe control.

Oh, and I normally leave the top clutch adjuster threaded out 4~6 threads but with less than the specified free play like it appears you keep similarly; i.e., very tight for less free play and immediate entry into the friction zone.  Did you install a slip assist clutch too?  I can't remember if you have a later year that came with one.

I'm also a big fan of non-slip, glove wear reducing rubber lever covers (sleeves).  ProGrip makes them and cheaper ChiCom clones are available now. The now unobtainum original LeverSkins were the best.  You took them out of the sealed foil package and they were like slimey rubber tubes that were full length.  You struggled to slip them over the levers but once positioned and allowed to cure, they shrunk down skin tight and just worked!

[peteinpa]

Might want to check if you have the old style original clutch cable. If you do, at the very least order the new updated one.

Your clutch problems may be the cable breaking.

[2and3cylinders]

19 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

Might want to check if you have the old style original clutch cable. If you do, at the very least order the new updated one.

Your clutch problems may be the cable breaking.

I screwed up my prior reply so you have to tap "expand" to see it.

There I mentioned the V2 cable with its gentle radius and not waiting for the original V1 cable to fray.

But I didn't mention that a fraying cable could be the cause of his excessive free play.  Still, his Lower adjuster is bottomed out and needs to be backed out regardless.

[pilgo]

4 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Might want to check if you have the old style original clutch cable. If you do, at the very least order the new updated one.

Your clutch problems may be the cable breaking.

The new style clutch cable was the first thing I bought , even got it before I got the bike . Thanks for the tip anyway 👍

[pilgo]

4 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I screwed up my prior reply so you have to tap "expand" to see it.

There I mentioned the V2 cable with its gentle radius and not waiting for the original V1 cable to fray.

But I didn't mention that a fraying cable could be the cause of his excessive free play.  Still, his Lower adjuster is bottomed out and needs to be backed out regardless.

Exactly the help I was hoping for , thanks.

The bikes only done 3,300 miles 🤔

I'll have another go at it after work tomorrow,  as I need it feeling better for my first ride on her soon , as I'm finally doing my U.S M/C test this week 🤞

[dazzler24]

11 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daz, yours are one style of the adjustable levers I've also tried.  After my third set, I now have non-length & pivoting levers but click reach adjustable with a nicer leverage ratio.

Which FatBars are yours?  I finally settled on the Renthal Street Nakeds, trimmed 1 inch, drilled and tapped for the OEM bar end inserts, and packed full n solid with Crossman Copperhead BBs for added vibe control.

Renthal Street Naked bar (819-50) - no mods other than heavy bar ends.

Oh, and I normally leave the top clutch adjuster threaded out 4~6 threads but with less than the specified free play like it appears you keep similarly; i.e., very tight for less free play and immediate entry into the friction zone.  Did you install a slip assist clutch too?  I can't remember if you have a later year that came with one.

Yes, I installed the slipper in 2017 I think it was.  Mines the vintage 2015 like yours.

I'm also a big fan of non-slip, glove wear reducing rubber lever covers (sleeves).  ProGrip makes them and cheaper ChiCom clones are available now. The now unobtainum original LeverSkins were the best.  You took them out of the sealed foil package and they were like slimey rubber tubes that were full length.  You struggled to slip them over the levers but once positioned and allowed to cure, they shrunk down skin tight and just worked!

^Expand

[2and3cylinders]

 Daz,

To reuse the OEM bar end inserts to reinstall my KTM Adventure hand guards and RG Delrin nylon bar end sliders, I had to drill and tap the Street Nakeds; I shortened them an inch to match the OEM overall bar length (which is quite wide as it is, and 1 inch wider than 2018 and on).

I do like the slip/ assist clutch but primarily when cracking the whip on downshifts.

Do you upshift frequently without the clutch?

[pilgo]

Cable sorted , thanks for the advice Lads 👍