a1willson Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 This page explains negative switching and has a nice diagram. Worked for me with the yellow wire as the trigger. Paste into google: canter4x4.com/technical/installing-driving-lights/ K Thanks a lot I look forward to getting this setup this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member washufiddyfo Posted March 4, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted March 4, 2016 Kimmie, or anyone else familiar with this, Just wanted to clarify something with the negative switching. I don't have the dual-brightness lights, but was looking to install a basic set of aux lights, and just use the high beam switch, so that the aux lights always come on when high beams are on. I don't feel a need to switch them separately, so looking at your diagram, I'm assuming I can eliminate the "driving light switch" and just positap the yellow wire right into 86 on the relay? Any issues I'm overlooking with this setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1willson Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Kimmie, or anyone else familiar with this, Just wanted to clarify something with the negative switching. I don't have the dual-brightness lights, but was looking to install a basic set of aux lights, and just use the high beam switch, so that the aux lights always come on when high beams are on. I don't feel a need to switch them separately, so looking at your diagram, I'm assuming I can eliminate the "driving light switch" and just positap the yellow wire right into 86 on the relay? Any issues I'm overlooking with this setup? You're correct you don't need the driving light switch just tap the high beam and connect it to the relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tracerswed Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Hello boys. I also have a couple of Clearwater LEDs that I want to come on full power with high beam. Is there anyone who can explain in a simple way how to do it since English is not my first language…. Have look in to the negative switching diagram but need help. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJM Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 Where is this yellow wire located, under the nose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member washufiddyfo Posted August 15, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 15, 2016 So after staring at the boxes in my garage for quite a few months now, and a few life events delaying my install, I finally got some cool weekend weather where the garage wasn't 100 degrees, and took the opportunity to wire up my flush mount turn signals and the adventuretech light bar with the 18 watt nilights on each side. The motodynamic flush mounts were a breeze. I'll try to put those details in another thread more related to that topic. The light bar went on fine as well. For the yellow wire needed for high beam switching, I chose to positap it right by the connector to the headlight module. There are two harnesses, the big one has two yellows on it. I pulled that out and first tried the yellow with black stripe, and when tested it didn't work, but the yellow next to it with the brown bars was the one I needed. Set the tap to point up when the harness was clipped back in. I ran that wire up to 86 on the relay which I tucked under the windshield. Since I didn't have the right gray connectors I just positapped one of the accessory plugs for switched power and ground. Power went to 30 and jumped to 85 per the diagram below. 87 hot out to lights red, and the lights black came back up to the accessory ground tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member washufiddyfo Posted August 15, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 15, 2016 For the actual lights, I added some heat shrink over the exposed nut and a thick vacuum cap over the bolt to at least black out that part. We'll see how the nilights hold up over time and in the elements, they definitely aren't the most expensive, and it showed in a few areas, but they seem to be the best out of the cheap ones (wasn't ready to drop hundreds on these, at least yet) Here are a few pics with everything switched off, then with the ignition on, then high beam switch activated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripsaw Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Thanks, I am going hunting for that Yellow/brown wire. So where do I put the Red wire from the relay to low beam? Its hotter that Hates in the garage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJM Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Thanks, I am going hunting for that Yellow/brown wire. So where do I put the Red wire from the relay to low beam? Its hotter that Hates in the garage! If it's for power then run it to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripsaw Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Got the Darlas'working. Tapped into the high beam yellow/brown wire on the headlight module. Also, low beam on the green wire. Just have to clean things up a bit tomorrow-route wires, zip tie etc and good to go. Waiting on some more Posi lock connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcarnut Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Well, after much testing of wires, and finally a call to Clearwater Lights, turns out for the FJ-09's LED headlights, a 12V trigger wire solution is not currently available. For those not familiar with the Clearwater lights, they are dimmable which allows you to run with the lights at less than full bright, but with a relay, when you trigger the horn and/or high beam, they will go full bright. I use my Darlas primarily for daytime conspicuity with amber lens. The horn trigger still works so when I hit the horn I get full bright on the Darlas but no luck finding a high beam trigger for now. Clearwater is aware of the problem and is working on a solution. In the meantime the best alternative solution is to run Clearwater's white high beam trigger wire to a 12v source via a switch, which is what I ended up doing. This manually trips the relay and you get full bright. If someone has a better solution, please post! For those with other brand lights and simply looking for a 12v lead that leaves auxiliary lights off on low-beam and on with high-beam then yes, you can use one of the yellow wires coming from the headlight control unit (mounted directly under the nose for those wondering where it is), but this is simply a power source not a high beam trigger for the Clearwater Darla install. HTH SoCal 2015 FJ-09 Red of course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbk8245 Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 Hey where did you get those mounting brackets to mount at that area? Any installation tips? Did you purchase the wiring harness with the nilight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbk8245 Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 For the actual lights, I added some heat shrink over the exposed nut and a thick vacuum cap over the bolt to at least black out that part. We'll see how the nilights hold up over time and in the elements, they definitely aren't the most expensive, and it showed in a few areas, but they seem to be the best out of the cheap ones (wasn't ready to drop hundreds on these, at least yet) Here are a few pics with everything switched off, then with the ignition on, then high beam switch activated. Sorry was referring to this post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member washufiddyfo Posted December 18, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted December 18, 2016 Hey where did you get those mounting brackets to mount at that area? Any installation tips? Did you purchase the wiring harness with the nilight? Check out this thread for the details on the bracket: http://fj-09.org/thread/3214/adventuretech-auxiliary-led-light-bracket Made by @richlandrick, his site for the FJ-09 is here: http://www.adventuretech.biz/yamaha-fj-09.html Might as well pick up the mirror extenders while you're there too, they're great. A few notes above, some choose to get a harness and wire them up separately. I did not, as I wanted them to come on with the high beams, so I just bought a standard relay and relay socket and wired up per my above post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jann321 Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 my aux light negative supply line goes into 85. do i remove it from the relay socket and connect it directly to the battery (-) and connect the 85 to 30 of the relay socket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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