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24,000 Mile Valve clearance


SlipperyNiblets

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23 hours ago, estell said:

 

Skip, can you clarify how close is a tiny bit? Is the picture above a tiny bit, or is it off by one tooth? I recall that one of my cam marks was off by about as much as the picture above. I thought that was as close as I could get. If it was off by one tooth, then would the mark be off by much more than that?

Very tough question to answer based on the pic above, which is why I suggested to @SlipperyNiblets that the chain might not be smoothly interfaced on the crank gear, or that the crank was off by a C.H. Camchain wear and how perfect the marks were aligned when it was taken apart are other factors as well. Its honestly best to snap a pic BEFORE it comes apart  

IMHO, you really can’t be sure if it’s lined up until the tensioner is installed and the engine is rotated a couple times and then set to the K removal mark. At which point if you rotate one “click” in either direction, would your mark be closer or further away to being dead nuts on if that “click” distance were 1 tooth on the cam gears?

It’s tough to answer and I really can’t give you a definite. Next time I have an cp3 apart, I’ll snap a pic in various positions to clarify. The only way to really verify now is to pull the valve cover and check your timing.

if it runs as well as it did before you adjusted anything, it’s probably ok. 
-Skip

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10 hours ago, SlipperyNiblets said:

@skipperT I can wiggle the exhaust side of the chain a little bit, but cannot get the screwdriver blade underneath the chain. As it sits now the intake side of the chain does not move at all. How  tight should I set my manual tensioner? 

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That’s fairly typical on this engine. I don’t know how to set the manual tensioners as I don’t really believe in them and don’t have the instructions written down anywhere. I’m sure Ape has them on their website, or another member will post back here. I do recall that if they are a hair tight you’ll never really know except by the amount of material gets worn from the timing chain guides and if too loose, they are a bit loud. 

what I would do is set as tight as you can by hand, and then go a tad more (1/4 turn? ). Have someone slowly turn the engine over while you watch the cam chain on the intake side as it falls off the sprocket toward the tensioner. There WILL be a point where the tension loosens slightly. When you find that point, loosen the tensioner locknut, and screw in the adjuster by hand again till it touches the chain (it will be harder to turn by hand is the clue that it has touched the guide) then snug it again 1/8- 1/4 turn, and snug the locknut.  Start the engine in that position and tighten it a bit more (after it’s warmed?) if it’s loud.
If it‘s quiet, forget it and see how it is a full op temp coming down in engine speed after a quick rev to 6 or 7k or so. if it’s loose, it may “whir” or “clack” slightly esp on the excel. 

Bueller with a manual tensioner? Please chime in. 
-S

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

So for everyone, myself included, who checked them pre-24k...I did mine at 16k and they were slightly out.

 

I am now at 24k, do I need to check them again or do I base the 24k interval off of my last 16k check, and recheck at 30k?

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I checked mine at 18,000 if memory is correct.  Currently at 28,000 and just going to sell the bike LOL!  Seriously have thought about that and was going to check them after next long trip which would be about 36,000.  Don't have a sense of urgency but would probably make the 2nd check early as well - not wait 24 thousand after the 1st check.  My impression is the valves tend to go out of adjustment pretty early and then do not change much.

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Yamaha has came a long ways with their valves when I started riding street bikes in the 80’s they were notorious for needing adjusted. The viragos were horrible and I had a 400 special that needed adjusted seemed like every season. 

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