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beberle

Removing Fuel Tank

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  I'm removing the fuel tank to synch the throttle bodies. From what I can find in the service manual, there is no fuel shutoff valve and you have to pump the tank out 1st!?
  Any easier way of doing it? Plugging the fuel pump outlet?
 
thanks,
Brian

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There's no valve. The tank and fuel line have quick connectors. Once you release the fuel line connector from the tank, no fuel will leak from the fitting on the tank. A little fuel will spill from the line, however. Just be ready with a rag to sop it up. There's not much.
No need to drain the tank.

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Good to hear. Lots of trim on this bike, but it seems like they engineered it well. 
 
Thanks Bob

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I've read that the front of the tank can drop on the MT 09 when undoing the bolts at scratching the front of the frame, is this the same on the Tracer?

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Yes, but the tank usually contacts the frame when you are trying to put it back on and line everything up.
 
The front bolts can be removed in 2 different ways. There is one 4mm Allen head bolt on each side - if you take those out, the tank is still secured to a small mount on each side - which scratches the frame.
 
If you instead remove the 4 bolts with washers that require a 10 mm socket, then the tank is less likely to drop.
 
On the Tracer (FJ) I think we have a bit more padding which contacts the upper air box kid, so the tank is less likely to fall in my experience then when removing/installing a FZ tank.
 
-Skip

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Thanks for that, just need to be carful when I do the 6k service.

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What a pain! Finished synching the throttle bodies. Took at least 4 hours and this 'ain't my 1sr boondoggle' ;-)
  per the picture, you can definitely scratch the frame if you're not careful. The tank is meant to pivot on these two front mounts. I used a block of wood to brace the rear of the tank in order to remove the fuel and vent lines. 
  Once the lines are disconnected, lower the tank and remove the two front bolts (4mm hex). There's enough foam under the tank that it won't come crashing down on the frame. Just lift it straight out.
B992EA79-759D-4D4A-80E0-7C733C6CB74A.jpg
8B10D81E-4599-47F3-8094-EFF1F3821A51.jpg
9D76635D-0362-4D38-A3F2-49B0279843CA.jpg
 

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Also, the lower tank trim was tricky. The maint manual didn't help with this. There are metal L-tabs that hook the trim. You can see the tabs on the side of the tanks. The front of the trim is attached with a rubber grommet. The back with a 4mm bolt. Annnd, there's Velcro in the middle! 
 
Unbolt the back, pop out the front, pop the upper middle 'velcro', then you have to slide the piece down to disengage the tab. I bent one side trying to figure it out, but was able to bend the tab back.
 
B0537EA9-204B-40C6-8876-DFA08D37A281.jpg
 

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Do you really need to remove the tank to synch the throttle bodies? I haven't done the throttle body synch yet, but I plan to soon and I'd like to verify before I start. The video that is posted in the thread "Which sync tool?" (http://fj-09.org/thread/1911/which-sync-tool) indicates that you do not disconnect the fuel lines, but just tilt the front of the tank upwards. You need the fuel to run the engine anyway.

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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Yes.
 
Problem is, that both the "nipples" you attach to on the throttle bodies, and the adjustment screws - are both pretty well hidden under the airbox.
 
You could get crafty maybe with a pair of needle nose pliers and some crazy tiny 90 degree small screwdriver....but by the time you figure all that out, you could have taken the tank off and saved yourself a bunch of aggravation IMHO.
 
Pulling the tank is easy, and gives you room to work imo.
 
-Skip
 

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You do not need to remove the tank.  You need to remove the vent hoses, then just swing the tank 180 degrees around and set on the seats or on a towel placed where the seat was or on the passenger seat.  This worked on the FZ and on the FJ when doing the TBS at 600m.  You may have to undo the electrical connection.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  100,920 m

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..... Which is pretty much removing the tank, with the exception that you don't set it on the bench... but balance it on the rear subframe. If I read your post correctly.
 
By doing this, you also risk damaging an expensive plastic hose that carries high pressure fuel from the pump to the fuel rail. The hose is not as flexible as it seems.
 
-S

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You do not need to remove the tank.  You need to remove the vent hoses, then just swing the tank 180 degrees around and set on the seats or on a towel placed where the seat was or on the passenger seat.  This worked on the FZ and on the FJ when doing the TBS at 600m.  You may have to undo the electrical connection.
Yep, and I did undo the electrical connection to turn the tank. Then hooked it back up to start the bike. I left the high pressure line connected. It's flexible enough to turn the tank without causing any problems IMO.  
 

Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles

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